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check engine light

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90K5, Feb 23, 2002.

  1. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    my check engine light has been coming on a lot recently, usually after hard acceleration, or freeway driving. It goes off after a few minutes, and i started carrying my code scanner with me. It came on, and I turned the engine off, and scanned the code, but all I got was code 12, which means everything is fine. Any idea wha tmight be wrong? Thanks

    90K5
     
  2. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    My mom had a 87 GMC Safari van with a 4.3 v-6 and anytime it went over 55 MPH the check engine light would come on. I think it had to do with the oil because it loved to burn it,LOL.

    It kinda follows along your post too.
    Under hard acceleration the oil moves to the back of the pan, on at freeway speeds you may be a little low to keep the amount of oil in the pan. And then when you shut it off the oil all goes back in the pan so the code would be fine at that time. So to start trouble shooting i would check your level of oil first.. I'm not one for reading codes or anything hi-tech(..yet[​IMG]..I do have plans....) Hope this helps.





    <hr></blockquote>
    What do you mean, Where did I get it??...I <font color=blue>BUILT</font color=blue> the damn thing!!
     
  3. 1BAD88

    1BAD88 Registered Member

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    I had that same problem it turned out to be a bad map sensor but mine just went on when I took my foot off the gas .I replaced it and it never came on again.......

    1988 k-5 blazer 5.7
     
  4. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Oil was the first thing I checked, and it was completely full. Any way I can test the MAP sensor?

    90K5
     
  5. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    my truck used to do that when id punch it, and itd stay on till i cut it off. It would give me code 43 (if i remember right) and i replaced the oxygen sensor and it was fine

    This is Chevy country and on a quiet night you can hear a Ford rust.
    This is your brain "CHEVY", this is your brain on drugs "FORD"
     
  6. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    my truck used to do that when id punch it, and itd stay on till i cut it off. It would give me code 43 (if i remember right) and i replaced the oxygen sensor and it was fine

    This is Chevy country and on a quiet night you can hear a Ford rust.
    This is your brain "CHEVY", this is your brain on drugs "FORD"
     
  7. Chevit

    Chevit 1/2 ton status

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    I think it is a niffty little invention that will get the less mechanicly inclined to take there rig into the dealer and get charged big bucks for nothing. got water, got oil, got tranny fluid, good to go!!!!

    84 K5, Crate 350, 700r tranny, 3.73 rear, 32 11.50 15, Q-jet
     
  8. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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  9. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Just the light. as soon as I shut it off to read the codes it goes away though...and last night I did a lot of freewa ydriving and it didn't come on, so maybe the problem is gone.

    90K5
     
  10. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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  11. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    il low? not getting oil to the pump and light goes off?
    i dont know. i dont have a check engine light
    Grant

    take me drunk, i am home
    www.geocities.com/seventy4blazer/parts4sale.html
     
  12. I've got a 89 K5 blazer and I changed the vacuum switching solenoid for the egr valve, the O2 sensor and checked the vacuum lines. The dealer said the vacuum solenoid gets replaced the most in the EGR circuit, but I changed the EGR valve and my light quit coming on. I almost pulled my ADS Super chip out, thinking that might cause a EGR code. The EGR code is 32 and my SES(service engine soon) light would come on at highway cruising speeds.

    Later,
    Doug

    4 wheelin's not a job, it's an adventure!
     
  13. COOTER

    COOTER Registered Member

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    If you get in yor truck and turn the ignition on without starting it,you can tell if you have stored codes if the check engine light stays on untill you start it.also the haynes and chiltons manuals both tell you how to test almost every sensor.It would almost be cheaper for you to replace every sensor than take it to the dealer.
     

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