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Crappy brakes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by DUKSRULE, Feb 12, 2002.

  1. DUKSRULE

    DUKSRULE 1/2 ton status

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    Ok I have a 86 3/4 ton 4X4. The brakes will stop the truck but the pedal goes to the floor. I replaced front and rear brakes and the master cylender. What else could be the problem? I thought maybe the soft lines are swelling under pressure so I have some new braided lines on order. I know the brakes aren't famous for their quality but at least the peddal shouldn't go to the floor. I have also blead them a few times. Could it be that hieght sencing valve? Are there any cons to just removing that and having full pressure at all times?
     
  2. Greenblazer-AZ

    Greenblazer-AZ 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry I can't answer your question, but whatever you do stay away from Just Brakes. I went to the shop on Scottsdale Rd in Scottsdale to have them change one of my brake lines and bleed the brakes and after almost five hours I left with only the brakes bled. They tried to sell me on a new master which they didn't have in stock. I had to walk to Autozone to get one. Autozone sold me the wrong one and told me it would fit even though I told them it didn't look like the right one. The Just Brakes guys were going to send me out of the shop without even bleeding the massive amounts of air that were in the lines from when I changed the passenger side brake line. I said to them "You guys are actually going to send me out on the street with all that air in the system? Can't you at least bleed the brakes?"I said. They told me that it wouldn't do any good because of the master cylinder leak. I knew this was BS because the brakes have been working fine for weeks as long as I kept the fluid full(the passenger sid line was obviously leaking that's why I changed it first), and when I complained further they finally bled the air out of the system so I could drive with brakes that would stop the rig. When I changed the first brake line I had no one to help me bleed the brakes, and after the problems I had doing the first one I thought it would be worth it to pay a shop to do it. Boy was I wrong, I now have the right master and as soon as I get the time and the help I will finish the job myself even if I have to use the gravity bleed overnight method.

    If you knew the truth, you too would be against marijuana prohibition!
    Blue '74Blazer Topless W/ 35 BFG Muds1" Body Lift W/ Energy Susp. Bushings
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Well that hight sencing proporting valve could be causing an issue if the truck is lifted you need to put an extension on the link. Failure to do so and the valve will think it's unloaded all the time.
    When my brakes get to feeling bad I usualy find its the rear drums out of adjustment. If you get some mud in them they will wear faster than the adjuster can keep up. The proportion valve will try to ballance the front an rear pressure but it becomes more than it can accomidate. Adjust the rears up till you can feel some drag and try it out. Drums turned beyond their limits will also cause you issues that the adjuster can't make up for.
    Over sized tires also doesn't help. it puts more leverage on the brakes so a minor problem that would not be noticable on stock hight tires will become very noticeable.
    I have also found cheap pads on the front don't cut it. I'm running Rayspestos Gold (Pep girls). Big difference. they don't seem to fade after a couple hard stops. The first stop you need to be easy. These pads seem to need a little heat before the perform good.
    Also glazed rotors will make for poor stopping. Get them turned to get a good smooth surface fore the bads to seat to.
    As for removing the load valve...Not sure. You may need to swap out the propotioning valve on the fromt crossmember to do it. It may be biased knowing that valve is in the rear or you may not have that proportioning valve and may need to add one.

    Women dig dents and flat paint!
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    Grim-Reaper
     

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