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Creating a "unibody"

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Paxx, Oct 12, 2006.

  1. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    I am curious if there is any good reason for keeping the body separate from the frame. I'm looking over cage and boatsiding options right now and it seems like it would be a whole lot easier to just combine the two.

    So why should I keep the rubber mounts?
     
  2. tlspeed

    tlspeed Registered Member

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    I dont know if its the right thing to do or not, but that is what I plan on doing when I boatside and add a cage to my k10 this winter. Basically its no different than a buggy then if its mounted solid. I say go for it. -tlspeed-
     
  3. PsychoticDeadGuy

    PsychoticDeadGuy 1/2 ton status

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    The rubber mounts are there so the frame can flex seperatly from the body and not crack seems, etc in your body panels. But if you have a strong cage that ties into the body and frame then you will be fine. Go for it if you have a good cage...
     
  4. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If you don't make your first priority eliminating frame flex totally and completely, you're going to have much bigger problems to worry about in the end.
     
  5. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    X2

    The cage needs to be designed as a load bearing structure, not just a safety device. Keep in mind that there is no such thing as a perfectly rigid structure. Even buggy's have flex in them. It's probably not a significant amount though. Just keep that in mind when you start attaching the body to the frame.

    Were it me I'd build the cage to the body & make the boatside sliders part of that structure. Make that all as rigid as reasonably possible. Then bolt the cage/body to the frame & engine cage with Hega Joints (urethane bushings in tube sleaves) under each of the hoop legs and any other good spots. Run at least two of the Hega Joint thru bolts perpendicular to all of the other bolts.
     
  6. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    My Cage is tied to the body then to the frame, all solid mounts. My cage goes from the front bumper all the way to the rear of the truck. I have pretty much zero frame flex. The suspension seems to work 100% better now doing all the work.

    Here are some pics of the cage and how it is tied to the frame.
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  7. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    Well my reason for asking is because with the body separate from the frame I was twisting the frame bad enough that the body was getting twisted hard enough that I had popped off all the spot welds holding the body panels in place. I will also be doing a full convertible conversion when the cage goes in. I figure that the whole cage can't twist as much the body used to so it should be better off tied right in.

    My cage will be tied into the frame as I feel this is the safer way to go. Also I don't forsee nearly as much frame flex with the coilovers as I did with the leaf sprung set-up. My cage will also be around a 22 point design, as I plan on jumping the truck. Add this to the additional crossmembers from the doubler and the stout bumpers and I don't think it will be moving too much.

    ntsqd - do you have any pics of these hega joints? I'm interested in seeing them.

    cegusman - your truck looks good. I followed your build up somewhat and I like how it turned out.
     
  8. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Box your frame.
     

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