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Can't decide...DIY beadlocks and wheel width

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 6.2Blazer, Jan 27, 2006.

  1. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I want to upgrade to beadlocks (tired of blowing beads) and plan on getting a DIY weld-on style kit.

    My current wheels are steel 16x10's and tires are 13/38-16 TSL's.....they can call them 13" wide if they want but they are definitely on the narrow side. I would like to stay with 16" rims because I don't have to grind calipers (Dana 60 front), and I don't want to buy new tires at the moment. I do plan on getting new tires in the future and hopefully a little wider ones (even the 39.5x13 Iroks show 2" wider C.S. width then these, and who knows what will be available in the future).

    Total $$ amount is a concern!

    Anyway, the typical weld-on beadlock (inside the lip style) will add 1-1.5" to the rim width, making the already too wide rim even wider. This is my concern with putting them on the current 16x10's. I do understand that the beadlock should resolve some of the issues, such as beating up the outside lip of the rim on rocks, getting mud/dirt/rocks wedged in the bead, and of course the debeading issue. Total investment for parts would be relatively cheap (beadlock kit).

    The other option is buying new 16x8 rims (cheapest steelies I can find), and then the weld-on beadlocks. IMO, this would make for the ideal rim width of about 9-9.5" for just about any width tire in the future. The issue is that buying a new set of rims will at least double the total investment $$. A couple hundred $$ is something I'm willing to spend IF NECESSARY, but would prefer not to.....if you know what I mean.

    So what is everybody's opinion on this?
     
  2. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Weld them on your 10" they don't seem to effect the mounting width that much. I have the 16x10 DIY's welded on mine. You can see them in my sig links. Just dissregard the thornturd tires and picture 42" iroks on them:wink1:
     
  3. 78Buford

    78Buford 1/2 ton status

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    I'd get the 16x8's & run them stock for a few rides. You may lose interest in beadlocks after running a narrower wheel. (I used to have the same tires, as 6.2Blazer) on 16x8's and never popped a single bead.

    Another issue with having the wide (for the size of tire) wheels is the inner bead. I know that it is fairly rare to completely lose the inner bead, but it is fairly common for the tire to pull away from the bead in one place, lose air, and re-seal. With 16x11's of 16x11.5's, you'll be stretching the carcas quite a bit.

    On the last club ride I was on, a TJ with bling beadlocks lost air from the inner bead pulling away on both passenger side tires...several times. Mike Scott had the same issue at Wellsville last summer.

    If you buy the new 16x8's for around $220 with tax & shipping, I'm sure you could get $75-$100 for your old 16x10's, even if they aren't new looking. You'll have the issue at hand resolved (blowing beads) and a better wheel width (IMO) for the future if you choose to run beadlocks on down the road.

    Also...think of all the chicks gathering around the Blazer when they see that it has a new set of wheels on it. :D

    Roy
     
  4. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I guess another issue that was not mentioned is that I like the overall width of the tires/wheels the way they are. They just stick out from the body enough to keep the sheetmetal away (well, most of the time) from dirt banks and rocks. The 16x8's with the same backspacing would suck the tires 2" further inboard on both sides and make the sheetmetal the widest part. I know it's not exactly a show truck anymore, but that is a concern.
     

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