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cost on possible engine rebuild.... please help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by muddysub, Jan 23, 2003.

  1. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    ok the 350 in my sub is gettin TIRED! i'm gonna need a new engine soon.

    i'm actually just thinking about boring it out .030 over and putting in a mild roller cam and roller rockers. how much would it cost to have it bored out?

    before you give me all kinds of suggestions about different engines, i want you to know i have already thought about crate motors (ht383, base 350 HO, ramjet 350)and converting mine to a 383 and being a poor colledge kid it's out of the question.
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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  3. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    I used to have a hand boring tool from the 50s. hard as daylights to turn and took about an hour per cylinder, but it was free. honing the cylinder was another story. I guees a machine shop would charge around 2-300. try customtruckshowcase.com and ask HighBoy90. He's a machinist he may know, but I'm not entirely sure he does that kind of work.
     
  4. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    hehehe thanks i haven't been on in a while.
     
  5. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Just call around to some of the machine shops and see how much they will charge to build up a short block the way you want it. Shouldn't cost more than 500-600 for all work and new parts including the gasket set. If you dont go too wild with performance stuff.
    That way you get it back with The bottom end all assembled. And should come with a 12 month warentee. Then all you need is to get the heads done. Bolt the heads and the other stuff on and yur ready to go. Should be able to do it all for around 800 or so depending on what you do to the valve train.
     
  6. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    hmmm sounds alright, i'll do that. all i want performance wise really is a roller cam and roller rockers. but they don't have to be done right away. the rockers anyway i just want around 300 horses, would that be possible? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. wheelin_willy

    wheelin_willy Registered Member

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    reboring a 350 costs 175-200 a true roller cam,lifter,and rocker setup will run 600-750 for good stuff worth every penny.
    to get 300 hundred horsepower in a chevy is pretty easy.here are my suggestions for a 4x4

    edlebrock air gap intake 200
    msd 6a ignition box 130 excellent
    msd coil 60
    msd wires 8.5 75
    9.25: pistons 220 includes all needed parts for your rebuild
    polish your heads free
    roller rockers 1.6 160 from summit
    comp cams with duration around 260
    optima battery...for msd 130
    good exhaust
    dial it in for close to 300
     
  8. Redfrog

    Redfrog 1/2 ton status

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    I have about $1500 or so in mine as of now,new crank,rods,pistons,balance job,vortec heads,intake,block work,gaskets,distributer,cam,lifters, But I have spent my time gathering parts at the best prices I could find so far I think I would have been better off just getting the "cheap" GM crate motor and being done with it but I would not have built it myself and Thats what it is all about /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    man, we pay about $8-$12 per cylinder for bored/hone around here

    NITRO
     
  10. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    If you want 300 Hp out of a TBI engine it will cost a bit more. The problem with TBI engines is they dont flow very well. Just putting in a performance cam wont help a whole lot.
    The heads are probabally the worst chevy ever put on truck engines. And the cam is..... well.....S### .Its hard to get 300 hp out of the stock heads/intake/ valvetrain
    Just ditching the heads and putting on Vortecs will give 40-50 Hp to it. But then you have to buy the manifold from Chevy performance parts for around $300 also.

    World SR torquer ll heads are also a good choice. And dont cost a whole lot
    Then get an Edelbrock Performer manifold and cam for TBI. The World center bolt Heads/ Edelbrock performer are a good combination and are a direct bolt on. Without all the mods needed for Vortecs. and should cost less than Vortec
    This will get you around the 300+ HP range assuming you have headers and good exhaust.
    You dont really need new ignition the stock ign is pretty good on TBIs. Just get a MSD blaster coil and you are good for over 5Krpm
    Also any mods you can do the TB to make it flow better will help a lot to gain power.
    All this stuff from :turbocity.com Works good and gives a good bang for the buck.
    This is about the cheapest/reliable way I know to get 300 + hp out of a TBI 350 with a stock bottom end(to keep costs down) And It will still cost less than a crate TBI performance engine
     
  11. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I put about a $1000 into the last 350 I rebuilt. I didnt have to work the heads though. I had to rebore with new pistons and have the crank turned. I bought everything from PAW.
     
  12. WhiteWhomper

    WhiteWhomper 1/2 ton status

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    Whatever you determine to be the estimated cost you will spend to rebuild your motor, pretty much double it for all the other crap that none of us think about and end up spending our hard earned cash on.
     
  13. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    I just put a remanufactured engine in mine. With an RV cam in it, the complete premium long block (rockers, pushrods) was $732 out the door. Unfortunately, I had both heads with two cracks, so my core got $200 less. Grand cost with all this:
    350 bored .040
    Performance RV cam
    Gasket set
    Engine paint
    New exhaust studs
    Motor mounts
    Tranny mounts
    Oil Pump Screen
    Water Pump
    Starter
    Flexplate Bolts
    $1,200 done myself in 5 days

    Most rebuild shops wanted $950 if I yanked the engine and took it to them while others wanted $1,600 for them to do all the work. Either way, it ain't cheap. Doing it yourself while help save you a lot, but make sure you have all the right tools.
     
  14. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    BTW...this is out of the GM Performance Parts Catalog :

    Vortec head (p/n 12558060) can be converted to the 12 bolt intake design by using GM intake manifold gasket (p/n 10148096), marking the six new bolt locations and drilling holes for 3/8" x 16 bolts.
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Save up your money and get a different block.

    BTDT (Been there doing that) with the roller retrofit cams. COMPLETE waste of money. The lifters suck, (you can buy $400 lifters, or $500 ones that are "stronger"..why do you need to have two lifters, one of which will last for daily driving??) and the prices are insane. ($800 for cam/lifters alone...new 4 bolt main, one piece rear seal, roller cam long block=$1400)

    Boring is $10/cylinder here, plus at least $100 for pistons, then rod resizing ($40?) then $40-80 for rings. Of course, if you don't have to bore, (machine shop will tell you) you may consider not doing so, the gain isn't worth it for a street motor, and it just costs more. Of course, there is a downside in longevity, but if you just need it to run 50,000 more miles, and a hone cleans up the cylinders, you'll be fine.

    The Vortec heads are GREAT. EXCEPT you lose EGR. If you don't want it fine, no biggie, but if you want/need it, it's a $60 kit from SDPC2000.com, plus the work plumbing it. Oh yeah, the "cheap" Vortec's need new springs to handle roller cams that have any sort of lift, (even .450) either you pay $320 each for the Vortecs already modified, or pay a machine shop between $150-200 to do it for you. Don't forget the intake. You can get Edelbrock AL heads that are about $1k, allow you to use the stock TBI intake,(apparently) and retain stock EGR. http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/headsbchev.html part #60859.

    Of course, the reviews on these heads say they don't flow very well, but not seen anything comparing them to Vortecs. At least the valve spring problem is already solved, and the 60CC chamber should still allow 87 octane since they are AL and also "fastburn" chambers. Of course, if you are doing away with EGR, I'd go with these http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=277&pid=144 /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    AL heads seem like a lot, but realistically, you are looking at $640 Vortecs that will work with a roller cam, the special intake at another $300 (someone quoted that, I didn't check) and so on, which adds up to the $1000-1250 that AL heads run.

    Getting off of my AL headed horse, Dart (World) may make some iron heads that are great for your application, but really, the AL head market seems to have much more of a selection of intake styles, port designs, EGR, etc., than what I've found of the iron head market.

    Any way you go, the roller cam is not likely to achieve the gains you will see from going with better heads, and certainly, better heads will do nothing but help with whatever cam you select.

    This all sounds like a lot of money, but if you want to build ANYTHING over a stock motor, you are going to pay.
     
  16. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    I just had mine rebuilt and it cost about 900, not including the cam.

    Here's what I did:
    bored .030, about $150 with deck plate, I think $80 without it
    crank turned
    all new bearings
    freeze plugs
    KB hyp. flattop pistions
    rings
    block cleaned and checked
    welded block by starter mounting
    assembled, $120
    rods checked

    I had the heads rebuilt a couple years ago and it cost $190. I got the cam seperately and it cost about $190 with shipping.
     

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