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Cost of 14 Bolt Rebuild

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 1986Blazer, Jul 18, 2001.

  1. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    OK, the salvage yard guru said I can have one of his 14 bolts for about $200.00

    Is that a fair price?????

    2nd - what is the cost of a good rebuild for a 14 bolt FF?????

    3rd - What are my best front axle options once I have the 14 Bolt?

    What does a D44 cost from a good salvage yard?

    Thanks for the answers.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
     
  2. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    $200.00 is very good price for this axle. If you had more time and luck and patience, you could find them cheaper, but 200 is still a good buy.

    You can rebuild the rear for around $500 if you do it yourself.

    Any front axle is good depending on the type of wheeling and playing you do. Generally, of course, the D60 is the best you can get, but those cost some $$$$$.

    You could expect to pay around the same as you did on the rear for the front axle. Like I said, if you are patient and have luck, you can get them cheaper. But that is still a good price for one too.

    I sell my axles for $300.00 each unless someone buys a front and rear from me at the same time, then I sell them for $250.00 each. Just to help them out. Ask your salvage yard if they have a front and rear, if they can match my price. The worse thing they can say is 'no.'

    Anybody planning on checking out my homepage, forget it, I am still working on it!!!
     
  3. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    K30 Guy

    What are the different ratios available for the 14 bolt - should I look for a particular ratio that is better than others? Also, after I get this 14 bolt and determine the ratio, and I get lucky and find a D44, can I change the ring and pinion gears (on either the front or back) to match the axle with better ratio?

    Thanks

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ratios available for the 14FF are:

    3.42
    3.73
    4.10
    4.56

    Aftermarket ratios availabe are:

    4.88
    5.13

    Thats all the choices you have for the 14FF.

    Depending on your tire size and what type of driving/roading you do, 4.10's are about the best selections for all-around gears. Just depends on tire size and tranny too.

    You can change the gears if they are mismatched, but if you dont have any experience with swapping the gears out, take it to a shop to do.

    You need to find a chart that shows RPM's for the tire size and gear ratio to get an idea what you can run. I don't know where to view this chart. You should try to get the ratio that will put your engine in the best powerband to make it perform at its best. Too high of gears and you will have a sluggish problem, especially with passing cars and on hills too. Too low of gears and you will top out at a lower speed and the motor will be screaming for mercy. [​IMG] Thats why 4.10's are considered about the best all-around ratio.

    Anybody planning on checking out my homepage, forget it, I am still working on it!!!
     
  5. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    K30

    While I have your attention I will play student. I have a basic 350 crate motor with a 700R4 and NP 208. The idea of a 4.10 is great since I do very little off roading but I have occasion to pull huge boats out of the water at some local ramps. I am seeking road worthy performance. Just for kicks, lets say I get the 14 bolt and it is 4.10. I can then go looking for a D44 and regardless of the ration I can put in 4.10? Is that correct? And lastly, if I do this I will need to change to 8 lug in the front - I can do that conversion but will I also need to switch for a larger turning knuckle with the K30 style Kingpin design??? If I have to do this, can your provide usable parts??? And if so...what is the estimate for the front 8 lug conversion (minus of course the cost of brand new bearings and seals which I can get here). Thanks...!!!!!!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>

    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by 1986Blazer on 07/18/01 09:13 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  6. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    K30

    While I have your attention I will play student. I have a basic 350 crate motor with a 700R4 and NP 208. The idea of a 4.10 is great since I do very little off roading but I have occasion to pull huge boats out of the water at some local ramps. I am seeking road worthy performance. Just for kicks, lets day I get the 14 bolt and it is 4.10. I can then go looking for a D44 and regardless of the ration I can put in 4.10? Is that correct? And lastly, if I do this I will need to change to 8 lug in the front - I can do that conversion but will I also need to switch for a larger turning knuckle with the K30 style Kingpin design??? If I have to do this, can your provide usable parts??? And if so...what is the estimate for the front 8 lug conversion (minus of course the cost of brand new bearings and seals which I can get here). Thanks...!!!!!!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You are on the right track with the 4.10 to use for pulling boats. Plus with that 700R4, you should get better mileage on the highway in the o.d. mode.

    As for the front axle, you can run ANY ratio you want. Just dont engage the lockout hubs and t-case to 4wd, especially if the ratios don't match. You can get 4.10 gears for the D44 anywhere. They are very popular axles and the parts for them are very plentiful. Matter of fact, there is a wider selection of ratios available for the D44 than the 14FF.

    Yes, you can swap 8 lug parts for the 6 lug parts, ONLY IF, the axle is a D44 or 10B. Any D60 parts WILL NOT work on the D44 or 10B. The D60 is a class of its own. MUCHO BIGGER!!! [​IMG] All D44's and 10B's use ball-joints on the knuckles. D60's are the king pin's.

    I don't have any parts around right now to do a conversion. I just sold the last one over a month ago. I sold that kit for $150.00 complete. The kit consisted of: bearing hubs and rotors, spindles, and backing plates. You will find these parts just about anywhere too.

    Anybody planning on checking out my homepage, forget it, I am still working on it!!!
     
  8. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    K30:

    OK, you have kinda made my day. I am confident I can find a D44 (I do not anticipate climbing MOAB so a D60 is not in my future). PLEASE keep me in mind the next time you come across a complete 6 to 8 lug conversion. $150 is not a problem especially since you seem to know what I need and I'll spend too much time seaching for all the required parts.

    Last question: I need to replace my ball joints, should I wait until I do the 6 to 8 lug conversion? I figure I'd need to replace the ball joints when I put in the new knuckles anyway? Is this right??

    You ever make it to Key West, I'll buy the first 6 rounds! Thanks

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
     
  9. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    FYI....
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.4lo.com>www.4lo.com</a> has the tire/gear/rpm calculators.
    And yes, WES KNOWS AXLES!!!! (adn a bunch of other stuff too!)
     
  10. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If your ball joints are good now, don't worry about them. The best way to check if they are good, jack up one side of the tire and grab the tire at the 12:00 and 6:00 position and shake it vigorously. If its tight, the joints are good. If you feel some slop or some movement, then the joints need replacing.

    In the long run, if the joints are good, leave them alone and if you want, install new ones when you do the 8 lug swap.

    Anybody planning on checking out my homepage, forget it, I am still working on it!!!
     
  11. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    My ball joints are bad - my chasis has about 325,000 miles on it. I will hold out for the new 8 lug conversion. I have a set of Moog ball joints ready to go, i will just swap them out for the ball joints required for the 8 lub knuckles. Just don't forget about me when you see another conversion...thanks

    Chris

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
     
  12. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, I will keep you in mind if I find another set.

    BTW, you got the best parts for the ball joints!!! I use nothing but MOOG parts too!!! [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Anybody planning on checking out my homepage, forget it, I am still working on it!!!
     

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