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clutch hoseing??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dleroy43, Jan 29, 2006.

  1. dleroy43

    dleroy43 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    What hose can I use to replace a clutch line? Mine has a hole and I am not paying $85 at GM for a hose. I dont see the PSI as the problem, just brakefluid eating the hose up.
    Would fuel line work?

    Thanks :burb:
     
  2. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    They use a brake line style hose for the clutch for the pressure that is exerted on it. If you've ever cut a rubber brake line intentionally, you'll notice that the actual ID of the tube isn't very large, while the OD is.

    Fuel line, whether it is standard or FI hose, has a larger ID and is not built to handle the pressure that is generated by even the clutch MC.

    My opinion, pony up for it, or search the junkyard. HOWEVER, please don't try to build a line out of hard lines, as the transmission to frame to body flex will fatigue the line and cause it to rupture.
     
  3. dleroy43

    dleroy43 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    My line is half metal half rubber. I didnt think that there was that much pressure in a clutch line. Bummer
     
  4. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i bought one at the local carquest for $55, its better than the dealer's price, and not junk that you may find in a junkyard.

    ive wanted to make one that was all rubber, summit sells fittings and line to make brakelines (NON DOT), im thinking that you could get the same stuff for a clutch line. not sure what the price would be compared to a factory replacement part, but its an option.
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You've checked the part number at gmpartsdirect.com?
     
  6. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    hose shop??

    Unless the fittings on each end are special,a hydraylic hose shop that makes hoses for backhoes and other heavy equipment might be able to make one for you..

    I've used rubber brake lines to replace clutch master to slave hoses on antiques that had no listings anymore..I just used the "illustrated parts guide" book,and go by length and fitting sizes..yours might have metric fittings at strange angles that prevent this route however..

    I saved a few older hoses by either cutting out the bad portion if it was not too close to the ends, and installing a male and female pipe thread fitting on each end, and then simply screwed them together,using the hydraulic hose machine at one parts store I worked at..also did that to many P/S hoses for people who did motor or chassis swaps, and used mis-matched parts,and could not find the right parts to make them "jive"....just cut both hoses in half,and use the pipe fitting ends crimped on,to join them!.:D

    You can sometimes "peel" the shell off the fittings by grinding them,(you may have fixed an air hose this way before!)..this reveals the inner "barb" fitting the hose slides over..I found getting suitable hose was fairly easy,(any hydraulic hose with braid will work for a clutch)--but there was no way to "re crimp" a shell over it with our machine..and hose clamps were not always trustworthy,they let the hose pop off on one IHC truck we tried mousing that way...we had to double clamp it,and hope it held..(it did hold with 2 clamps on each end)..

    I know GM is stupid on hose prices..they wanted 110 bucks each for an S-10 with a 4.3 V6's oil cooler hoses,and they looked like cheap vinyl hose held on the fitings with aluminum bands..gauranteed to dissapear within 3 years or your money back.(the main reason they fail,salt eats the "clamps",and the hose blows off..if your lucky you shut it off before the bearings starve for oil!)...my friend replces a lot of them,and has started having a local hydraulic hose shop make replacement ones, rather than buying GM ones now..if my 6.2's oil cooler hoses fail,thats what I'm going to do..:crazy:
     

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