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Call me MR Bolts

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by az-k5, Dec 23, 2003.

  1. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Well I was out wheeling this weekend and sheard two G8 front shackle bolts (I had no spares). One on the passenger side upper and other on the driverside lower. I have 3/8 plate 1" longer shackles up front also. I now want 9/16" bolts with 3/4" .085 wall sleeves. Here is my question:
    Should I turn down a larger bushing of 1.500 od to a 1.125 od (this one has a .750 sleeve hole) or drill out the center of a my exsisting bushings from a .625" to .750" sleeve hole and just put the new sleeves in? (all bushings in reference are poly & for the upper and lower front shackle mount)

    I know ORD will be mentioned. I would love their bushing kit but want 9/16 so all spring bolts are the same. Does Watson offer a 9/16 bushing kit. I am aware of the 1/2" one.
    Thank you and any help along with runing jokes will be appreciated.
     
  2. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    My blazer has 9/16 Spring bolts stock for the springs, but the upper shackle bolts are still 1/2". I would also be interested in running a 9/16" bolt for the upper shackle bolts too.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    damn man, you're rough on stuff!
     
  4. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    He's not the only one with the problem. My buddy Chris that competed in TTC this year has a problem with breaking shackle bolts. Mysteriously he hasnt broken one in a few months, so I dont know.

    But Its front having crossover and with the wheels bound up in a tough to turn position the draglink acts as a torque arm and tries to move the axle away from the truck and breaks the heads off the shackle bolts.

    I think az-k5 doesnt have crossover so it sounds like he may have just killed bolts for some unknown reason.
     
  5. white-rhyno

    white-rhyno 1/2 ton status

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    Dont know if what i did is "correct" but i took the sleeves out of my bushing on the spring and the upper shackle and just slid a 5/8" bolt in there. Made a huge differnce. Once again a i dont think what i did is necessarily right but it works great. Just a thought.
     
  6. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    I'd drill it out. I think it would be easier (and cheaper) than trying to turn down a larger Bushing. Either way the outside area is the same thickness and your still ending at the same goal (3/4" sleeves).

    What are the shear points between 1/2 and 9/16? Was the one that broke greaseable?
     
  7. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    He's not the only one with the problem. My buddy Chris that competed in TTC this year has a problem with breaking shackle bolts. Mysteriously he hasnt broken one in a few months, so I dont know.

    But Its front having crossover and with the wheels bound up in a tough to turn position the draglink acts as a torque arm and tries to move the axle away from the truck and breaks the heads off the shackle bolts.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Last time I talked to him (a while ago) he said he was going to replace the bolts with larger ones and not run a sleeve. Maybe he got tired of breaking them and finally did it /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  8. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Dont know if what i did is "correct" but i took the sleeves out of my bushing on the spring and the upper shackle and just slid a 5/8" bolt in there. Made a huge differnce. Once again a i dont think what i did is necessarily right but it works great. Just a thought.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ding... ding...

    Matt... this is the way to go. Mike Arnold did this to his shackles at my house last night. 5/8" bolts in both ends of the shackle./forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    ...and get long enough bolts so that the shackle's not riding on the threads. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif

    Marv
     
  9. white-rhyno

    white-rhyno 1/2 ton status

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    Wow
    someone else likes my idea. I thought it worked great.
     
  10. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    did GM always use spring bolts slid through sleeves from factory ?
     
  11. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    That 5/8 switch sounds neat but doesn't that squish the bushing cause you no longer have a sleeve? If I don't tighten the bolt a whole lot to avoid squishing the bushing won't the nut back off (even with a locknut)?
     
  12. white-rhyno

    white-rhyno 1/2 ton status

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    use nylock nuts then tack weld them. Worked for me.
    i have brandbushing so they didnt squish out much.
    Brad
     
  13. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    That 5/8 switch sounds neat but doesn't that squish the bushing cause you no longer have a sleeve?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The OD of the sleeve is 5/8", so I don't think the urethane could tell the difference in the sleeve and a 5/8" bolt. Only thing might be that you wear out bushings faster due to sliding/friction between the bolt and the bushing. Mike made sure to coat the bolts w/ lots of antisieze./forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif


    [ QUOTE ]
    If I don't tighten the bolt a whole lot to avoid squishing the bushing won't the nut back off (even with a locknut)?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    It's been my experience that ny-lock will back off of a lot of stuff. Metal lock nuts usually hold, and adding a jamb nut can really help (if done right).

    I'd try it and keep an eye on bushing wear. At least your bolt breaking days would be over...

    Marv
     

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