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Converting a 2wd to 4wd

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by wayne, Aug 3, 2004.

  1. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    I'm just curious to find out if anybody has done it on a 73 or newer K5, truck, or Burb. I am thinking about doing it to the Burb at some point in the future.
     
  2. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    mj did.
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    brackets in the front, t case of course, axle duh, already got the box for crossover though on your burb not sure you would want that unless you bought an aftermarket swaybar. Biggest issue would be if there was any body to tcase interference, no idea if that would be an issue on the burb.
     
  4. great scott

    great scott 1/2 ton status

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    how about finding a 4x4 frame.
     
  5. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    brackets in the front, t case of course, axle duh, already got the box for crossover though on your burb not sure you would want that unless you bought an aftermarket swaybar. Biggest issue would be if there was any body to tcase interference, no idea if that would be an issue on the burb.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I know what parts are needed. Just curious as to who has already done it and what they thought.
     
  6. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    how about finding a 4x4 frame.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That would be the plan but I'm not sure if I want to swap a frame or just the pieces.
     
  7. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    I personly would just do the pieces. Slap a divorced 205 under it, either ford or dodge so either front end would work.
    Besides you already have the title to the burb /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  8. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    Guy I know done it to a 3+3, use the brackets up front and the shackle brackets in the rear, used a D60 and early 80's 6.2/400/ forget what tcase, look spretty good. pinion angle is weird becaue the frame doesn't bend back down or something so the spring run uphill toward the front, he used some shims and got that fixed, looks pretty good, you could only tell but the extra bump that the 2wd stuff mounts around on the frame. Seems like there's the engine crossmember had to be swapped in, of course the 4wd steeering box and draglink to the steering on the axle.... I'd say if you didn't want to do the body swap onto a 4wd frame you need to find a 4wd frame and use it for parts... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  9. great scott

    great scott 1/2 ton status

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    Didnt one of the mags do a story on this not so long ago?
     
  10. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    apparently it is too hard to even consider.
    I paid $100 cdn for every bracket and crossmember I needed from the local wrecking yard.
    somehow it is cheaper to sell a worthless 2wdr and buy a high resale 4x4.
    you need all kinds of fancy tools, like a drill, and a tape measure
     
  11. odee1

    odee1 Registered Member

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    I done my 87 sub awhile back while swapping out the blown 6.2 for the 6.5. It wasn't that bad of a job, just have everything you need handy and it will go by very quickly. I still need to put a leaf in the rear spring or put a block in it to make it sit level.
     
  12. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Lol MJ. I started to do it on my 84 C20. I was going to convert it to 4x4 for my sister to drive on the street, but about half way into it I decided it was over my head. So she's getting my Z71 /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif. Anyway, I decided to go ahead and proceed with the project, albeit over long period of time. I want to make an all out trail rig out of it. It is totaly do-able, and if you have all the brackets and a good set of sharp drill bits, plus a little more know-how than I had, it shouldnt be too hard or take too long. The 2wd frame isn't that much different from the 4x4 one once you get all the old suspension yanked off.
     
  13. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    and a good set of sharp drill bits,

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I've found the 1/8" - 1/2" Uni-Bit to work real well for drilling holes in the frame. Just drill a 1/8" pilot hole and use the Uni-Bit to increase to the size that you need.
     

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