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Can I save some $$$ with this C/V shaft idea???

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Troopie's Tonka, Nov 5, 2002.

  1. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, so I am about to drop $400+ for a brand new C/V rear shaft. After a few beers and searching the web for the lowest bidder, I ran across a picture of an H-yoke. Never knew what in the hell it was before today. This sparked my imagination. Ok, so who cares if I am totally mechanically stupid and before I bought my Tonka I only knew how to fill the gas tank, at least I am trying to learn right? so anyway... Ok, maybe you all have thought of this before, maybe you already knew, or maybe I am totally stupid for thinking this, you have my permission to laugh either way. Can I buy a high-angle H-yoke for 50 bucks (1330 I think for my 1/2 ton), buy another Ujoint, take my driveshaft to the welder guy to shorten it an inch or so, and poof, I have a C/V shaft? only a few hundred bucks less? This may be a remedial question, but look, I am already pissed that I have to pay some guy 200 bucks to cut off and reweld my spring perches, just tryin to save a buck. thanks guys.
    oh yeah, the shop guy says that once he cuts off my spring perches, which are custom made blocks, they won't be good to weld back on, that once you put heat to them they are no good. He says I have to put new spring perches on @ $45.. is that true? or is he seeing me coming from a mile away?
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. Tweetysuarus

    Tweetysuarus 1/2 ton status

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    $400! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif WOW! I only paid $525 for both lengthened Front & Rear! Rear was converted to CV style setup! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Bill
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You need to find another welding shop to do the spring perches for you. $200 is WAY too much and no, you don't need new perches. They aren't made of hardened steel or anything special. 2 minutes with a grinder and the welds along the edges of the perches are gone. Smack 'em sideways with a 4 pound sledge and they pop right off. Set the new angle, then weld 'em back in place. Even if you do manage to totally screw 'em up, a PAIR of new perches costs about $20. Run! Run away as fast as you can! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  4. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    unfortunately for me, Sandy's 4X4 is the only shop around that an do it, i don't have the resources for welding, and the machine shops that i went to can't to anything that is on a vehicle.....pretty much i am screwed huh?
     
  5. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Sounds like it's time to make friends with a weldor! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif How far are you from Atlanta? It might be worth the trip to drag the axle over to visit and buy a few beers for Grim-Reaper or Depdog. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  6. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    haha, i bought the axles from depdog. wish i would have known that they wouldn't work without welding or i would have asked him to help me out. but now the axles are on, and i only have front wheel drive. 2 hours is a long trip in front wheel drive.....DOH!!!
     
  7. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    ok, here we go.....
    ANY WELDERS NEAR AUGUSTA THAT CAN DO BETTER THAN 200 BUCKS?????????????? HELP, DON'T LET MY B-HOLE GET RIPPED UP LIKE THAT..HAHA. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  8. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    oh hey wait, no one ever answered my question. can i just get an Hyoke and make my own c/v shaft?
     
  9. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Ouch! How much do you need to rotate the perches? Is it beyond what you can fix with angled shims?
     
  10. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    You can make your own C/V joint but I think that the H comes striped right? you still need the ball and socket that go in between the U joints that equalizes the angles.
    I know a little bit about them because I rebuilt mine.
    I think it would still be easier, to buy a new one and at much less than 400.
    I got mine from Tom Woods driveshaft $295 shipped. There is also Jessy here The Drivelineman, I think his is better and cheaper. plus you would get a discount if you are a member.
    As for your axle, do you have any tools? If you have a grinder, you can take of your pad yourself like they gave you instructions above then take it to him and ask him to weld it.
    That would lower your cost a lot.
    If you don't want to do that, try and give it a couple of days maybe someone close to you willl respond.
    By the way if you are within 2-8 degrees off you can do with a shim.
    I used an 8 degree shim on mine, it works fine.
     
  11. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    nah, i already have a 6 degree shim in, and it is about a hair above parallel to the ground...just by looking, i am guessing that i need about 30 degrees.
     
  12. CooknwithGas

    CooknwithGas 1/2 ton status

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    Go to Lowes and buy a wire-feed welder for $250 and do it yourself. Grind off the spring perches and re-locate them. You will need the welder for other stuff anyway. Trust me, you will wonder what you ever did without one. I use mine all the time on little stuff that would be impossible otherwise. I saved over $250 on tailgate parts by welding repairs instead of ordering new parts from LMC.

    You can learn to weld with a wire-feed welder - just do a little research and a little practice on scraps.

    About your driveshaft question - I think you may have some balance issues if you just have someone cut and weld your driveshaft. Maybe.
     
  13. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Just like cooknwithgas said, if you are ready to work on it to save money.
    I did that, bought me a wire feed welder and I do my own welding, you start with an investment, so you start by breaking even but every job after that is cheaper.
    Wire feed is so easy, I gave Bill (tweetysaurus) a 5 min lesson and he was welding like a Pro.
    I even have a Video that will teach you how the pros work.
    That reminds me I should give it to Bill, Hey Bill....
     
  14. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks...note to self-buy a welder. That is next on my wish list. hmmm before or after the winch? By the way, found a guy that will do it for a hundred bucks. That is a lot cheaper than the 4X4 guy. and about making my own C/V shaft, a guy at a driveline place talked me out of it. said you have to put some stuff in the Hyoke, then balance some other things, and that the yoke i have at tcase won't work with c/v, need different yoke..blah blah blah...so I guess my idea is out the window along with $295.. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif oh well, i guess i am learning little by little every day. But thanks for the help guys, and I will take your advice on the welder.......one day
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  15. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif oh boy oh boy oh boy oh boy....I found a welder...a FREE welder. Well, it just so happens that I married into a redneck family...no offense anyone.. All four of my wife's brothers weld. One of them is going to hook me up Monday..WOOOHOOOk and another one works at some welding place and has access to that tubing stuff pretty cheap, so maybe soon I will have a little car runner over-er bumper that I want. alright alright....Tonka will be on the road, and in the trails, hopefully by monday...can't wait!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  16. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    Is this what you are talking about . [​IMG] I think this part would work for us don't see why not would be close to how the front is set up just no flange. [​IMG] [​IMG] It is 140$ for the CV but still cheaper than 300$
     
  17. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, where do you find those? Are they supposed to include the ball assembly that is in the center of a normal double cardon joint? Would that work if it was just 2 u-joints?

    Mike'
     
  18. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Without that ball joint in the middle it would flop around.
    Mine was shot so when I was rebuilding the CV I discarded it and tried it, it wasn't working the way it should, so I put it back even worn out it did better than nothing.
     
  19. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I thought of your C/V idea a couple years ago and when I posted it on here, somebody said that they already tried it and that there wasn't enough clearance. Of course my idea was to use the parts from a front driveshaft, which is already C/V.

    You need an H-yoke, the ball and seals and two of the special U-joint made for C/V's. This really would be kind of weak, though. It's OK for the front, since you only use it in 4WD, but in the rear it will see 100% tranny torque.

    I still think it's a decent idea if the parts can be obtained cheaply. It might require some grinding for clearance, though, which brings up strength and balance issues. It seems to me it's like $50 to rebuild a joint anyway, and it's a real pain to get it all lined up right, so you wouldn't want to be breaking them all the time.
     
  20. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    If you add up the cost of the H, the balls and U joints without the work envolved and the ubes and balancing, you will find out it's the same if not more.
    I have never bought a lift kit, or any kit for that matter, I fabricate everything, and I tell you I bought the driveline new, because it was cheaper.
    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
    If you ask people about me The ones that know me, I am cheap, and I tell you it was cheaper to buy them.
     

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