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Can I run the 6.2 briefly without an intake manifold?

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by dremu, Dec 9, 2006.

  1. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Trying to chase down a diesel leak up top around the injection pump, and it'd be an awful lot easier to see what's going on down there, plus I'd love to not to have to reassemble the whole thing only to find out the IP's gotta come out and be rebuilt/replaced.

    Any takers on whether I can safely run her for 5 min with no intake in places? I'll blow the area off to keep leaves and crap and as much dust off as I can...

    -- A
     
  2. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    do you just me the air cleaner? yeah it would be ok
     
  3. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    No, the intake ... the intake is in the way, over all the plumbing. :( Go look at the 6.2, you'll see what I mean.

    -- A
     
  4. y5mgisi

    y5mgisi 1 ton status

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    I would have to assume so. Its not like theres any throttle blades or anything like that anyway. Just be carefull to not suck any crap down the intake ports of the heads.
     
  5. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Yeah, that was my thought ... might run funny, and be even louder :haha: ... but it'd be the only way to identify the leak.

    I mean, why is the plumbing UNDER the freekin manifold? And I'm STILL pissed about the metric hardware ... I can tell a 1/2" head from a 9/16" (5/16" from a 3/8" bolt) by touch with my eyes closed ... but 14mm just confuses me!

    -- A
     
  6. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    Like the UPPER & LOWER Intake Manifold :eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1::confused:

    I suppose it would run but I've never heard of anyone doing it:confused:

    I can't help but think the intake ports on the heads should be protected by something. Like those green kitchen scratch pads, maybe steel wool. Be pretty bad though if a steel wool pad got sucked into the cylinder:doah:

    Noisy? You bet! You have an exhaust port on each side to feed the EGR valve. Having exhaust & intake so close together might have an effect as well.

    I doubt you have a fuel leak located on the line and not at the connections and since it has about 9lbs of pressure you'd see a stream of fuel.

    If you do it let us know of the results:bow::bow:
     
  7. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Lower intake manifold? Didn't know there was two pieces... I'm talking about the spider crossover thing. :dunno:

    I'm getting a pretty good flow of fuel somewhere up top, as it's running back, down the bellhousing, and coming off the transmission onto the ground.

    I could just drop the intake/crossover/whatever it's called in without bolting it down, but it'd still be a PITA to see down there. I'll keep y'all posted.

    -- A
     
  8. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, the upper is the top, or cap, lower is the spider;)
     
  9. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Well, crap. I replaced all the rubber lines under the spider, new hose clamps, etc.

    Now the heater core is leaking in the cab. :doah: Unrelated, but dammit ... I noticed the fuel leak after replacing the transmission ... it never ends! :(

    -- A
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2006
  10. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If it makes you feel better I have the same kind of luck with my truck. I parked it in July when Colby came and got the old tranny and T-case from me. It sat for a few months until I had time to swap in the NV4500/203/205 and Alcan's.

    I felt that I had been very thorough putting it all back together...yet it wouldn't start the first time I tried. :doah: Replaced a couple of GP's, the GP relay and still had problems. I re-wired a plug in the circuit because wiggling it caused the GP's to work again...then eventually found the lug at the power distribution block on the firewall was loose. :doah: :doah:

    How about this one...my first drive I find the steering seems spooky. My second drive I get Death Wobble, which i haven't had to deal with for three years. I check caster and find it has 10.5 degrees positive caster. So, I shim the front diff 4 degrees...steers better but I still have DW. :mad: I add a washer to each king pin spring and drive it again and right away can tell the springs are bound. No death wobble, but steering is still scary with no return to center and a lot of wander. I order and install new bushings and king pin springs...seems OK. Temp drops to -12 C and we get 20" of snow and I start getting death wobble again...but too cold to do anything about it.

    I end up adding a washer to the new springs and bushings...death wobble finally gone. Steering still seems a little weird though. I check the Toe-in and near as I can tell I now have 5/8" toe-in. :mad:

    Getting the toe-in set up is today's project...if you care I'll update later. The weird part is that when I parked it it drove and steered great. 70 mph down the freeway with one finger on the wheel, no wander. I think the new king pin bushings changed my toe, because nothing has changed with the tie rod and the TRE's are still good.

    The worst though is that when I rebuilt the NV4500 I overlooked adding a thin skim of RTV to the input shaft retainer housing...so my brandy new tranny weeps gear lube between the bell and tranny. I'll have to unbolt the works, slide it back and seal it up.

    Rene
     
  11. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Yeah, but at least you changed the springs, which could change steering. Last I checked the transmission didn't affect fuel delivery, which doesn't affect the heater core :doah:

    Still, I feel your pain. We love these trucks, right? :rolleyes:

    -- A
     
  12. BKinzey

    BKinzey 1/2 ton status

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    Heater core is simple if you don't have AC. Maybe 30 minutes?

    If you do consider cutting the rubber / plastic outer cover off the AC. That's what most mechanics do. Otherwise you'll have to pull the condenser:doah:

    If you don't want to slice consider removing the fender:crazy:

    If time is no problem, 2 guys about 3 - 4 hours, there is a bolt you can't see under the AC and blocked by the fender on one side and the inner fender from the front, that's the time waster. Not a problem if you have access to a 5 year old that's good with a rachet:haha:

    You remove bolts off the back but the heater core is pulled from inside the cab.

    It's fun!:rolleyes:
     
  13. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    woah! that is a bunch of frustrating stuff! what a bummer that the weather turned on you too. :( wish i were able to give you a hand. :)
     
  14. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I have run one without the intake bolted on for over 30 minutes before. It doesn't hurt a thing as long as it isn't sucking dirt. I will tell you that it is LOUD! It sounds kind of funny too.

    Mike
     

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