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Corp 10 bolt front u-joints in the axle shafts..how to ???

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TJS, Nov 20, 2003.

  1. TJS

    TJS 1/2 ton status

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    I need to replace the front axle u-joints in the front of my GM corp 10 bolt. They make a loud clacking noise when in 4 wheel and turning left or right. I am very mechanical and have many tools. What special tools do I need. Also is there an article somewhere that shows step by step. Also are these 1310 u joints. I have a chilton manual and it sucks.
    Thanks for the help.
    T.J.
     
  2. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

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    take the hub off, innards of hub out, take out the spindle nut, then the washer, then the inner nut, take off the hub assembly, take off the spindle nuts, backing plate, then bash the crap out of the spindle with a rubber hammer, or block of wood on the spindle and a 10 pound sledge, then that comes off, then take the shaft out and do the wheel joint, then reassemble. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  3. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    have to pull hubs apart and remove bearing hub spindles and remove clips that hold shafts to side gear in diff

    i think you have to have axleshaft knuckle joints pressed at a shop, they arent like normal driveline U joints

    someone here will know more, i want to learn specifics on this also
     
  4. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    No clips on the front axle. I would take the cover off and make sure you are careful when you put the shafts back in so that you don't get junk in the differential. Have fun, I'm doing mine this weekend /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Also, they're not 1310 joints. They're special joints. Part number is 1-0297.
     
  6. stretch67

    stretch67 1/2 ton status

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    remove outer hub-inner hub snaprings from hub and axle do you have automatic hubs? if so now is the time to buy quality manual hubs about $100 bucks! use spindle socket to remove outer spindle nut pull lock washer with holes. remove inner spindle nut. remove caliper. pull rotor off spindle.remove spindle nuts 6 of them if i remember right hit spidle with rubber mallet till it breaks loose.pull spindle off at this point you can pull the whole axle stub and axle right out. i think 10 bolts have inner clips on the u-joints this is also the time to check-repack spindle and wheel bearings don't be afraid! i was intimidated the first time i tore into one the bigger chilton books that are truck specific have better info /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  7. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    "Also, they're not 1310 joints. They're special joints. Part number is 1-0297. "

    Why are they special ?
    Could they be 1330 ?
    thanks
     
  8. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Basicly its been covered so I'll just add some helpfull tips. (At least I think they are.) Make sure the litttle "tit" on the nut that engages the lock washer w/ the holes is intact. It keeps the nut from backing off and destroying your bearings. This will make more sense once you get in there.
    Make scraper to clean the dirt out of the axle tube. The tubes are open in the front axle and fill w/ junk. I made one out of sheet metal. A large washer on the end of a long piece of all-thread is another common idea. Even better, after you clean the tube get a piece of PVC pipe that fits inside the tube and will support the shaft. Cut it in half lengthwise and slide it into the tube before the shaft. This will give you a clean, smooth surface on the bottom of the tube so you don't get junk on the splines before they go through the seal and into the carier. Otherwise, be extreemly carefull as you reinstall the shaft not to drag the splines on the bottom of the tube. If you leave the PVC in the tube it will make trail fixes easier, should the need arise.
    Remember to repack your wheel bearings.
    Even if you are careful the axle seals may leak after this, espically if they are still the originals.
    The old Spicer P/N was 5-297X, the new one for the better "better" joint is 5-760. NEAPCO still uses the 5-297 P/N for their joints, including 5-297BF for their "Brute Force" brand.
     
  9. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    cool so front axle shafts are not C-clipped ? thats cool, i guess there would be no point since hubs are attached to rotors in which ride on spindles, that would be what holds shafts from moving then


    good luck with repairs, hope goes well, let us know how it went and what you had to do, i am curious to know along with some other members too im sure /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  10. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    "Also, they're not 1310 joints. They're special joints. Part number is 1-0297. "

    Why are they special ?
    Could they be 1330 ?
    thanks

    [/ QUOTE ]

    HOLY CRAP!!! YOU'RE STILL ALIVE!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Where the heck you been? Haven't seen you on here for quite some time now. Have you found anymore 12 bolt front axles? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     

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