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Code Reading HELP!! Urgent

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Jul 6, 2003.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I need to read the codes on my 95. How do I do it?(jumper trick?) I am suppossed to leave in little over half an hour and my truck is going down the shitter it seems.(excuse me just REALLY mad) I was driving around and noticed the service engine soon light came on, then I realized it was shifting really hard like someone suddenlly installed a shift kit(mostly from first to second), then I realized I had lost passing gear stomp on it and it just shifts normal no kicking down, then I noticed that when I step on it from a stand still it almost stalls out! It spits and sputters and won't move unless I ease into it. I still have overdrive though. I hate computers and automatics with a passion and I think the 95 is going to go up for sale and I'm gonna find some old beater again or something cause I can't deal with spending 9 grand and having it be as unreliable as my k5. Now I did just replace the exhaust so I am thinking the O2 sensor is messing with it but I don't get how it could be that bad. The tranny is electrically controlled though so who knows. I removed the cat and just put a flowmaster 40 on, its not legally loud when it jumps into passing gear but whatever.
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    I hate computers with a passion, it fixed itself.... since I have to go I will get the codes read later.
     
  3. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    I dont know about on a 95, but my 87 K5 did the exact same thing (check engine light came on and it lost all power), then I turned the truck off and filled it with gas, and it fixed itself. A good friend of mine who is a service manager at my local chevy dealership told me it was my timing, and gave me a diagram of where the distributor and rotor should be lined up. I fixed it according to the diagram, and it runs fine now. The reason for the check engine light is because the computer is trying to advance the timing to compensate for it being off, and after a while realizes that it cant do it untill the distributor is fixed. Also my transmission shifted the same way, and wouldnt downshift with throttle, and I found out it was the TV cable. It is really easy to adjust, and will take only about 5 minutes to adjust, and all you need is a pair of pliers. Here is a link to some good and accurate info about the tv cable: TV Cable Adjustment I hope this helps. Oh, and as for reading the code, you can take a paper clip and bend it in half, and stick the two ends in the top right hand two holes on the port under the dash. They are the A and B ports. Then, turn the key to the on position but do not start the truck, and just count the number of times the service engine soon light flashes and that will be a code. Here is a link to one of the best code interpretation sites I have found, and at the bottom, it will show you exactly where to stick the paperclip ends if I have confused you about that, but you do need Acrobat to view it. Code Page
    -Harrison
     
  4. rigdonhome

    rigdonhome 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I hate computers with a passion, it fixed itself.... since I have to go I will get the codes read later.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Not sure about Trucks, but '96 was the first year for OBDII in Cars and I'm pretty sure the 'Paper Clip' thing doesn't work in OBDII systems. My Z28 is a '95 though and the Paper Clip works, it doesn't have OBDII.

    In summary, it should be safe but I'm not sure when trucks went to OBDII, so be careful...

    Cheers,
    Scott
     
  5. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Not sure about Trucks, but '96 was the first year for OBDII in Cars and I'm pretty sure the 'Paper Clip' thing doesn't work in OBDII systems. My Z28 is a '95 though and the Paper Clip works, it doesn't have OBDII.

    In summary, it should be safe but I'm not sure when trucks went to OBDII, so be careful...

    Cheers,
    Scott

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Didnt he say his was a 95?? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
    -Harrison
     
  6. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    THE SYSTEM IS DOWN THE SYSTEM IS DOWN

    yeah but he said he was sure on cars not trucks and i think in 95 the trucks did have OBD2 computers. If it is a obd2 you can get it checked at autozone for free on there scanners its not a snap on or anything but it works. I love haing probs with the sensors on my 89 truck with SH /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gifT TBI it will go 4bbl carb
     
  7. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Re: THE SYSTEM IS DOWN THE SYSTEM IS DOWN

    yep its 95 and its OBDI not II. It happened again a couple times last night and when they checked it it turns out my TPS is reading low voltages so the computer things its not getting full throttle even though it is. Since my tranny is electronic that explains the no downshift and hard shifts.
     
  8. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    well I replaced the TPS sensor and I still have problems. in fact its worse. Now the truck keeps stalling out when I come to a stop(randomly). The transmission problems are gone but it also lopes at idle sometimes(randomly again). Used the paper clip and came up with(I think) these codes, 33, 22. 22 is still tps sensor and 33 is low manifold pressure, high vaccum. Anyone know why that would happen? I removed my cat the other day and put on a flowmaster 40, could that have anything to do with it?
     
  9. rigdonhome

    rigdonhome 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    well I replaced the TPS sensor and I still have problems. in fact its worse. Now the truck keeps stalling out when I come to a stop(randomly). The transmission problems are gone but it also lopes at idle sometimes(randomly again). Used the paper clip and came up with(I think) these codes, 33, 22. 22 is still tps sensor and 33 is low manifold pressure, high vaccum. Anyone know why that would happen? I removed my cat the other day and put on a flowmaster 40, could that have anything to do with it?


    [/ QUOTE ]

    The TPS sensor has to be adjusted once installed. I believe it should read about 0.5 to 1 volt at idle, and then run up to a max of 4 volts at WOT. You can actually test this very easily with a simple $10 Radio Shack MultiMeter. This is probably what is causing your idle problems. I can scan in the actual GM Service Manual Page that gives the TPS adjusting procedure if you need it. Just PM me or email me at K5@RigdonHome.com...

    Any vacuum leaks or problems will also cause erratic idle and performance. The computer tries to compensate but if the leak is bad enough it simply can't... Anyway, the first place to look is at the vacuum lines near where you were working... Were you sitting inside the truck anywhere you might have broken a plastic line or pulled a rubber line loose? If that doesn't help, look around for vacuum operated 'stuff' like your cruise control or MAP sensor, etc. You may have hit one and broken the actual sensor apart, thus letting it leak vacuum even though the vacuum line going to it is OK. I have done this several times myself where I fixed something under the hood of an EFI vehicle only to go back later to find I had knocked a vacuum line off...

    Hope that Helps.

    Cheers,
    Scott
     
  10. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    well since i have a turbo350 i dont have to worry about the com shifting my tranny and im running with the TPS unhooked i just cant go to WOT at a start off so i have to start off slow and once at 2500 when the stall is enaged its good to go to 4500 but seeing how im gettin a race truck /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif this week i dont need to pretend my 4x4 is one....
     
  11. rigdonhome

    rigdonhome 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    well I replaced the TPS sensor and I still have problems. in fact its worse. Now the truck keeps stalling out when I come to a stop(randomly). The transmission problems are gone but it also lopes at idle sometimes(randomly again). Used the paper clip and came up with(I think) these codes, 33, 22. 22 is still tps sensor and 33 is low manifold pressure, high vaccum. Anyone know why that would happen? I removed my cat the other day and put on a flowmaster 40, could that have anything to do with it?


    [/ QUOTE ]

    I forgot to address the Flowmaster question. I've seen different systems on different cars and trucks, so it might... One system is to have one or two O2 sensors in the downpipes of your vehicle, always BEFORE the CAT. These systems seem to accept the removal of the CAT very well. The computer never really knows, although the flow through the exhaust does make the 02 sensors read differently than with the CAT... just the backpressure or something, not sure why. But I've never heard of anyone having trouble with a 'Pre-CAT' 02 sensor problem after removing the CAT.

    Next though is the newer system that has an 02 sensor before AND after the CAT. I believe this is to insure that the CAT is doing it's thing. A buddy and I went ahead and removed his CAT on a system like this just to try it, and the computer puked. It didn't run right and the check engine light was on all the time. I don't know what codes it tripped, since it was an OBDII system and we didn't know how to scan for them. We put the CAT back on and it ran fine. So that second 02 sensor must tell the computer that the CAT is gone or trashed, and act accordingly. Big Brother IS watching!!!

    So again I babbled a lot there, but in summary I think that your truck should be OK without the CAT unless there was an 02 sensor AFTER the CAT somewhere that you removed completely, or even if it's still there it's probably telling the computer all sorts of lies and craziness. I doubt the CAT/Muffler change is causing the problem, but anything is possible.

    Cheers,
    Scott
     

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