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camoflauge, who has painted, it what paint to get ?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by R72K5, Nov 16, 2003.

  1. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    who has painted their own camoglauge on their rig ? what paint did you get and where from ? whats base color and whats next color after that to apply ? any good pics of homemade camo pickups to see currently ?

    the 83 k20 has issues with the body and the p/o completely sanded down the entire driver side fender and some of the driver side of hood down to bare metal so i have to do soemthing fast, the truck is a blue that i can never match and is a crap repaint anyways and truck has rocker rot and such anyways so it doesnt really matter too much but i think camo would be better than mismatched blues

    the truck would look very similar to the 80's longfleet 4x4 pickups with this done to it, the \M1008's





    thanks
     
  2. reeser

    reeser 1/2 ton status

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    go to walmart they have a good selection of krylon camo paint for like 2 bucks a can. that's the paint i used and it works great. my stooopid gallery is acting gay or i'd show you a pic, hopefully soon.
     
  3. reeser

    reeser 1/2 ton status

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  4. MontanaLifted

    MontanaLifted 1/2 ton status

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    If you want a good matte finish which every camo paint job should be you want to use a CARC paint just like Uncle Sam's boys use. It's thick enough you won't have to worry about low lying tree branchs on the trails.

    There are a bunch of paint companies that make this paint. The thing I would look for is "CARC" it's the type of paint. It's like primer texture only it seals off the metal instead of absorbing water like primer does.

    Depends on what type of camo you want depends on how you go about it. You can't mess up camo. If you want a desert camo start with the sand color and then add shades of brown. If you want the woodland camo start with olive drab and add shades of brown and black.

    ML
     
  5. big pappa b

    big pappa b 3/4 ton status

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    The PO of my K5 did it with rattle can from walmrt I believe. He didn't sand anything down...just sprayed /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I thought about painting it a different color but I've decided to leave it. So much easier to touch up and I'm sure it won't be too long before it needs touched up either /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    Pics are in my sig
     
  6. Judd

    Judd 1/2 ton status

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    I just got the local paint supply store to mix me up some in brown and forest green. The woman who worked there advised me to add some gloss to the paint. She said that the paint would last alot longer than straight flat. Maybe so but it sure as hell makes matching hell. Can't just buy a spray bomb to fix small stuff and have it look the same. O-well, big deally.

    It does look good, ended up being sorta a satin/semi-gloss once I washed it a few times with Greases Lightning. If I paint it again, I will go with straight flat.
     
  7. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    Here is a pic of mine when it was camo.
    [​IMG]
    I used krylon camo paint.
     
  8. DieselBurb

    DieselBurb 1/2 ton status

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    I work for a company that build the FMTV ( Army trucks ) and have been around CARC for a little while. I wouldn't use CARC for a couple of reasons:

    First, it's some nasty stuff. You need to wear a respirator or else it'll really mess you up. It has all kinds of carcinogens in it. Second, it shows every little rub. Like if you scratch it with your fingernail, it doesn't rub out.
     
  9. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    JeremyK5 hasn't chimed in yet?

    He bought out the tan camo color from walmart, the one down by him and the one here neither one carry the camo colors anymore. The ones at AutoZone are like twice the price as the ones at walmart. Maybe in other walmarts they still have them but not here. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    As a matter of fact, autozone does not carry the Mahogany Rust Cap Paint anymore either /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I need about 5 more cans (I guess that what I get for buying the first 4 from the clearence rack for a buck a can /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif)
    The grey hammerite rust cap paint use to be 2.69 and the last time I bought it they jacked the price up to 3.99 a can! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

    in the sig pic below the red/brown at the bottom of the second blazer is the rust cap mahogany paint.. I think it looks good. If anyone can find some in the clearence rack or know a place that still sells it drop me a PM /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    I have seen guys paint duck blinds with a OD base coat and make little leaf shapes with sponges and painted then leaves on. It gives it kind of a Real Tree type pattern. It looks cool but takes longer than just rattle can jobs.

    Maybe look at a boat shop that sells aluminum john boats. That OD paint holds up damn good on boats!
     
  11. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    You can get real creative here. I've seen guys cut out templates with leave patterns, cattails, branches and stuff like that. One of my favorites was Every time a guy broke a part he would hold it up to the truck and paint it leaving an outline of the carnage behind. it was kinda weird looking at first but after enough breakage it looked pretty cool.
     
  12. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    keeping from overspraying would be the biggest issue i think.

    when trucks were painted for military use who did the paint work ? GM ? or military ? anyone know exactly how they did this ?

    loks like first coat solid olive green primer, but i assume its a flat paint, they must use soemthing good because ic ant recall ever seeing a ruted through military truck, i cant remember for sure though, plus i only saw a couple 1008's and they were contact trucks, did see quite a few 1009's some were tan desert scheme and some were normal green scheme, springfield IL base still has quite a few '80's GM 1008 and 1009 trucks blazers jimmies in service still today.
    trying to find a good way tomake very similar paint scheme such as these trucks wear,

    ceguseman, that truck looks really cool

    i think it wouldbe impossible to make identical paint scheme as military without actually having the paint they use and equipment too, would be nice to make very similar though. somehow.

    and yeah if anyone knows any of this paint anywhere for sale then let one of us know, jlaughner and/or myself /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    thanks
     
  13. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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  14. JDBlazer454

    JDBlazer454 1/2 ton status

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    I have camo'd 2 different blazer's, both done with a flat rattle can enamel and my own pattern. The first one I did it over a weekend and it turned out okay but really was a learning process the 2nd one turned out much better. Best thing is to keep the pattern large and open with equal light and medium shades and keep the black or darkest color as a shading on the back side of the one of the lighter colors. Also freehand it I got better results that way. I did mine in what is called Urban Assualt (snow camo) and just bought whatever colors caught my eye and were readily available.

    I don't know what the military used but it was for sure flat and they did use a pattern because every truck was identical.

    Here are pictures of my 2 together:
    [​IMG]
    And the 2nd camo job I did:
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Stroked72Blazer

    Stroked72Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I have seen a few vehicles use realtree vinal to cover the whole thing. It looks the best IMO and is real tough to boot.
     
  16. MontanaLifted

    MontanaLifted 1/2 ton status

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    The paint the military uses is CARC. I don't know what the heck your talking about a fingernail scratching this stuff but it's hard enough to scratch it with a screwdriver on purpose. As for rubbing out any imperfections you might get from the trail that's what extra cans are for.

    As for carcinogens well that's the same risk you run if you paint any car. That's why body shops have a paint booth with a ventilation system and respirators. Since your probably doing this yourself just do it out back behind the barn on a not so windy day.

    There is no pattern for the military and no two are the same. A pattern defeats the whole purpose of camoflauge.
    I spend alot of time around military rigs from 1008's, 1009's, Hummers, Up-Armors, Dueces,Heavy Equipment, you name it.
    I've even seen where some Marines got into a little trouble when they painted a helo. Nothing wrong with the camo paint job other than the hid a naked lady silouette on the side of it as tall as the chopper was.
    It took a minute but once you eyes adjusted it was quite funny.

    I'll see about getting some photos of some camo jobs tomorrow around base.

    ML...
    /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  17. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    There is no pattern for the military and no two are the same. A pattern defeats the whole purpose of camoflauge.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That is not true for two reasons:

    1. There is indeed a pattern for each vehicle. Not every vehicle is painted EXACTLY the same, but they're painted quite close. Look at two Bradleys next to each other with a woodland camo pattern and they're almost exactly the same.

    2. A pattern definitely does not defeat the purpose of camouflage. The idea of camouflage is to take the dimension from an object with color to make it blend into the backround. The best example I can make of this is face paint. The idea is to paint everything that sticks out (cheek bones, nose) black because it appears to move those features backwards. You paint the shaded areas (under eyes) a lighter color like green to bring them forward. This turns your face essentially into a two dimensional figure and breaks up the outline as well, hopefully helping you to blend into the backround.

    The pattern is not what makes camouflage effective. Properly using colors to mask highs and lows in the vehicle are part of the deal.
     
  18. MontanaLifted

    MontanaLifted 1/2 ton status

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    I'll go with you on the highs and lows. So there for the light colors and dark colors tend to be in the same spot for a certain type of vehicle but as we agree no two are the same.

    As for pattern I was thinking that was in reference to a stencil of sorts. I know they don't use stencils or "patterns" for the spots.
    As for blending in if you stick to to much of an organized pattern you won't blend in. As well as highs and lows you also have to try to hide the silouette. There is definitely a science to it. Look at the new uniforms coming out for all branches of service.
     
  19. DieselBurb

    DieselBurb 1/2 ton status

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    Correct-a-mundo about having a set pattern. Somebody up in Ft. Belvoir got paid a lot of money to determine what pattern is the most effective. ALL of our trucks at the plant have the same pattern from front bumper to pintle.

    As far as regular spray paint having bad stuff too, you're right except that CARC is far worse for you. Besides, CARC is like a sponge. It soaks up water, dirt, and mud. We've had test trucks run miles up at Aberdeen, Maryland that have come back with a nice shade of red from the red dirt and mud up there.
     
  20. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    I just bought the cheap paint. I looked good for the first year. Now with retouches it's looks all layered and kinda crappy in spots. But I don't care. If I wanted a good paint job, I would done more then drop $40 on paint and tape to do it. I did white first, then gray and black. Touched up the over sprayed parts later on. I just used my hands to keep paint from going where I didn't want it. If you simply want quick and fast, then anything will work. I've redone it since this, but I am not home to run out and get a pic so you'll get the idea here....

    http://bbs.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/53-468642-CamoBeast.jpg
     

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