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Carrier Bearing Problems D60 Need Help.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BlazerBoy, May 7, 2001.

  1. BlazerBoy

    BlazerBoy 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys I tore down my Front D60 for a little rebuild before I put it in the truck. When I tore it down I noticed that one of the side carrier bearings has been spinning. It doesnt need to be pressed on any more, with a little pulling you can pull the bearing right off. The shims underneath the bearing have been all heat stressed and distorted outta shape. The axel has always had full time hubs, I wont be putting in a locker for another year or so (low funds). I have been thinking of putting a new bearing and shims and getting manual hubs, So it would only spin while I am wheeling and Plowing. I am not sure what possibilities I have, I dont have the money for a locker right now. I was wondering if anyone knew where I might get another carrier for a front D60? Or is there anyway to possibly fix this. Any Advise is welcome. thanks

    BlazerBoy
    http://generalblueballs.coloradok5.com
     
  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well there is a couple things you can do. First is buy a new carrier and bearings. That would be the best fix but it's is about $100. The next best is replace the bearings and maybe a new set will be tight enough not to spin. You will have to replace both sides with bearings that were made the same time. They will be about as close to the same off set as you can get. Running the old bearing on one side and a new on the other your more likly to have lash problems and possibly damage the gears. The last being the redneck way. carrier is damaged already. Take a punch and put a bunch of dimples where the bearing sits and hopefully it will lock it down to keep it from spinning.
    Reagardless of what way you go about fixing it your should at the very least check the gear pattern and make sure it is close to what it is supose to be. You can use some heavy white lithium grease and it will work alright so you can see the pattern.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  3. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    A new carrier is really the only way to fix it right. I have seen some people hammer small dimples in the carrier with a punch to keep the bearing from spinning, but that is the cheap way to go. If you're going to buy a new carrier, you might as well get a locker while you have it torn apart, if you were planning on running one. That way you wouldn't have to set up the gears twice. Just my .02.

    BIGJ
     
  4. BlazerBoy

    BlazerBoy 1/2 ton status

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    yeah I bought the whole rebuild kit to replace all the bearing and seals. I plan to run a locker but I am affraid of running into problems when I plow. Wont my turning radius be affected?? Plus I am not sure I can afford one at this time. Thanks

    BlazerBoy
    http://generalblueballs.coloradok5.com
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Locking the front will make the turning radius worse especialy on slick surfaces. LS will be better for keeping the turning radius but even they after a few feet may cause the truck to push. Also a locker in the front raises the possibility of blowing the u-joints big time. With plowing where you will be going over dry spots I personaly would not lock the front. Your running to much or a risk of being full lock on the steering and hitting dry pavement when the u-joints are their most vulnerable. Open carriers are not that expensive. That would be the way to go. I really don't care for ARB's but if you have to have a front locker I would say that would be the best choice. You can leave it open till you really need some traction and can pay attention to the surface your on and turn it back off. Unfortunatly I don't have a real high opinion of these lockers. I have seen a bunch break. Most of the failures I have seen I feel are ALL due to the same thing. The housing is aluminum and since it contracts and expands at different rate than the Steel ring gear the bolts and housing boltd get loose and it litteraly falls appart. Now ARB started out making these just for Toyota's and Nissans. Much lower powered trucks that also weight a good bit less.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Anyone heard when/if the OX Locker will be available on a D60? Beats ARB IMO.
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.oxtrax.com/lockers.htm>http://www.oxtrax.com/lockers.htm</A>

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     

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