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Cheapest way to hydraulic steering?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Oct 7, 2003.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    What is the cheapest way to make a ram assist steering setup? It's been a while since this was discussed, seems like the topic has fallen off the face of the earth lately.

    I'm thinking I might try this if I can do it cheap enough.
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    Drill your steering box, buy an 8" ram and some hoses from a farm supply place, make your own tabs. I've heard that it can be done for well under $100. Personally it was worth it to me to buy a complete ready to bolt on kit for $400. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  3. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I drilled and tapped my aluminum in the steering box. Weld a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum to the face of the piston cover, then drill and tap it for your desired size of fitting. Then remove the adjustter cap and drill and tap it as well. I can take pics if you want.

    That takes care of the box, now you need a ram. Buy the ram and lines from WTO - they have a good setup. You could just weld tabs to your existing tierod and housing for the ram mounts. Or check with Shaggy and Greg72, they have a pretty good clamp setup too. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    Def. tap your own box like Mudzer and Shaggy said but go to Northern Hydraulic and buy the dual piston ram for like 60 bucks and weld your own tabs...itll cost MAYBE 200 bucks...

    pretty cheap if you ask me

    Later
     
  5. earl87gta

    earl87gta 1/2 ton status

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    Piret4x4 has the how to drill your steering box out and you can buy a 2in ram just like the redone in the produst review for $57 dollers at at the tracktor supply store the lines are from 15 to 35 depending on how long. I priced avery thing and it only came out to like $95 dollers to do it my self using 1/4 steel to make the mounts out of. The most expensive part will be deilling and taping the steering box if you dont have the tap and dye set to do it with. Ive been thinking abought buying a plazma cutter for a project Ive been working on and start making some of these parts for us cheap guys that want to do most of it on are own.
    Earl
    Earl
    Earl
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Damn...$100 is exactly what I was talking about. Post up some links!!
     
  7. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    how does hydraulic steering hold on at highway speeds or everday driving? i know if you get to big a ram it would turn slow but how big of one would you need for 36's anyway/


    69k5
     
  8. earl87gta

    earl87gta 1/2 ton status

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    The tech artical on the ram is not thier any more it use to be. I will see if I can dig up pics.
     
  9. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    check this out

    diy steering

    pump mods

    links are courtesy of jstevenj in one of my previous post

    69k5
     
  10. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    I have under $100 in mine...

    Tapped Caps from thebigdaddyof2 for trade... forgot, do I need to get one of those "cheap ho's from the city" to give you a hummer Todd? /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    I bought the ram including lines from Billy Ray for $75 - Thanks again BR! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I used a piece of Radiator hose to extend the top of the reservoir for several reasons. A little more capacity, plus I needed access to the pump to fill it, and my OBA mount/compressor is in the way. I also added a cooler for extra capacity and cooling.

    Now, I have about $170 in the front diff cover with ram mount and $50 or so for the tierod block and $90 for the tierod. These mods weren't necessary for Hydro Assist, just did them when I was upgrading.

    I'll post pics.
     
  11. earl87gta

    earl87gta 1/2 ton status

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    nothing at all is done a whay with here is the link for more info:
    http://www.coloradok5.com/hydroassist.shtml
    If you look at the first oic of the kit the chevy II kit I was going to use that same ram I mean exaxctly the same brand modle every thing was only $57 or $59 from the local tracktor supply. and lines 24 in were like $15 and 36in was $25 so if you drill the steering bow with tax and every thing plus the $5 in scrap steel you will have just a liitle over $ 100 for the same parts. If I get time I will go back tomarrow and double check that if you would like.
    Earl
     
  12. earl87gta

    earl87gta 1/2 ton status

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    Here ya go I just called northern tool here and this is what I got.
    Chief 2in 16 in stoke 63.99
    chief 2in 10 in stroke 56.99
    cheief 2in 6in stroke 44.99
    Norther 2in 8in stroke 44.99
    I think the 10in ine is probly the best to use but if 8in is enough then I would go with the northern we will need some one that has hydraulic steering to mesure the amount of travel so we can find out with one would be the best.
    36in hose $9.29
    30in ose $8.29
    24in house $7.69
    my truck with 6in of suspention lift and 36 in tires I used a heter house and mocked up how long of a hose I would need it came to 29 in so the 30in hose would be for me but I will most likely use a 36in for bigger tires and room to strech under flex.
    90 degree fitings are 5.49 you will need at least 2 but I would get four.
    that comes out to $97.53 for every thing exept the mounting tabs I can get the steel for that for less then $5 and cut and drill it my self.
    Maby Ill put a few kits together and sell them if I did depending on shiping I could probly get a kit to your door for 250 unless shipping is crazzy for them. the extra 150 would be for brackets and packaging plus the shipping. what ya think.
     
  13. Mobile_Mechanic

    Mobile_Mechanic Registered Member

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    The 2" is for bore diameter not shaft diameter, correct?
    I've seen the Chief hydraulic cylinders with
    2" bore
    8" stroke
    1.125" shaft diameter
    Closed pin center to center 20.25"
    $49.99 at northerntool.com item #9008408
     
  14. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I'm probably gonna tap my own box and get ram and lines locally. Going with 37s, with cooler, extra fill tube and pump mods hopefully it will steer responsive and cool.
     
  15. earl87gta

    earl87gta 1/2 ton status

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    Yap thats it 2in bore 8in of travel. An in should work I mesured the travel from lock to lock and it was only 3in you need twice that to make it work 6in of stroke so an 8in stroke would give an extra 2in of travel to work with. this is with a D44 I dont think a D60 would be that much diffrent.
    Im sopose to get my plasma cuter and mig welder next week so if you guys need me to make the mounts let me know or I can do a compltet kit for you. Im gooing to try and put one on my truck this week and take some pics. If you guys think you may want me to build extra stuff then pm my and let me know.
    Earl
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Wow, I'm getting exited now. What size tap will I need for the lines? Do they use NPT? All I'll have to do is drill/tap my steering box (looks like it can even be done ON the vehicle, install lines, weld up the ram, and I'm good to go?
     
  17. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Wow, I'm getting exited now. What size tap will I need for the lines? Do they use NPT? All I'll have to do is drill/tap my steering box (looks like it can even be done ON the vehicle, install lines, weld up the ram, and I'm good to go?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    no, you should take the box off. lots of metal shaving going inside the box would be bad.
    you can tap the top where the worm gear is adjusted and the front. i have been advised to weld up some more aluminum to the front cover and then tap it out. not sure if im gonna do it or not, but i think i will.
    Grant
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    And use a regular NPT tap?

    I need to replace my power steering pump anyway, so this is cool. I'll cut the stupid lines since they're all rusted anyway, replace them and the pump, remove the box, install the brace, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif It's going to be a fun winter.
     
  19. Orange Crush

    Orange Crush 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Im in the process of doing this myself. I got a chief 2 inch bore by 8 inch stroke cylinder for 59 bucks locally.The fittings I got locally at Napa.For the box the fittings were 1/4 inch NPT to hydraulic flare.About 7 bucks a piece at Napa.The fittings for the cylinder wereabout the same price. Two hoses 4 foot long with 90s on both ends were 20 bucks a piece.Im gonna make my own brackets for mounting the ram.The worst part that I see is using a ram with this physical size.Its huge.Its like the one in the tech writeup posted earlier.I would suggest using a smaller size ram because this thing is a pain in the ass to mount. It takes up alot of space. So Ill have about a buck and a quarter invested not too bad. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  20. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    We tapped mine at 3/8" NPT and I bought a 3/8 NPT - 6 AN 90 ELL and installed them in the aluminum.

    If you have someone to weld the extra aluminum to the front piston cover - so it will be thicker... You can remove it and the cap on the top - drill and tap them without removing the box. Here's a tip - If you dont want to use the piston to force the front cover off (after removing the snap ring), use an 1/8" drill bit covered with bearing grease. Drill very very slowly into the center of the cap. The bearing grease will grab almost all of the shavings, keeping them out of your steering box. Use a slide hammer with a screw on the end to remove the cap. It will leak a bunch of fluid out so be prepared. Removing the top is a no brainer!

    Thing with drilling out the box casting itself. You really need to remove all of the guts out of the box to clean it afterward. Cast taps easily, but you will definately get metal shavings in there.

    The "Aluminum Cap" method is just as effective, but is better in a sense. It allows adjustability in the ram. Meaning, I installed the caps and bled the ram and took it for a drive. Well upon hitting the pavement, my truck never would run straight down the road. It was like driving with the steering of a go kart - very twitchy. I grabbed some tools and adjusted the pitman shaft adjuster to "loosen" up the box a bit and it is now fine. Not sure if you can do this with the tapped steering box setup - can anybody verify this? Hey Matt Hodges - give us some tech!

    Again, don't mess with the cheaper ram in 2" bore - go with the WTO unit, it is very well made.
     

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