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controlled breaking points

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Aug 19, 2001.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I was talking to bigbad82k5 the other day and we were dicussing weather or not I should get the CV 1350 driveshaft from Jess with 1350 yoke at the front of the shaft or go with the 1310. IT will cost another 118 dollars to go with the flange he makes to accept the 1350 at the T-case (241 SYE kit).
    But I'd rather know that if something was gonna break it would not be the T-case. And by keeping the 1310 just outside the T-case makes sense that if something were to break I'd know where and it wouldn't be expensive to repair. Besides I'll still have front wheel drive.
    Whats your alls take on this controlled breaking point theory on top of where Im thinking about putting mine?
    happy building!![​IMG]

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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  2. TwoCrowsDesign

    TwoCrowsDesign 1/2 ton status

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    I think it makes a lot of sense, I recently saw an advertisement for splined sleeves that I think were replacement parts designed to go into the hub and shear before you ripped out CV joints or axles Anybody seen these? Well, cuz I forgot where I ran across them.



    John
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Check back issues of "4-Wheeler" or "Petersons 4-Wheel and Offroad".....the article is called "Build It To Break"

    They showed a product by Warn called the "Hub Fuse".....basically designed to break apart before anything "expensive" does! You carry a few extra sets when you are wheelin' and if there is breakage, all you have to do is remove the screws that hold the outer hub cover in place and swap in a new set of these 'fuses'.....seems like a pretty smart idea. And a lot faster trail repair than a u-joint or axle!!!!

    -Greg72
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Until you move up to a Dana 60 I'm almost certain the front axle u-joints are going to be your weak link. They take about 4 times more applied torque than the driveshafts do...especially if you're locked in the front.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  5. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    I'm pretty sure I heard someone talking about the hub fuses... if they go when you your wheels are turned a certain way they could blow out your detriot if you have one? Is this right...? Or am I thinking of something else and not these suckers?

    How can I miss you if you won't go away? [​IMG]
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  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    You do have that right Steph...at least thats what I read in Peterson's not too long ago. I'd have to look it up again to see exactly what all they broke but it sure wasn't limited to inexpensive hub fuses.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  7. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    They (Warn) say if you run a front locker and a fuse lets go it can take out the locker. However, it will be no worse than the axle letting go. The same forces are applied. This seems to be more of a problem with the drop in style lockers. One other thing to note. If you are still running stock shafts the fuses are stronger than the stock shafts. These are designed to be used with upgraded shafts so you don't blow a joint and wipe out the ears on your shafts, because they won't replace them if the dammage was caused by a u-joint letting go. Also if the wheels are turned, the fuse is stronger than the u-joint.

    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
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  8. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, so what about the driveshaft in the rear?

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The driveshaft in the rear will only be a waek point if you keep the 1310's...I run 1350's on both ends of my rear driveshaft. I have a 205 so its a little more straightforward to do than with a 241. If you're getting a SYE for the 241 get a 1350 yoke and have the driveshaft done with 1350's front and rear.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, thats what "I" was wanting to hear, but my wallet is saying something different!![​IMG]
    I may just do some extra sweet talking and see if I can go ahead and get the 1350 setup.
    [Honey! Its Rene's fault!!!!] [​IMG]

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Sure, blame me...I don't think I'm in 'frying pan' range!
    You can do better than that Brandon...blame me for a Dynatrac Dana 60 and just get it over with![​IMG]

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  12. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    BLAAAAAAAHaaaa.[​IMG]
    After all my birthday is coming up here in September. Yeah yeah, that the ticket!!!!

    Learning to fry bacon!! [​IMG]
    3/4 in progress[​IMG]
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