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Cold Blooded S.O.B.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SkulzNBonz, Feb 28, 2002.

  1. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Here's my dilemma. I have an '86 k5 w/ a 305 w/ about 16,000 miles on it since a rebuild, and a Q-Jet on top of it backed up by a 700r4. When the temps get close to or below freezing, that thing takes 10 to 15 minutes to warm up. I have to stay in the truck with the accelerator partially depressed to keep it running until it warms up. During this time (until the engine gets warm) it is not hitting on all cylinders. What does it sound like to y'all? I'm thinking the carb/choke is the culprit. By the way, I just had the engine tuned up, and once it's warm, it runs great.

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  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    CHoke is not right.
    Before you start it or even touch the accelerator pull the air cleaner. Watch the choke plate. Give it full throttle like you do before starting and see if the choke closes. If it doesn't close you need to loosen the three scres on the choke cover and turn it a couple degrees (small adjustments at a time here) clock wise. Give it a little (not much cause you can flood the engine.) and see if it closes. If it closes fire it up and see how it does.
    If it fires and wants to stall then you may need to increase the cold idle. On the linkages between the choke housing and the choke bowl you will find a philips head screw. give it a 1/8 turn clockwise to bring up the cold idle. after about 4 minutes you should be able to tap the throttle and get the idle to come down some. After 8 minutes choke should be fully off.
    If the choke appears to be right then it may be a proble with the mix solonoide in the carb.

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  3. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Let's see, isn't there some part that is supposed to work when the engine is cold to make it run better until it gets warm? Oh yeah, the choke! I assume that yours has an electric heater coil? Try a cold start with the air cleaner off and manually move the choke plate to see if you can make it smooth out. If it is missing, it is probably too rich. Any black smoke? I find that too lean runs pretty smooth, it just stalls out. You can reindex the choke coil or adjust the rod to the rear vacuum break, depending on which one it needs. It may also be beneficial to up the cold idle speed a little. That is the screw underneath the choke on the passenger's side.

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  4. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    I did exactly what grimmy just described and it fixed mine when I was having trouble with it (this was on my p/u a few years back)

    After I had adjusted everything properly, I only had to only pump the gas once, flick the key, and it was running. After about 45 seconds (this is a warmer climate though), I blip the throttle and the rpms come down a little and go back inside and finish getting ready while it warms up a good 10-15 min.
    Regardless, you should let your truck run a little bit. Short trips especially while the motor isn't warmed up isn't good on them. Gas milage will also hurt real bad.

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  5. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the insight guys (&amp; gal). I give it a shot this afternoon, it's suppose to reach fifty degrees. I'll let ya know how it turns out.

    1-800-MARINES When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight!!!!
     
  6. bigmack

    bigmack 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with the other guys about the choke. Since it is taking that long to warm up, you might want to check the thermostat, if it is stuck open or doesn't have one at all it will take much longer for your engine to warm up.

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  7. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Thermostat is kosher. Just replaced it along w/ the radiator about two-three weeks ago.

    1-800-MARINES When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight!!!!
     
  8. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Also make sure that the rest of your "warm-up" equipment is hooked up and working properly. There should be a tube that runs from your passenger-side exhaust manifold to your air-cleaner housing . Make sure it's hooked up and the that the diverter valve works properly.

    There should also be a valve on the base of your passenger-side exhaust manifold where it hooks into the exhaust. Watch and see that it closes when cold and opens up as the motor warms up.

    There's a little bit more to it(like vacuum lines and other sensors) but if either of these are screwed, it can more than double your warm up time.



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  9. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Aaargh!!!! The choke cover is riveted on! This means I need to replace it, or is there a rebuild kit available? As for all the posts, I have went through and checked/replaced the PCV valve, and checked my connections to make sure everything is hooked up and functioning o.k.. Thanks again for the help.

    1-800-MARINES When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight!!!!
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well is the choke closing? If it's not closing then the element is bad or there is no power to it. Since it will run when warm I'm leaning towrds the lelment if all the linkages are moving easy.
    You can buy new elements at any parts store. Make sure you see how the old one is turned. drill out the three rivets with a 1/8 inch bit. Very slowly pull that cover off and look very close at how the spring is possitioned in the fork that operates the choke. The instalation is the revers. most replacement elements will come with screws to replace he rivits.

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  11. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Grim, it's possible this is one of those rare times that you are wrong. I think that the wire is just for an electric heating element to slowly open the coil. I know that mine has come disconnected before and the choke still snaps shut and then slowly opens, it just takes forever for it to open all of the way. Let me know if I am mistaken.

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  12. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Nope, choke isn't closing. I have to adjust the fast idle screw some more, because when I manually close the choke valve, the engine dies. Is that right? Anyway, I can get a kit to replace the rivets w/ screws, and I'll have to check for the element kit.

    1-800-MARINES When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight!!!!
     
  13. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    you might also spray some carb cleaner on there to get any grime or anything off that might be causing the choke to stick open.

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  14. SkulzNBonz

    SkulzNBonz 1/2 ton status

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    Sprayed gobs of carb cleaner in/on &amp; around it last night. Pretty sure this is the original choke that came w/ the truck in '86.

    1-800-MARINES When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight!!!!
     

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