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Clanking driveshaft?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by ramses, Jul 6, 2004.

  1. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    Ive been hearing a quiet clanking noise somewhere under my truck after I shift to third gear and get on the gas, I thought it was maybe my rear end (original 14 bolt ff) but I doubted it since my truck only has 49,000 original miles on it. I crawled under and saw that its something with the front of the driveshaft making the noise, but the u joints look pretty good. What else could be wrong?
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    What is the rest of the drivetrain composed of ? Trans, case etc. ? It would help us try to help you . Please fill out your profile /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  3. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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    Man you better hold on tight! Being under your truck in third gear while on the gas looking for noise is BAD for your health! LOL /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    I would remove my driveshafts and rotate the u-joints and slip yokes to check them. Looking at them will tell you little unless they are really messed up. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  4. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    It has the 4 speed with the granny gear, dana 44 front diff and 14 bolt ff rear end. I think it has 4.10 gears in it but ill find out for sure when I take the cover off(by the way can someone explain how to get the right number from counting the teeth to find out my ratio?). I checked it out more thoroughly and the u-joints are good on the driveshafts, but the u-joints on my front axles are awful, im almost sure theyre the original ones lol. There is some play in the rear end I think. Its not a loud noise, I have to try real hard to hear it while driving and if I clutch very smoothly it doesnt do it. My truck only has 49,000 original miles in it and is in unbelievably good shape, no rust or anything, so why would my rear end be clanking? I thought 14 bolts were as tough as you can get? I dont think the grease has ever been changed, could new grease stop it? I know its 30 years old but it seems like that wouldnt effect it that much, seems like milage and usage is more important, and this truck was driven by my grandfather so thats not an issue either. Im gonna take the cover off today if I can find a new seal for it and check it out and change the grease.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Well, you pretty much summed it up yourself.

    49,000 miles or not, that's an old truck and it has never had front axle u joints or the oil changed in the rear end.

    14 bolts are very strong and dependable but everything sucks without any lube in it.
     
  6. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    I didnt think old oil would effect it that bad. I checked it yesturday and it had enough in it, but today I got a new gasket for it and ill take the cover off and check the gears out. If it needs a new ring and pinion, should I replace anything else in it? Is $300 a good price for thr ring and pinion?
     
  7. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    (by the way can someone explain how to get the right number from counting the teeth to find out my ratio?)

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Divide ring gear teeth by pinion gear teeth , or look at the numbers on side of ring gear where they will be stamped . It will be something like 41 / 10 which would be 4.10's.

    As for the noise , if you are saying rearend , I am partial to thinking it may be ok , just old , but I have no way to know without hearing it . /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    Well I took the cover off and the gears are all in pretty good shape, the teeth are all way thicker and better looking than I expected from the noise it was making. It just old I guess, oh well I can get new gears for 2 or $300 anyway which I can afford. I even used the original gasket because it was in such good shape. Also, it has 4.10 gears as I expected, and those are the gears I want, theyre low but it can still run on the highway even if it has to strain a little lol. Now I have to check my front diff. I have to put new U-joints in the axleshafts so I think im just gonna put heavy duty axle shafts and u-joints in while im at it. How much would a set of heavy duty axles and u-joints cost me? They dont have to be the best, just enough to pull 37 inch tires through mud without breaking, nothing too extreme.
     
  9. smprider112

    smprider112 1/2 ton status

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    I paid 20 bucks for Brute force U-joints from Autozone...they are probably one of the better made and cheaper U-joints
     
  10. vw62rag

    vw62rag Registered Member

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    i have i simular problem, i replaced all the rear u joints and i still get a clanking sound coming from the 14 bolt rear end.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    If it needs a new ring and pinion, should I replace anything else in it? Is $300 a good price for thr ring and pinion?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    If it needs a ring and pinion you'll have to replace the pinion bearings, and I would replace the differential bearings while you're at it.

    $300 is too much for a ring and pinion set most likely, depending on brand.
     
  12. ramses

    ramses 1/2 ton status

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    The ring gear was in great shape, I put new oil in it and put the cover back on and it still does it but it doesnt seem as loud. There is still some play in it somewhere. I couldnt really see the spider gears, could they just be worn out? If so, how do I replace them and what all do I need to buy to do it? Are ring and pinion and spider gears the only thing that could cause the play and the noise?
     
  13. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Are ring and pinion and spider gears the only thing that could cause the play and the noise?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I always thought that everything in the rear driveline contributed to it . 2wd vehicles clank a little with age , but 4wd trucks will clank more as there is also a transfercase in the rear driveline . I wonder what others think , but seems like it . /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  14. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    are you sure it is a open differential.stock soime trucks came with a detroit locker.if you could not see spider gears then you have a detroit and it will clank a little when it engages and disengages.
     
  15. jrsheets

    jrsheets Registered Member

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    Remove the pinion side of the rear driveshaft, first check that for wear by turning investigating. Next i would look and see how much free turn is in the pinion. Turn it in a wiggling side and see how much you can turn it. It shouldn't be much, you should feel it. It you can't feel the gears hitting each other as you turn it each way, thats a problem, and if you are having to wiggle pretty hard, thats a problem to. I would also pull back and forth on the pinion itself to make sure its in tight. It should spin, but have some drag to it and not freespin more than a half turn.

    Ok guys, i might just be a newbie at all this, but im trying, so don't fry me to hard if i sound stupid. /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
     
  16. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    I noticed that you have a 4 speedmanual tranny, the drive sleeve between you tranny and transfer could be slighty worn and also make some clanking sound when getting on and off the gas. This I have heard is common in trucks with the SM465 and the NP205 transfer. Just another thing to check /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
     
  17. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    i forgot about the power sleeve.i busted all the splines in mine and also the outout shft on the tranny.i currently had a banging problem when getting on and off the gas.that was due to a cracked tranny belhousing and the engine torque was moving the whole driveline about a 1/2 inch when getting on and off the gas.
     

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