Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Calling all Seal leak masters....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Dec 14, 2000.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2000
    Posts:
    3,238
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    I've got a pionion sela leak on the front, Need all the quality advise for that change. So I dont crush the crush sleeve any more so than it already is.

    And I've got T-fluid come coming from the rear of the T-case, subsaquintly getting slung all over the bottom of the truck. How hard, how much to replace the seals in the T-case, and should I go ahead and replace the chain? <font color=red>NP241</font color=red>



    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  2. dewey

    dewey Registered Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2000
    Posts:
    59
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    MA
    from what i understand, for the rear of the np241, just take the driveshaft out (carefully mark everything) the yoke should slide right out. be prepared, fluid is going to come out at you, so don't be right under it...
    pop the old seal out, and gently tap the new one in.
    line up the marks you made to put the yoke EXACTLY how you had it.
    same with the drive shaft, and your done....

    D.
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    both seals are a peice of cake to replace. Drop the drive shaft and pry the old seal out wipe it dry and tap a new seal in. you need to make sure it goes in even or it will make it out of round and it will fail early. Same with the pinion.
    On the pinion here is the deal. it takes about 150lb of torq to crush that sleave. It has a lock nut on it. Haynes says to count the number of turns...yeah right. When you put it back together use a ratchet as opposed to a breaker bar, get it as tight as you can without hanging on the ratchet or bracing for leverage. It will be fine.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2000
    Posts:
    3,238
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    Aiight!!! Thanks again Grim!!! I'll owe you a couple of cases by the time we get to Tellico!!! LOL!!!
    Merry X-mas. May the K5 santa visit with much presents.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  5. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2000
    Posts:
    1,530
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Temp. Ft. Walton Beach Fl. home=Tucson, Az.
    I am not doughting what you say about the crush sleeve, you just repeating information out of Haynes.
    And if it say's that it takes about 150 lbs./ft. to crush an already crushed crush sleeve, I question this,
    and I hope you will also.
    If you really what to do it right there is really only one way, use a torque whench, and mearsure before, replace
    the pinion seal, and measure again. Tighten the nut to give the same reading before, and after.
    Any thing else is a guess, and you may guess close enough, but if you don't is it worth it ?
    Good luck
    P.s. you will be measureing a rotating torque, not static.
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    The nut is a lock style.it is going to take some unknown torq turn it. With a regular socket wrench you can only exert about 90ftlb before you have to brace to get more leverage. You ask 95% of the ASC Mechanics if they used a torq wrench and Haynes method they will start giggling. Yes that is the textbook way to do it but nobody does it that way. Nothing wrong with doing it that way except this. The nut has 10-20 years rust and heat cyles on it and the bearings have wear and the torq it will take to get a reading is going to exceed what it takes once the threads have been cleaned out when you remove it. You check that torq and I can pretty well bet you will exceed 150ftlb to break that nut free. Same with any bolt. Once it's been there for a while if it's exposed to the elements your not going to come up with the reading it was originaly set to before the 10-20 years of exposure to the elements. Also unless you have owned this truck form day 1 whos to say that seal hasn't been replaced and has a different torq already. I personaly with consideration to wear and thing would not want to exceed 100ftlb on that nut. If we were able to rule out the friction from rust and the crimp on the lock nut my bet is the wear in the bearings would have that torq down to less than100ftlb.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  7. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2000
    Posts:
    1,738
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hesperia, Ca 92345
    ftn96 another idea on the t-case seal, is to jack up the back of your truck as high as you can- ooooooo! I just smashed my knee on the desk....... anyway, jack it up as high as you can so the fluid in the case runs to the front of the case. This should keep most of the fluid in the case and not on you!

    http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com
    Protect the land FOR the people
     
  8. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2000
    Posts:
    3,238
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    I tend to agree with you Grim. Alot of these torq ratings in the Haynes manual, don't take into consideration of the bonding and deterioration that these nuts and bolts under go through-out the years. Its like that adjusting sleeve for the upper ball-joint. It says to torq it to 50 lbs, hell it took almost that just to turn it. As well as the leaf springs to shackel bolts. Those "SOB" even after cleaning them up on a wire wheel they were just as hard to get back on as they were to get off.

    Blazzin91---- Great idea. It will already be jacked way up anyway. I've gotta take the shims out f my rear springs. The shims have my pinion pointin g straight at the T-case. SO my angles are way outta wack. Its funny though, the faster I go the less vibration, I would have though it would have been the opposite.



    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  9. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2000
    Posts:
    1,530
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Temp. Ft. Walton Beach Fl. home=Tucson, Az.
    I think you missed the point !
    Which is pinion bearing pre-load, thats the whole purpose of the crush sleeve.
    Have fun
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2000
    Posts:
    3,238
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Nashville Tn
    After talking to Grim, reading the Haynes manual and talking to everybody else, I have made up my mind what to do. Everybody had said the same thing except for how tight to re-tighten the yoke nut. The Haynes says 5 inch pounds more than it was to start with, Im assuming due to the rust and elements. However, I understand that the pinion bearing has to be under a specific pre-load. The bearing has been where it is for 10 years, and as long as I count the threads and get it somehwere close to the specified torq, I will be close. Beside, If it Shats itself it will be easier to convince my wife to rebuild the diff's.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     

Share This Page