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can i make my front 10b shafts as tuff as D60 shafts?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by milspecjimmy, Apr 6, 2003.

  1. milspecjimmy

    milspecjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    i want to keep the 10 bolt on there to keep weight down, what are good shafts and u joints to buy?
     
  2. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    i guess you could do Warn shafts and CTM's but there come a point where Beef is Beef.

    it will never (IMHO) be as tuff as a D60. the weak link will be moved somewhere else.
     
  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    i want to keep the 10 bolt on there to keep weight down, what are good shafts and u joints to buy?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What do you plan to do with the truck. That little bit of weight is not a big deal. Like Zakk said even with Warn shafts and CTM's all you do is move the weak spot.
     
  4. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    If you are going to do that, i wouldnt put the CTM joints in there, Up grading the axle shafts is a good idea, but if you put them beefy ass joints in there, the weak link will be the Spiders, And/or the R@P, and it would be better to break a u joint then anything else on the trail, But as soon as you hear that u joint let go, Get off the gas right away or else you run the risk of Taking out the ears on the axle shafts as well, and the lifetime guarenteed shafts will not be warranteed if the ears are broken, only if the splines are broken, atleast thats what i am told. somone correct me if im wrong.
     
  5. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    As said in above post the spiders are the weak point. If you beef up the axles put in a locker. Even a lockrite is stronger than the stock spider gears.
     
  6. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    If you are going to do that, i wouldnt put the CTM joints in there, Up grading the axle shafts is a good idea, but if you put them beefy ass joints in there, the weak link will be the Spiders, And/or the R@P, and it would be better to break a u joint then anything else on the trail, But as soon as you hear that u joint let go, Get off the gas right away or else you run the risk of Taking out the ears on the axle shafts as well, and the lifetime guarenteed shafts will not be warranteed if the ears are broken, only if the splines are broken, atleast thats what i am told. somone correct me if im wrong.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    <font color="green"> I've broken the yokes on two Warn shafts, both of them were warrantied. </font>
     
  7. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    You could probably get the shafts and u-joints to hold up okay if you go with the Warn/CTM combo.....but in my opinion if you need that much strength than the rest of the axle (aka ring, pinion, carrier) will be stressed a lot also. Plus the cost of those parts could go a long way towards a Dana 60.

    Of course on the other hand, I don't think a 60 is necessary for moderate trails and reasonable size tires IF you can be a reasonable driver. I broke 2 front u-joints running 35's and a fairly tight front posi in about 3 months, but I realized what I was doing (tires turned and wedged in a rut while gassing it) and adjusted my driving style. You can eventually learn what you can and cannot do to your vehicle.
     
  8. Ronnie4wd

    Ronnie4wd 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I´m thinking of buying those axleshafts from warn, would a detroit nospin be the trick to make the 10bolt hold up or is it the death of my ring and pinion /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
    I know it would not be as strong as the 60 but would it be a poor mans 60.Next question how much are the axles.
     
  9. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    I think they are expensive enough to make a 60 look like a great deal.

    but that is just me, I broke 2 carriers on my d44 and called it quits
     
  10. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> OK, here's the rest of my story... I ran the Warns and stopped breaking as many shafts as when I ran stock shafts. The bad news was that I started breaking R&amp;Ps, and also broke the spiders in a Powerlok that had under 5000 miles on it. The powerloc is supposed to be one of the stronger l/s units, I didn't get a full locker since I was afraid of breakage it would cause on the 44. Do you really want the R&amp;P to be your weak link? I was also running the warn fuses in the hubs, so that's not going to save you either. Bear in mind that this happened to me while running 38s, with smaller tires it would probably be a different story. A beefed 10 bolt with 35s or 36s would probably do just fine.


    The other thing to look at is the cost of all this stuff. Warn shafts and a pair of CTMs are over $700, you add a locker to that and you're well over $1000. You could have gotten a 60 for that kind of money and just waited a while on the locker. I wish I had done the 60 in the first place, I wasted a ton of money trying to beef my D44 since I had convinced myself that the D44 could be plenty strong to handle what I do. </font>
     
  11. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    Is there anything in the warrantee agreement, that says, they wont warrantee the shafts if you broke them when your wheels were turned? I guess they can tell by looking at the shaft if the tires were turned when it broke. I have never owned warn shafts so i dont know....... but this is what i heard.......
     
  12. Ronnie4wd

    Ronnie4wd 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Thank you! Now all I have to do is go easy until I find a 60 (not so easy around here)
     
  13. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> That sounds pretty ridiculous to me, especially since if your wheels are turned you should break a joint. I have twisted one yoke and slayed another on Warn shafts, both resulting from joints that broke with the wheels turned. Warn warranteed both shafts, no questions asked. They didn't even ask for the old ones back. </font>
     
  14. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    nice, sounds pretty good...
     

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