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Cooling system

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ric89k5, Dec 27, 2000.

  1. ric89k5

    ric89k5 Newbie

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    Guys I need your help again

    The radiator on my 89 350 f/i, auto, a/c is leaking and they list 3 different radiators as replacements.

    How do I know if my truck has the factory maximum cooling option ??

    I know one of the 3 radiators is for the maximum cooling, but does anyone know what the other two are for and how do I tell which one I need ??

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. undertow

    undertow Registered Member

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    It might be one of the RPO codes in the glove, unless it was swapped out after the factory installed it. You might wanna try picking up a radiator leak sealer before you drop the cash on a new one.

    <img src="http://members.fortunecity.com/undertow420/undertow.gif">
     
  3. militaryblazer

    militaryblazer 1/2 ton status

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    My radiator was leaking, somebody had put sealer in it to try to fix it and it made it corrode really bad. I just pulled the radiator out and took it down to local radiator shop and had it redone and upgraded to 4 core for better cooling!

    '86 Military Blazer <font color=green><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/m1009_86>http://www.geocities.com/m1009_86</A></font color=green>[​IMG]
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I'd get the biggest one they have! [​IMG] Seriously, the heaviest duty one will have more cores and/or more cooling fins per inch. It may also have a larger auto tranny cooler inside. The fittings for the hoses and tranny lines should be the same regardless of which one you choose.

    Depending on the condition of yours, it may be lots cheaper to have the leak fixed. Most radiator shops will do the work rather cheap if you remove the radiator yourself and take it in to them. If the cooling fins are crumbling and corroded, go ahead and spring for a new one.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  5. Josh

    Josh Registered Member

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    I've had 2 radiators fixed by a shop in my area (Phoenix) and have had excellent results. The place that did them also did the DPS cars in PHX. It's called Bills Radiator. It's alot cheaper than a new one.
     
  6. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    If you can, get the biggest one. Hell, get the diesel one (it's bigger than a 454's.)
    Seriously, go big - no one has ever said complained about having too much raidator.
    -- Mike
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    BTW, both the Big Block radiator brackets and the upper radiator shroud (friend just put the monster radiator in his K5 with SBC) are still available from GM, and CHEAPER than the wrecking yards will sell them to you. I don't think I'd mess with a diesel one though, they have engine oil cooling in them...that adds way too much heat to your cooling system. No offense to people saying it's not possible to run too cool with a big radiator, but I am running a two core, partially to test my theory that it is plenty big enough for a 350 that doesn't see any heavy towing, and partially cause its what I had : ) If your thermostat is staying shut most of the time because your cooling is so good, then you are just lugging around extra coolant weight, and paying for the larger radiator and associated items. I'm of the school of thought that yes, my truck is extremely heavy, but every pound saved is money in my pocket when I go to the pump. Of course my truck isn't getting abused off trail, running 4.10's, and/or towing heavy loads either! : ) But in any case an unclogged, unleaking radiator works much better than a corroded leaky one.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds links: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  8. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Hey Dorian , I'm not sure if your comment regarding oil coolers in a diesel rad is correct. I have an 83 6.2, and my buddy has an 86 6.2, and neither of our trucks have an oil cooler built into the rad. The lines run along the rad between it and the fan, not into the rad itself.



    <font color=red>PHOTO ALBUM-</font color=red> <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1289798>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1289798</A>.......<font color=blue>TRUCK & HIKING PICS</font color=blue>
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I could be wrong, but the diesels I have seen up here in the 'yards have the integral engine oil cooler. What a mess! Steel lines all OVER the engine bay. So maybe it was just an option..what a weird option..or maybe it was just on certain years of the diesels. I think the 350 Olds diesel trucks got the integral engine oil cooler, and I know at least some of the 350 diesel cars did too...I just assumed that was something necessary on a diesel engine because thats all I have seen so far.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds links: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html>http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/index2.html</A>
     
  10. JimmyDie6.2

    JimmyDie6.2 1/2 ton status

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    my 83 has the oil cooler (option?) in the radiator, the cooling capicity of that diesel radiator is absolutely superior to any BBC or SBC rad and has never caused an overheating problem in my JIm, with the 6.2 or now the 5.7 that is in her now. If you opt. for the diesel radiator, you need to buy the whole front support piece for the 6.2 rad. You also need to know the diesel inlet and outlet openings for the hoses are much bigger than a gas motors, You will need to use (this is what I did), exhaust reducers to go from the big diesel rad to the small gas motor thermostat neck, and for the bottom also. Also If you do proceed this way, you MUST, use two clamps on each side of the reducer, I learned this the hard way 20 miles from home, try to flare out the ends of the reducer too. I would If I were you, see what radiator I have, from the RPO codes, If you have the biggest available, fix that. If not, buy a new one, that has the greatest stock cooling capacity......js
     
  11. ric89k5

    ric89k5 Newbie

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    Thanks guys,

    I put in a new maximum cooling rad with 2 cores and a slightly bigger trans cooler. I went new because the old one looked like it was in really bad shape and the new one was only $180 bucks

    thanks again
     

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