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changing pinion seal on FF

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Aug 13, 2001.

    is there anything different about changing the pinion seal on a ff as compaired to a 12 bolt? aside from needing a big ass socket! can i use the ol count the number of threads showing trick?

    <font color=blue>Striving for K5 world dominance</font color=blue>
     
  1. come on, guys. i know there are lots of FFs on this board. someone has to have done this. if its a stupid question and i should already know then by all means, tell me i'm a tard! just gimme something!

    <font color=blue>Striving for K5 world dominance</font color=blue>
     
  2. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    No, you are not a tard!! [​IMG] [​IMG] I am!! [​IMG]

    Ok, to change a new seal into the FF pinion, you can do it 2 ways:

    1. Mark/scribe the nut and pinion and then break the nut loose while counting the number of turns to keep track. Once the nut is off, get a puller tool to pull the yoke off the pinion. Its tight! Once the yoke is off, inspect it for wear around the sleeve where the seal rides. If its ok, take the old seal out and install the new one. Put the yoke back on and tighten the nut back to the mark/scribe you made. Try to keep it right on the line you made, but dont go 'less' or 'under' the mark. If you go over just a hair, you will be ok.

    2. MY WAY: Remove the pinion carrier support. Break the nut loose. Pull the yoke off and then the seal. Inspect everything and reinstall a new seal. Throw the yoke back on and locktight the nut and impact the nut back on. Get an 'inch lbs.' torque wrench and turn it to check the 'pinion bearing pre-load', which needs to be checked while turning the torque wrench and getting to the 5-15 inch lbs. reading. Do this with the pinion carrier support OUT of the axle housing. If your torque reading is not quite to the 5-15 inch lbs., keep tightening the nut and checking with the torque wrench until the reading says 5-15 inch lbs. Once the torque reads between those numbers, throw the carrier support back onto the housing (keep the shim in the proper place) and torque the support bolts to 65 ft. lbs.

    <font color=blue>Daddy told me while learning to pee......"if you shake it more than twice, then you are playing with it!!!"</font color=blue>
     
  3. thanks, wes! exactly what i needed! i think i'll have to do method 1 as i don't have an inch lbs torque wrench.
    ok, more tard questions- should i have or borrow an inch lb torque wrench, how do i remove the pinion carrier support. or to be more tarded- where the hell is that? is that the 6 bolt cover just behind the yoke or is it inside? obviouslly i need to get to know my FF a little better. i haven't done a damn thing to it sense i got it except change the oil. thanks again!

    p.s. did you get your spring plates?

    <font color=blue>Striving for K5 world dominance</font color=blue>
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    When you look at the 14FF from the front of the yoke, you will see the 6 bolts that hold the 'yoke housing' to the differential pumpkin. You can remove those 6 bolts and pull out the pinion carrier support. Becareful when doing this so you dont lose or mess up the shim that is sandwiched between the support and the housing. You need to reuse this.

    <font color=blue>Daddy told me while learning to pee......"if you shake it more than twice, then you are playing with it!!!"</font color=blue>
     

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