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Comp Cams Extreme 4x4 BBC cam...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Zeus33rd, Apr 28, 2003.

  1. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Got one of the Extreme 4x4 cams for my big block..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now I can finally get the truck goin again...It's been 3 months since I've drivin it. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif For those that didn't know, I ended up with a flat lobe on the cam thats in my big block now. Which sucked.....Cause it cost me $500 and my girlfriend at the time. Oh well..Hindsight is always 20/20. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    Looks like I'll be teachin myself cam swapping now. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    Please let me know how that cam works in your 402! I've been reading the CompCams website, and I'm also going to use one of their cams from the Xtreme 4x4 line. I think I'm gonna use the next bigger size/grind than yours in my 489 bbc build-up, but I'm real interested in how well this cam works for you. You got a cool ride, I like the pictures you post! Good luck on the install!

    Oh yeah, have you ever considered one of those auxiliary overhead camshaft oilers from B.C. Engineering? They supposedly help prevent premature cam failures due to lack of oil. Since I am rebuilding an engine from the bare block, I am planning on using one of these oiling kits (if it ever gets here).

    Just checked the CompCams site- I am planning on running the same one! (I couldn't remember the specs when I posted earlier). So now I'm really interested in how this cam works for you!
     
  3. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    That cams almost as big as the one I run! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Heres an article I wrote on swapping cams. Hope it helps.

    Cam Change
     
  4. k30gambi

    k30gambi 1/2 ton status

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    I've got that same exact cam in my 454 also with their roller tip rockers. Make SURE you use the right valve springs (911-16). When I first put the cam in I was kind of dissapointed with it then we put the 911-16 valve springs in and holy sh!t. I honestly think it didnt lose any low end and it gained alot of mid and top end power. It'll pull all the way to 5000 (sm465). Also I've got old cast iron exhaust manifolds with 2.5in dual with 40series flos, everybody says headers will help that much more but i havent tried yet. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  5. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    I plan on purchasing the whole cam kit deal, with the correct springs, retainers, etc. I also plan on using roller tipped rockers. So... Holy Sh!t, sounds like it works for you!
     
  6. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    just a little info, if those are dual springs you will need to machine your heads. If those are not dual springs then the next size cam in that line WILL require dual springs. I ran into this with a 396 build-up. just something else $$$ to consider $$$ when picking your cam that COMP CAM might not tell you /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  7. ratlover

    ratlover 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldnt run one of those overhead cam oiler deals. All they do is dump large amounts of oil onto the cam. This creats lots of windage(not really that big of a deal for your everyday BBC but.....) Yes it will help but its not the best fix IMO

    BBC's are natorious for eating cam lobes, most is from improper break in. Use some EOS from the GM man and some good moly paste like cran sells and only use your outers if you are running a dual set up. If a single doing a 20 min break in on some weak springs is a good idea if you are running heavy singles and it will never hust(used stocker springs work well if they wont hit coil bind)

    If you are concerend about more oil to the cam then put it right were it needs to go and dont use excseive oil IMO. Use a lifter that has had the oil hole zapped through the center. If you are running a roller lifter have one that has the oil hole shooting it right at the trinion(thats the right word right?) The axel deal that the roller rides on. A rev kit in a solid roller app will keep the lifters on the lobes at all times and add to longevity IMO also.

    A oil grove in the side of the lifter or puting a grove in the block is a better alternative than those oilerdealies but I still would only run a lifter that has been bored from the manufacturer with a lazer I believe(they add a nominal fee)

    Just my .02$
     
  8. BurbLover

    BurbLover 1/2 ton status

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    My next purchase is a Comp Cam for my 402. I plan on getting the 252 in lieu of the 262. I'll be curious about how you like it. It mat be another 3-4 months before I get my motor in my burb.
     
  9. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Make SURE you use the right valve springs (911-16).

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Thanks for that part #. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [ QUOTE ]
    If you are concerend about more oil to the cam then put it right were it needs to go and dont use excseive oil IMO. Use a lifter that has had the oil hole zapped through the center. If you are running a roller lifter have one that has the oil hole shooting it right at the trinion(thats the right word right?) The axel deal that the roller rides on. A rev kit in a solid roller app will keep the lifters on the lobes at all times and add to longevity IMO also.



    [/ QUOTE ]

    I've already got a new set of lifters...Comp Cams hyd- 812-16. There is a small hole in the side of them- Is that what you refer to? My heads are closed chamber 427 heads with Harland Sharpe full roller aluminum rocker's.
    Are THESE the valve springs I should run? These are the 911-16 set.
     
  10. ratlover

    ratlover 1/2 ton status

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    All lifters have a little hole in the side of em, its how the oil gets though em and up the pushrod and all that jive. This hole is in the unmachined looking band part of the lifter.

    The ones I am refering to have a little ittybity hole in the face(part that rides on the cam)

    Unless you are refering to lifters that have a "oil grove" machined down the side of the lifter from the little unmachined band on the side (were the oil flows around were the hole is in the side) squirting onto the cam. But your running a flat tappet hyd cam right...*I've only seen this done on roller tappet cams, I dont think they do it on flat tappets.* This does the same thing as putting a grove into the lifter bore on the block.

    My explination is a tad bit screwy but hopefully you get the idea.
     
  11. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    How'd you loose the girl? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  12. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    All lifters have a little hole in the side of em, its how the oil gets though em and up the pushrod and all that jive. This hole is in the unmachined looking band part of the lifter.

    The ones I am refering to have a little ittybity hole in the face(part that rides on the cam)

    Unless you are refering to lifters that have a "oil grove" machined down the side of the lifter from the little unmachined band on the side (were the oil flows around were the hole is in the side) squirting onto the cam. But your running a flat tappet hyd cam right...*I've only seen this done on roller tappet cams, I dont think they do it on flat tappets.* This does the same thing as putting a grove into the lifter bore on the block.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    I would think a grooved lifter or lifter bore would do the same thing as the overhead cam oiler.
    [​IMG]
    I think the cam oiler is a simple and easy way to fix the notorious cam problem and cheaper. It's a fact that the rear lobes starve for oil. Doesn't matter how the engine is put together, most BBC's will have this problem. Why risk it when you can prevent it from happening?
     

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