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Carrier Bearing questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by zach78k5, Feb 25, 2004.

  1. zach78k5

    zach78k5 1/2 ton status

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    I was brought my blazer to the shop to have them check a few things and the guy thinks I need new carrier bearings. What is involved in changing these. I assume I need a puller. After I remove the carrier and change the bearings, do my ring and pinion have to be rebalanced or anything. From an earlier post I got the understanding that carrier bearings could be done at home with the proper puller. Also, how much should I expect to pay for a new set of bearings? Thanks.
     
  2. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    I just did a carrier replacement the other day and basically just remove the carrier and i took mine to a machine shop and they removed and installed the new bearings for like $30. A little pricey i think, but hey, i didn't pay for it. After new bearings were in i just reinstalled the carrier with all the other stock stuff, like the spacers that fall out with it and it is runnin fine with no noise. As long as you don't change your gearing, you are ok with a bearing change. Just make sure it's both bearings and races that usually come with the bearings. The new bearing we picked up were only like $12 each.
     
  3. boz42

    boz42 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    i would check the backlash after replacing the bearings to be on the safe side. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  4. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    1) You should call Randy's Ring and Pinion and take their advise (they'll be happy to give you tech help for free).
    2) If you don't have a bearing splitter and press you will need to take the carrier to a machine shop to have the old bearings removed and the new ones put on.
    3) IMO, you should at least check your backlash to used gear specs and make sure you have good carrier bearing preload (there isn't a real way to measure carrier preload in our application, but The folks at Randy's seem to imply that you should err on the side of higher preload, so make sure the carrier feels nice and tight after you pound in the shims) Your old shims SHOULD give you the proper preload and backlash; just make sure you make note of which side each shim came from (VERY IMPORTANT!); also make sure the carrier bearing clamps go back on the side they came off.
     
  5. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Checking back lash afterwards is a good idea, but not totaly required- If you put it back together exactly the same way it came apart. You'd also need to have or find a dial indicator to check it. Not a common tool. Keep track of the shims that come out when ya pull the carrier. Make sure they go back on the side they came out of. Thats the most important. Torque the bearing cap bolts back to spec and you'll be fine. What axle are ya working on? I haven't had a 10/12b rear for a loooong time so I can't really remember much about them. I know a D44 has the shims between the carrier and the bearings. They don't come off till after you pull the bearings, so it's alot easier to keep track of them. I think the 10/12b rears have the shims between the end of the carrier and the housing- sometimes when ya pull the carrier out, the shims can fall out on the ground/floor and mix themselves up. If that happens, you will need to reset backlash. It's good idea to have someone else there to catch the shims from one side as you pull the carrier out.
     
  6. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    If you are just swapping bearings and reusing the same carrier, you can get away without checking backlash. If it is the frontend, backlash isn't as important anyway cause it is not used as often( at least not on a street driven DD). In a perfect world the backlash should be right on but IMHO its not imperative that it be perfect.

    I would recommend paying a machine shop to remove the old bearings and press on the new ones. I posted questions a few weeks ago about pulling bearings and after reading replies decided to try to pull the bearings myself. I spent $20 on a puller that I couldn't get to work and ended up spendin $15 to have my machine shop do it anyway.

    Also, just curious, why does yuor mechanic seem to think you need new carrier bearings? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Seems a lttle odd to me. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  7. zach78k5

    zach78k5 1/2 ton status

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    Well, the rear end is deffinitely making some noise when driving. I thought it may just be wheel bearings or possibly carrier bearings. I have looked at the teeth and they look good, no cupping or harsh wear at all. The mechanic quoted me $400 to do the bearings just for labor and when I asked how much the bearings would be he said he wasnt for sure but around $300 more. Plus he wanted a bunch more money to do the wheel bearings which are easily accessible once the carrier is out. I am pissed. What a bunch of BS. I find out the bearings are like 40 bucks and it cant take more than a few hours to to the carrier bearings if you have a puller right there. I have been taking my cars to this place for years and as of late they changed management. They were good to me before. I am done with them. Just a notice. DONT GO TO A&I AUTOMOTIVE IN SNOHOMISH WASHINGTON. I plan to write a nasty note to ownership over there.
     

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