Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Clocked NP208 up 4.25in and needs to build new tranny cross member ??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 87GMCJimmy, Mar 10, 2004.

  1. 87GMCJimmy

    87GMCJimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2001
    Posts:
    582
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Ya'all,
    I purchased a clocking ring for my np208 which should move it up about 4 inches. I was able to re-install it using the stock cross-member space down 1 inch with the stock space with minimal floorboard cutting. This was for fitment only. I now need to build a new cross member and had a few questions.

    The stock cross member puts the bottom of the tranny mount about 3/4 to 1 inch lower then the frame rails when not using the spacers. I would like to get it back to this position and it looks like I should be able to do this without too much more floorboard removal. Has anybody tried to move it higher? To me it looks like I will run into major interference issues.

    Secondly, if you've fabed up a cross member what did you build it out of? I was thinking 2x3 .120wall tube with making a large tab for the tranny mount centered on the 2 inch side to mimic the stock cross member just with out the big drop for clearing the front drive shaft. Just had a thought, even with the clocking I might have to put a little drop in the new cross member to clear the front drive shaft. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif I'll have to look at this.

    Anyway, let me know if you've done this or have any thoughts about it.

    Thanks,
    Mike
     
  2. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2000
    Posts:
    2,792
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    In the Burbs close to Tulsa, OK
    You may have seen this POST, but if you haven't this may give you an idea of what type of material to use and a functional and effective design.

    I will be fabbing Kyle a new crossmember hopefully this weekend. I am planning to use 1.5" schedule 40, but things may change after we start.

    btw, do you have any pics of the test fit?
     
  3. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2001
    Posts:
    2,781
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mesa, Arizona
    Mike,

    I built a "custom" crossmember for Ol' Green a couple of years ago. I used 1.25 or 1.5 (I forget) x .120" wall square tube. I coupled it directly to the transfer case and used urethane spring bushings to mount it to the frame. On the driver's side I mounted to the "inside" of the frame "C" so that the rocks could not grab it. Used my trusty Harbor Freight bender to put the proper curves in it.

    Shane down at Desert Rat in Mesa still has it. He also has the Ol' Green thing torn down to the frame if you wanted to see how it attached.

    Marv
     
  4. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2004
    Posts:
    8,832
    Likes Received:
    4
    Location:
    gilbert az
    I am going by there today or tommarow, I can snap some pics /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif


    "any thing to post a pic" /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  5. 87GMCJimmy

    87GMCJimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2001
    Posts:
    582
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    The engine x-member looks good. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Sorry, I forgot to pm you that I recieved the shipment. I came home from work, it was there, changed cloths, and headed for the garage.

    I should finally put together the tube bender and build it out of tubing.... Maybe I'll do that this weekend and then build the crossmemeber. I can use to the stock one for now to push it up into place where I want it and get everything else back together. I had to cut the exhaust and move the fuel lines.

    I don't have a digital camera right now, it left with half the furniture and alot of baggage. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
    Mike
     
  6. 87GMCJimmy

    87GMCJimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2001
    Posts:
    582
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Marv,
    Thanks for the ideas. I think mounting inside the frame rail is a great way to go but I need to also fit my exhaust through that area again. I'll have to see how much room is left.

    Is the green thing morphing into something or just being used for parts?

    Also, the trip to Tuscon looks like it might not happen until next weekend. I let you know when.

    Thanks,
    Mike

    PS. Do think that there is any advantage to putting the polly mounts at the frame rail ends? More clearance? Looking at it I see the bottom of the t-case still being the lowest spot.
     
  7. 87GMCJimmy

    87GMCJimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2001
    Posts:
    582
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Pic's /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif

    Thanks, b/c I'm no where near mesa.
    Mike
     
  8. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2001
    Posts:
    2,781
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Mesa, Arizona
    [ QUOTE ]
    PS. Do think that there is any advantage to putting the polly mounts at the frame rail ends? More clearance?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    This topic is more controversial than the Britney/Madonna "smooch"..... but here's what I think:

    Using the bushings at the frame or at the base of the case is fine - and will net about the same effect. Long as there's some "give" somewhere in the system. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    Any opposing opinions..... Russ?! /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif

    Marv
     

Share This Page