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COOL! CTM driveshaft u-joints....

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Zeus33rd, Nov 22, 2003.

  1. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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  2. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah Jack was telling me he was testing them in that aplication when I did the review. I could see using them in a comp truck or a high speed desert truck with strong drive shafts. I think it's a little bit of over kill for a normal rig. There will be folks that think otherwise or run some extreme driveline angles that need that strength. For the average wheeler You can buy a box full of u-joints and a spare drive shaft for less then it would cost yo put those in one CV drive shaft.

    I have never broke a driveshaft u-joint. I have had them get tore up from water washing the grease out and the CTM would also suffer in the same situation. All the drive shaft failures I have seen the yoke broke or it got a dent in the tube and it failed from that. I guess some of the yoke failure could be U-Joint flex but hard to say how much.
     
  3. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    good to see you back grim. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  4. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    I just finished machineing my new driveshaft out of .250 wall DOM. I might get those one day just so I don't hve to worry about my drive shafts at all. The stock one was only .069" wall. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    How often do you twist the tube though? If you bash your driveshaft off an object you can be pretty sure that it's trashed no matter how thick it is (but a thick one will obviously last longer than a thinner one if you didn't hit it that hard). So, what's the chance you could bash that thick tube driveshaft off the rock and not bend it?

    I've had good luck with my driveshafts by simply going with larger u joints and going non-greasable. They've stayed together quite well. I use Neapco joints too, Spicers are too much money IMO. I have their HD line in my rear shaft though, that I got from my driveline guy.
     
  6. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    I'd say with a driveshaft that thick, you might just rip a u-joint apart instead?
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I'd say with a driveshaft that thick, you might just rip a u-joint apart instead?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Thats the idea. I'd rather just carry spare u-joints. With a thick driveshaft, I won't have to carry a spare shaft. Or worry about it breaking/twisting. Even if I do bash it on a rock. .250 wall isn't gonna bend or dent. I could balance the weight of the truck on the drive shaft with no harm to the shaft. hehe

    Tim-
    How can you say that if I bash a .250 wall driveshaft on a rock it's toast? /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Have you ever wheeled hard enough that you've bashed your drive shaft on anything? Or gotten rock rash on it? I doubt it./forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    I might be able to dent the thing if I bashed the hell out of it with a ball peen hammer, but that dent still wouldn't effect its integrity as a driveshaft. Do that with a stock .069 wall shaft, and it's thrashed. But not .250 wall DOM.
     
  8. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Heres a picture of the .250 wall DOM and the stock GM shaft. The picture makes the stock one look thicker than it really is- Theres a burr from the saw, and the glare that makes it look thicker.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. vince13

    vince13 1/2 ton status

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    yeah your driveshaft maybe thicker but how much weight does that add. inda defeats the purpose, you could carry 2 spare stock shafts in your truck for the weight you just put into your new one. and if the driveshaft can take abuse and your u joints break you are most likly going to take out the yoke that the joints sit in, so you are left stranded with a beefy driveshaft thats fine but screwed yokes. just seems way to overkill for me.
     
  10. blk87K5

    blk87K5 1/2 ton status

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    .250" wall driveshafts are where its at for rockcrawling.

    CTM joints are tha sh!t if you have the bling to buy them.

    For all the haters that don't know WTF they are talking about when they comment on the uselessness of either of the aforementioned specimens of bling, go back and study up on crawling before you shoot your motuh off and make yourselves look stupid and jealous.

    When someone posts about a new product, don't instantly hate on it because you ain't got the cash to buy it or the nuts to need it.
     
  11. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    Good comments....
     
  12. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    .250" wall driveshafts are where its at for rockcrawling.

    CTM joints are tha sh!t if you have the bling to buy them.

    For all the haters that don't know WTF they are talking about when they comment on the uselessness of either of the aforementioned specimens of bling, go back and study up on crawling before you shoot your motuh off and make yourselves look stupid and jealous.

    When someone posts about a new product, don't instantly hate on it because you ain't got the cash to buy it or the nuts to need it.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Wow...very well said. Saved me the time in typing it myself.

    Defeats what purpose? The purpose of it all is to get a stronger driveshaft. I accomplished that.

    To heavy? These trucks weigh 5k lbs. The wieght argument is an empty one. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    If the u-joint goes, it's gonna mess up the yoke regardless of how thick, or thin, the driveshaft is.

    I'm going to put atleast 1350 yokes on this shaft. Maybe even 1410. With a .250 wall driveshaft, and 1350 or 1410 yokes/ujoints, the drive shft will NOT be the weak link. No spare drive shaft to carry. Nothin. Just more time spent trying to mash sheetmetal.

    So anyways- When I see ya out on the trail somewhere and you have to puss out and take the go around, or easy line, cause your worried about your driveshaft, I'll say "I told ya so." And motor on having fun worry free. It's all about piece of mind.

    Oh yeah, I also have a 27lb 14b diff cover. Overkill? Nope. Nothing's ever gonna touch my ring gear. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Tim-
    How can you say that if I bash a .250 wall driveshaft on a rock it's toast? /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif Have you ever wheeled hard enough that you've bashed your drive shaft on anything? Or gotten rock rash on it? I doubt it./forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yes, I have bashed my front driveshaft off of a rock before. Yes, there is rock rash on both my front pinion yoke and the front yoke of my front driveshaft. I know exactly what it sounds and looks like to bash a driveshaft off a rock. I have to admit, it's a new thing for me, but yes, I definitely have experienced it once already and it was interesting, to put it mildly. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    So, what you're saying is say you're cruising over a big rock and you come down on that front driveshaft, you won't have to worry about bending the tube? It seems that no matter how thick a tie rod is, people manage to bend or break that, so I had thought the same applies to driveshafts.

    Thanks for the comparison on thickness. Damn that's some beef. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I would like to see how well it works out though. I'm not totally convinced, but I think it's definitely possible to bash any tube, no matter what the size or thickness into a rock hard enough to bend it. I know after the last time I bashed mine, even though I got lucky and got no damage, I have a new respect for just cruising along on some rocks and hearing such a horrible sound.
     
  14. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Its a rear driveshaft, not front. And if you really think it's possible to bend in this application, then you don't have much experience with the subject. You've never eld a piece of .250 wall DOM in your hand have you? Not trying to be ann ass....but considering the short length of the tube, and the weight of the truck, it won't bend. It'll get rock rash of course, but it'll last forever. Period.
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Exactly why I used the word, "probably" and asked what the chance was that you could bash it and expect it to stay together.

    Either way, good luck with your shaft. Looks pretty beefy to me. Is it possible to balance a shaft that heavy as smoothly as a lighter one? I know you don't have intentions of driving your truck on the road, but is this an upgrade that can be done to a road driven vehicle? How much does that driveshaft weigh, and how long is it?
     
  16. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Bending .250 wall? possible, not likely. I have a small bow to my 1.875 x .375 wall sleeved lower link arms, but they're like twice as long as my driveshaft tube and I deliberately bounce on them with all the truck's weight.
     

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