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Coating for home made bumper

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Mastiff, Sep 6, 2003.

  1. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    What paint or other coating is best if I want to protect my bumper from rust, keep it decent looking, and not have to mess with it all the time? My last one I tried to just keep on top of it with paint, but where I live, that means painting every 3 months, and soon it starts looking really crappy (since I didn't sand it all down every time).

    I know I could POR-15 it or powder coat, but I'm not real certain how either of these would hold up to getting gravel kicked up from the rear tire. POR-15 kinda scares me too, since if the paint over it gets worn off, it'll break down in the sun (I believe). I've also had not-great luck getting the POR-15 to go on even on large flat areas.

    Are there any other industrial strength options? Anodizing like bolts? Not interested in chrome. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  2. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    HERCULINER........
     
  3. bowtiepower00

    bowtiepower00 1/2 ton status

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    Powdercoat should hold up pretty well, but might get a little spendy. Not sure what part of the state you're in, but Rhino Linings of Britt quoted me around $50 to do a stock front bumper, and Fairfield was a little higher. I'd prep it and paint it with POR-15 to start, and work from there. You could get it dipped in a Galvanize tank, it doesn't get much tougher than that, but finishing it would be a pain.
     
  4. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I painted my axles with a low-gloss black engine enamel...it's pretty tuff stuff for $3.50 a can at Walmart. Also, if you do scratch/chip it, it's a simple touch-up, unlike a powdercoat or something to that effect.
     
  5. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I painted my bumper with POR-15 five years ago. Always intended to top coat it and never did. It doesn't look all that great and needs to be redone, but 5 years w/o a top coat out here on the left coast (I am 4 blocks from the ocean) says a lot to me.

    If you do go with POR, spend the money and get all of the stuff they say you need for proper prep. I'm convinced that had I done that I could merely scuff mine and top coat it now.

    FWIW, there are two paints out there similar to POR. A friend sent me the links, but I can't find them.

    Once you pierce powder coat it's done, it will start peeling at that point.
     
  6. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Chrome it, that should stick. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    I used a paint called Zero-Rust on my truck, it's supposed to be real tough if you apply it to bare metal. It came out real nice, it fills flaws real nice and dries very smooth. It has a semi-gloss finish and requires no topcoat unless you want it glossy. Keep in mind that I used the type in a gallon can and applied it with a spray gun, generally rattle can paint does not come out as smooth or as thick, since it has to be so thin to use in a spray can. The company that makes it sells it to alot of people that use it on car haulers, dumpsters and heavy equipment, so it must be pretty tough. www.zerorust.com</font>
     

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