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Cracks in engine X-member- Need advice on removal

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by FWP, Jan 7, 2007.

  1. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Does anyone have any tips-tricks-etc? I want to remove it completely to get a good repair on it. From the looks of it, It's bolted on, the drivers side motor mount is on top of the lower lip of the x-member, and the passenger side motor mount is behind the crossmember vertical.

    Can I get it out without pulling the motor? I'd like to get it out with disassembling as little as possible.

    Thanks for any help,

    Fred
     
  2. noahrob

    noahrob 1/2 ton status Author

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    Hey Fred,

    I hate to post bad news, but I had to remove the engine mount pads (I removed the drivers side) to get the cross memeber out. So, with the engine in, you would need to jack it up a little, unbolt both lower engine mounts, then somehow get the weight off one side to remove the pad, take it out, then slide out the x memeber...I have never done this with the engine in, so this is all speculation. In fact, I welded my old cross memeber in place with a three pass (and very ugly at that) becuase I didn't want to mess with getting it out...


    Here is a picture, on the passenger side, under the new lower engine mount is what I am calling the pad.

    Picture 009.jpg
     
  3. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Ok, thanks man. I'm gonna start jacking up the motor and pulling bolts now. I'll check back in a bit, see if anyone else has something to add.
     
  4. onebig76k5

    onebig76k5 Registered Member

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    Go with the ORD engine cross member. It is much stronger than the stock. there is a good chance that even with a weld fix that the OEM cross member will crack again. To remove your old X-member you can saw-zaw it. The ORD is a bolt in replacement as seen in the previous reply pic. It will strengthen the frame around the motor mounts. You will have support the engine to replace. Not a hard Job weekend project. Go with the Big Block cross memeber to avoid oil pan clearance issues.
     
  5. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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  6. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    appears noahrob beat me to that one... :rolleyes:
     
  7. 5280k5

    5280k5 1/2 ton status

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    This is what I'll be doing next weekend, only my crack is in the driverside framerail where the motor mount supports bolt up. The crossmember bolts loosened up and one fell out causing extra stress on the remaining bolt and a crack spidered out around the bolt hole:mad: I plan on cutting out the old crossmember with the motor hanging on an engine hoist and replacing it with the ORD one and DIY motor mounts. Keep us posted with your progress and good luck!
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    What year are you dealing with?

    Welding it up probably won't help if it's an earlier one, as GM ended up adding twice as much material in the crack prone areas (via riveted on pieces) and welding isn't going to accomplish that.

    The ORD piece looks very nice. Removing stock crossmembers is a bit of a pain, after having done mine, I think I'd rather just pull one and install a brand new piece instead of removing two (bad one/donor one) and installing. I even ended up tack welding the vertical/top frame bolts for the engine mount "pads" to the pad so I didn't have to get a wrench on the back side anymore.
     
  9. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Andrew & Eli built a jig for making a new engine crossmember for crossover Fred. They may be able to slap one together for you ASAP so you can put in a beefy x-member or at least have one down the road to replace the stocker you may weld back together.

    Harley
     
  10. noahrob

    noahrob 1/2 ton status Author

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    5280K5, is your frame cracked due to the steering box? Man, my frame almost came apart there...

    I just put in the ORD cross memeber with the DIY4x engine mounts. I spent more time getting the holes drilled and that cross memeber on than getting the engine in...what a PITA, but it is totally killer now that it is in...Also, I had the ORD crossmember in, then had to take it off to get the engine in, to clear the oil pan.
     
  11. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    It's out. Thanks for the replies guys. Took me a little bit to get it out. I use 2 crossmembers at the t-cases, one for the 203 adapter, and one for the doubler adapter. Had to drop my tank skidplate, and pull the bolts for the 203 completely out, and loosen the doubler adapter bolts. Netted about
    1-1/2" clearance at the motor mounts.

    Thanks to Noahrob, right on the money- pulled the drivers side motor mount to frame bracket, and the x-member came right out. Good thing I took it apart- the drivers side motor mount is toast. Both are getting replaced.

    I'm beefing this myself. Frankly, I give the rest of the frame 1, maybe 2 more years if I'm lucky. 124:1 (auto) crawl ratio and 42s with regular wheeling like this does wonders for stock ladder frames... :)


    [​IMG]
     
  12. noahrob

    noahrob 1/2 ton status Author

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    Cool, glad it worked out, cool rig!
     
  13. 5280k5

    5280k5 1/2 ton status

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    No, the frame by the steering box is ok. It's actually where the motor mount
    support bolts to the frame in the driver fenderwell area just before where the brakeline pops through. But that reminds me, time to retorque steering box bolts!
     

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