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Crankshaft Options

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TexasT, Apr 22, 2003.

  1. TexasT

    TexasT Registered Member

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    Well I would like some more input from the veterans. I found this crank at Flatlander.com
    BBC OEM Replacement Nodular Iron Crankshaft
    PART #
    DESCRIPTION
    PRICE

    CRC-1-70 454 2.7497 Main 2.2000 Rod 4.00 Stroke
    2 piece rear main seal $229
    Is nodular iron any good? I really don't have the budget for a fancy forged crank. This engine will be going into an '85 Suburban tow vehicle so I don't think it will see the top side of 5k rpm. I have been scouring ebay and the like for a good used crank but haven't come up with anything and was thinking after a trip to the machine shop with a used one it could come close to the price of this new one, especially if the used one didn't pass mangnaflux. Any thoughts as to where I could get a new or used crank in this $50 to $275 range? Thanks

    Rich
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Unless there is a major difference between SBC and BBC crank construction, cast iron sounds plenty strong for your application.

    The price I can't comment on, most everything BBC is more expensive.

    FWIW having a SBC crank polished (perhaps turned) around here costs $75. Crank is one engine component I won't "splurge" on. I know my application won't require it, and the extra expense for a fancy one can't be justified if you just won't need it.

    When talking the price you are, you may be correct, that after acquisition cost and machine work, it may be the same cost as getting the one you mentioned. Just gotta do some searching and see.
     
  3. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    The nodular iron cranks are supposedly like 30% stronger than a stock OEM cast iron one (I read that in several different websites). I saw the crank you're looking at in the Flatlander website, that's a decent choice. Check out www.speedomotive.com, they have very reasonable prices too.
     
  4. Bruiser

    Bruiser 1/2 ton status

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    Checking the machine shop is always a good idea. There are many people out there who drop stuff off at the machine shop then never pick it up. A lot of the time you can find stuff for the cost of the machine work. And if your never going to see above 5k on a regular basis or use nitrous then a stock cast crank will work great for you. All the books I have read this religiuosly.
     
  5. TWISTEDJACK

    TWISTEDJACK 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Be careful ordering from speed-o-motive, I ordered my crank kit from them. Took two months to get and after I finally got the kit they balanced it with the wrong rods /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I didn't want to wait another 2 months so I had it rebalanced locally with the correct rods. The crank I bought was a good price and good quality. I would just have it balanced locally their machine shop is sloooooooooow. It has been 3 months since I ordered the kit, Saturday I finally get to fire it up. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I know people that race at 6500RPM (circle track) all season on cast cranks. SBC, but still.

    Cast isn't as weak as it was once made out to be. I'm not saying race motors should use cast cranks, just that they are pretty strong, and strong enough for most applications.
     

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