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christmas list

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 69K5, Oct 26, 2002.

  1. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    ok everybody. its time for christmas list. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif my birthday is also right before christmas. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif i want a 6 inch lift. all i want to run is 35's. all my running gear is half ton and i dont do rocks. so what would i need outside of a liftkit other than break line extensions? I want to use that napa break line #. im thinking driveshaft extensions and gears? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif. what kind of price am I looking at? would i have to do that with a 4" lift? should i go for springs in the rear or do blocks. I am very seriously considering doing the echobit route. i dont want to get beat to death. this is my daily driver. this is my one big christmas/birthday present. they will be happier this year. last year it was the blazer itself. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    thanks /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    69K5 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
    nathan
     
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    If you get 35's most of them measure around 33".
    I would think you would do better with a 4" lift.
    My truck is hard enough to get into (and it only has a 4" lift and no body lift) I wouldn't want a 6" lift on a DD.
    That being said you might have to trim a bit off the "fang" on the front of the front fender to get it to clear. The rear should be fine (it would be best if you move the rear back like 1" to center the tires but that might mean having to get your d-shaft lengthend).
    DO NOT GET RANCHO SPRINGS!!!!! TOO STIFF!!!!
    If you get a 4" lift get a 2" drop pitman arm
    If you get a 6" lift get a 4" raised steering arm.

    Be warned 73- rear brake lines don't work on our trucks (but the front ones do).

    What gears do you have in it now?
    Do you have a auto or manual?
    If auto do you have a tranny cooler? (if not get one)
    If you have 3.73 gears you might get by without regearing but IMO 4.10 would be better.
     
  3. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    i have too many to list.my new tires are at the top of it.witch i need soon because my 35's are bald.i have a 4 inch lift and no body lift and do not rub with mine.id go with procomp 4 inch rear springs personnally.they flex alright and ride nice on the road.plus you can get the pair for under 300 shipped.i think mine were 289 with tax and shipping to my door.they also relocate the axle with an offset center pin so you dont have to do any other mods such as a off center spring perch or anything.i dont know what my front is because it was on there when i bought it.im thinking rancho because they are really stiff and ive heard that they are supposed to be.id like to replace these with something with a lower rating spring.stay away from blocks if you like to use the skinny pedal alot.mine busted the center pin and spring pack fell apart from the axlewrap of having the lift blocks.hope santa brings you all you want for chrismas. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  4. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 6" lift and 35's. I haven't had a problem with rubbing yet but I also haven't done any kind of off-roading (yet) where it might. I'm guessing that the lift is a ranch lift with blocks in the back. I'd like to someday switch to something better with springs in the back, but the $ aren't there yet.
     
  5. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    Triaged
    sorry it took so long to respond. What is a DD. when you say hard to get in and out of how tall are you just out of curiosity. I am fine with truimming the fang but i dont understand what part to trim. I want to move the back axel back an inch. i never noticed till someone pointed it out here. now it bugs me. that will be later though unless i have to for the lift. the 73 break lines are those the ones that match the napa # ? My drivetrain is as follows 350 (slightly modified) TH350, NP205 D44 Front, 12 Bolt rear. Everything seems to say 3.73. i wouldnt swear on that but i am almost positive.

    thanks /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    nathan
     
  6. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    I think in the rear I am gonna go with the echobit shackle flip thing. for the front do you think heavy duty fronts or softride style? I hope you get everything on your list to! /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif what does the chuliso mean in your name?

    Bouncytruck
    I dont think i wioll have a prob with rubbing. i only play in the mud so its less likely.

    thanks

    nathan
     
  7. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    if you are keeping your stock springs(i would not just because they are probably worn out like mine were)i would maybe go with the 2inch lift rear springs and a softride 6 inch front lift.this shoud give you pretty good overall flex and a nice ride.then if you want to put larger tires on later you wouldnt have to by anything else.maybe like a 2 inch body lift or something.if you are keeping the stock rear springs a softride 4 inch lift with the shackle flip rear should keep you about equal on lift height.somebody correct me if im wrong but from what i gathered this is the way you would go /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  8. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    i think that i am going to do a 4 inch with the shackleflip. and then just put on front springs. my rears are worn out. i thought i might look for a better set in the junkyard. i currently have 2 " blocks under the rear for leveling. i might not need these with the shackleflip for an even ride. i will just have to check it with the top on and see. i dont mind the stinkbug look when itys topless. i have a viking winch on the front. woulde i need hd springs with the added weight. viking is an industrial winch company that went out of business in 1978.

    thanks again

    nathan
     
  9. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    DD = Daily Driver
    I am 5'11" (But have short legs /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif )
    I have a 4" lift and 36" swampers. It gets a little old getting into and out of it all the time because of tight parking spaces around here (have to watch putting a dent in someones door)
    I also don't like having a high center of gravity. It makes it harder to handle and more likely to roll. I will never lift mine any higher (in fact if anything I might lower it some /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif )
    I don't use my blazer as a daily driver so maybe I am not the person to ask.

    On the fender trimming just have the tires put on and you will know what I am talking about. I could hardly get into my driveway after I got my 36's (which measured about 35.75" when new). For the back tires my 33's rubbed with a 4" lift when I was offroading /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif You might want to add to the list some zero-rate add-a-leaves from ORD. You can move your axle back with them but don't forget you might have to have the driveshaft lengthened.

    If you do alot of hwy. driving (and have enough motor to get it rolling in city driving) I would keep the 3.73's (if that is what you have...if they are 3.08's I would swap them for sure!). That is what I had. On the hwy I could go 80mph no prob. Now my top speed is about 70mph and I get about 7.5mpg /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
    check out http://www.ring-pinion.com/calculators.shtml

    The tranny cooler is so you don't overheat the trans with the greater stress from larger tires. The "stacked plate" type are better then the "fin and tube" type. I have a B&M I got from summit and it works great.

    If you got those numbers from this forum then I'm sure they would work...but I suspect that that rear line p/n is from a 73- blazer. I bought a set of procomp stainless steel brake lines for a 73-. The fronts worked fine and were about 6" longer then stock. The rear line had a different (one size smaller) flair fitting size at the "T" and it was only about 2" longer then the factory line. It didn't matter to me because I was making new hard lines for the rear axle anyway. My front lines were lowered when the lift was put on (the cheep way to do it...done by the previous owner). There was a L shaped strip of steel welded onto the frame with a hole through it for the brake line. It lowered the line about 2" and caused the brake line to become tight when I really had the suspension crossed up. When I put the stainless lines I kept the lines in the drop tabs so now I have plenty of flex in the lines.
     
  10. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    Triaged,

    Thanks for all the help. Sorry about asking how tall you were. I'm 6'3" and people say things in relation to themselves so i needed to know where you were coming from. I go top the coolege here and the parking spots are tight, and people cant park on top of that. I had already decide that i never would go any higher than 6" b/c of flipping.

    I will wait on the trimming /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif till i get the tires.

    I added the zeroerates at your suggestion and my wife started laughing. something about always adding something to the truck. (go figure) /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

    i will jack up my truck and turn the axels over and count the rotations and see what they divide out to.

    thanks again for all the help /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    69K5
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gifnathan
     
  11. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    Triaged, I used the '73 up lines on mine. I found some bushings at a local hose place that adapted the "T" from the smaller size to the size of my hardlines. Was a cheap fix to that problem. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    This is my list
    1- Someone to put my Doug Thorly headers on.
    2- And hook up my mufflers.
    3- Someone to change over my rear 4” block with my 57” leafs.
    4- And install the shackle flip kit in the box next to the leaf springs.
    5- And grind off the bottom of the 14FF sitting in the driveway.
    6- And paint it after putting the Detroit locker in it.
    7- And hang the 14 bolts on the K5.
     

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