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Clutch bleeding tips?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SnackPack, Sep 15, 2005.

  1. SnackPack

    SnackPack 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys,

    I was bleeding the hydaulic clutch last night and I thought I had gotten it right, but after I hooked the slave cylinder back up to the fork, I had nothing on the pedal. It moved freely, but didn't move anything. I had gotten a new master cylinder, so there the only fluid in there was sitting in the slave cylinder and the hydraulic line. Do you guys have any simple clutch bleeding tips?

    My process was as follows: depress clutch pedal, bleed valve, close valve, release pedal, repeat.


    Adam
     
  2. SnackPack

    SnackPack 1/2 ton status

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    Here's an update... I did see some other posts on clutch bleeding and floowed those. I'm definately getting somewhere... the clutch only has a little bit of play at the top of the pedal and the slave cylinder is now moving the clutch fork, but I still can't get it out of gear.

    Is this normal? Does anyone know how far the clutch fork should travel to release the clutch? I'm trying to determine if there's something I didn't do properly to the clutch components in the bellhousing.

    The truck is sitting on a slight upwards incline, too. So I know that in this situation it can be tough to take it out of gear... but not like this. It's damn near impossible to take it out.

    Adam
     
  3. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I had to take my slave off the bellhousing to bleed it. Took two people to do the job right. Good luck.
     
  4. SnackPack

    SnackPack 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, was doing that... finally tried pumping the piston in with the bleeder cracked to push everything out of the slave. Then I toppoed off the reservoir. This seemed to do it.

    Thanks.
     

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