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Cost of shortening or lengthening a driveshaft?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 85scottsdale, Feb 17, 2004.

  1. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 4" lift on my 85 shortbed K10 with a 12-bolt rear end and 10 bolt front. I have don't have the T-Case dropped because of my exhaust, it causes it to not line up properly (have headers with full dual exhaust). It seems like my rear driveshaft is shorter than I prefer, seems like a lot of the slip yoke is sticking out the back of the T-Case, so i'm thinking about getting a one peice shaft out of a longbed and having it cut-down to the length I want for my lift. Or I could have my stock driveshaft lengthened, but I think the shortening method would work the best and be cheaper. Does anyone know about what it would cost for this to be done? And I realize that I won't get an exact price, just looking for a ball-park.
     
  2. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I had mine lengthened. A new tube is required for that. They charge for the tube by the inch and then for the labor. I paid about $90 total and used really heavy tubing. If you are just shortening, the charge should be just the labor which I'd say is around $50 or less.
    good luck
    Jeff
     
  3. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    So really depending on how much I can get a driveshaft for from a longbed and then about 50 bucks to cut it down depending on where I go and local prices.

    Would it make any difference whether I had my current one lengthened or cut down a longer factory shaft? Perhaps going with new heavier tubing would be a good idea?
     
  4. unick

    unick 1/2 ton status

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    I called and the guy said it would be about $100 for each shaft to be lengthened and put 1ton yokes on.
     
  5. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    I just had my rear shaft made up yesterday. Just got the call that it is done.
    Shorten the shaft..$49
    Balance/straighten............$37
    With new u-joints in it and strap kits it came to $145
    For the front shaft I am just going to have em shorten it.
    I snagged the drivelines from a 79 F250.
     
  6. dawson444

    dawson444 1/2 ton status

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    I paid $113 to have my front shaft lengthened, they put new tube on it and balanced it.
     
  7. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    I'll call oliver driveline company and see how much they'll charge to lengthen and retube my shaft with stronger stuff. I just put in new u-joints, so I don't see any reason to replace them. And I don't plan on running bigger than 33's on this truck, so i'll probably keep stock yokes.
     
  8. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    Oliver's has some of the cheapest prices around. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif While your at it, you might want to go ahead and convert it to a cv shaft. Olivers converted mine to a cv shaft for I think about $45, given they could keep my old yolk.
    -Harrison
     
  9. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I paid $450 for my new shafts...brand new rear with 4" tubing, 1350 yokes, 1350 u-joints, and a new slip yoke.
    I had a new longer sealed slip installed on my front shaft with new tubing and u-joints. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
    [​IMG]
     
  10. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Oliver's has some of the cheapest prices around. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif While your at it, you might want to go ahead and convert it to a cv shaft. Olivers converted mine to a cv shaft for I think about $45, given they could keep my old yolk.
    -Harrison

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sounds like I need to give olivers a call then and get a qoute for lengthening it a few inches, getting heavier tube put on, and converting it to a CV style shaft. my front drivehshaft is fine right now, no problems with it with the current 4", so i'm gonna leave it alone. But my rear shaft has a lot of the slip yoke sticking out and I don't thinking it would take much for it to come out. Its fine so far on the street, but don't wanna be off-road and find out its too short /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
     
  11. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Remember if you install a CV shaft and have a decent amount of lift, you must ensure the diff points right at the xfer case (using shims or rewelding perches) or there will be a vibration issue. The u-joint style will not have the vibration bacause of the cancellation of rotational forces by the ujoint at both sides being oppositely phased. With the CV the rotational forces are cancelled in the CV but this leaves the diff end un-cancelled. Its a low tech explanation, but I'm short on time /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif. Good luck.
     
  12. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    I have only 4" of lift but the T-Case is not dropped either. I'm using the shims that came on the rear springs right now, not sure if thats enough for it or not. The pinion doesn't point right at it, its off by just a little.
     
  13. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    If your ujoint bend angle at the diff is less than 2 degrees you may be OK with a CV shaft. But you can run up to about 15 degree ujoint angle with a standard ujoint shaft ( as long as you have the same angle at the tcase +-2 degrees). To figure the angles, I use a $4 magnetic angle finder which you can put on the diff yoke housing and the tcase.
    Just my opinion, but with 4" lift it is far less work (and cheaper)to simply use a ujoint style shaft. The CV benefit only comes into play if you have pretty severe driveline angles due to a big lift and/or vibration problems. The rotation of the diff when using a CV means the lubication on the pinion shaft and bearings is compromised unless you overfill the pumpkin, which also needs to be done properly.
    Just one persons opinion /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif..
     
  14. 85scottsdale

    85scottsdale 1/2 ton status

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    I'll probably just keep my standard u-joints then, I don't currently have any problems with vibration or severe angles.
     

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