Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Critique mah cage

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Aug 27, 2006.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    What does everyone think about the "Y" shape in the rear hoop? I am thinking about putting some more braces in the lower part that only has the vertical pieces in it. I don't know what to think yet.

    I am also going to put in some gussets here and there.

    Oh yeah, and the "X" across the halo, that is coming this week too. Any who I am a beginner so dont be to harsh.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2005
    Posts:
    3,368
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Irmo, SC
    I don't see anything wrong with that.
     
  3. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    One more thing. Easy on the booger weld comments a few didn't turn out so well and I am already well aware of it.....:doah:
     
  4. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2003
    Posts:
    10,276
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Elkhart, IN
    one thing i might have done differently (although it probably has no bearing on the strength of the cage) would've been changing the door bars to a more aestheticly pleasing X. other than that, looks decent. what does the bottom of the Y's in the rear hoop look like?
     
  5. GotLabs

    GotLabs 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2005
    Posts:
    2,795
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Transient, USA
    Looks good to me, of course I suck at welding also:D .
     
  6. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    Here is how it attaches to the frame. We took two small pieces and ran them straight up through the floor and put a longer piece across the top. The vertical part of the "Y" comes down almost on top of the frame tie in


    I agree on the door "X" but I need a large enough space to get my very fat ass into so I had to make the upper right hand piece perfrectly level...

    Picture 007-1.jpg
     
  7. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2005
    Posts:
    3,368
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Irmo, SC
    Didn't notice before, but I'm diggin the whole bench seat and tube vibe....
     
  8. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Why the Y? the bottom portion for cage isn't as strong as the top.
     
  9. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    I am getting one of the sweet aztec print seat covers for it. :bow::pimp1:


    I guess I got to this point and stopped it is not done yet.
     
  10. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2005
    Posts:
    3,368
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Irmo, SC
    Well that then completes it.

    Reminds me of my first truck.
     
  11. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    I am considering this but man, that is a lot of fitting and notching. I guess I got wore out and quit with the "Y"

    Picture 0099.JPG
     
  12. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2002
    Posts:
    16,870
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, TX
  13. retroblazer

    retroblazer 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2003
    Posts:
    280
    Likes Received:
    148
    Location:
    Gustine
    cage work

    If you're just playing, I wouldn't change anything, but if you know you're going to be on your roof, then I'd add some gussets to the corners. I also assume you're going to have some down bars to the rear.
     
  14. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    Thanks for the input I guess.
     
  15. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    3,951
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin,TX
    Im the exact opposite. I think you are going to kill yourself in a roll if you keep it.
    As for the Y's in the back, instead of completing the X's you just need the outer most braces, the ones that go to the center wont do much for strength.
    Another thing is your door bar design. It leaves a huge hole for rock, trees, etc to get in there and stab the people. Add a bar about arm pit level and you will get my check mark:D
    Also what size welder is that?? Looks like a 135amper or below. I wouldnt trust a cage welded with that welder running gas. If it was flux core no problem.
    Last but not least cut the rest of that cab off, just looks ghetto to me;)

    I dont mean to criticise your design that much but you asked for input:D

    Your link setup does look nice though.
    -Chris
     
  16. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 4, 2001
    Posts:
    2,129
    Likes Received:
    21
    Location:
    El Paso, TEXAS
    what he said. looks good but not a fan of the door bars either. I like the fact thats its different.

    keep the pics commin
     
  17. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2004
    Posts:
    10,453
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Minnesota
    I'd add some "kicker" bars that run from the rear portion of the top of the halo to the rearmost point that's solid. I'm sure it'll be fine but I'm a little O/C. I do agree on the door bar comments however.

    I've been told by more than one tube buggy owner that the design I came up with for my truggy/buggy was "way overkill".
     
  18. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2000
    Posts:
    2,663
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Iowa
    I am going to put an X in the middle lower box and tie it to the frame, I am leaving out the red side braces unless some one thinks it is a bad idea. The welder is a Lincoln 175HD 220V.

    As for the door braces, I got to building them and realized I had to do something different or I wouldn't be able to get my enormous torso in the vehicle. The way it sits right now I look like an elefant getting into an yugo so the door braces have to stay the way they are. People will just have to get poked and/or crushed until Jenny Craig comes through for me.

    I assume the whole kill myself in a roll comment is directed at me having the seat mounted to the tub and the frame to the cage? Give me some more input on this. I am not trying to sound like a dick when I say that either.

    I still have the whole tube bed to make which will be tied into the frame and come off the rear hoop. There will be kickers coming off the top of the rear hoop and tie into the bed and the tube coming off the rear crossemeber. I am going to do a \ | / for the roof instead of an "X"


    [​IMG]
     
  19. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2004
    Posts:
    3,951
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin,TX
    I would add the red ones before any of the others.

    Good to hear the welder is a 175.

    The bench seat comment was more ment towards the fact that even with harness you are going to move around ALOT in a roll. Call up Summit and get some cheap plastic seats.

    Eveything else sou nds good though:D
     
  20. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2003
    Posts:
    3,065
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Colorado
    The whole thing is a bit strange and starting into the overkill and weighing to much.

    It however does look good and I would only add the purple or green line in your last pic. You don't need both IMO. The Y design up top is so strong that you just need a bit of triangulation below to keep the lower section at the B hoop from racking.
    PLEASE do something to the door bar area. You don't have to add more above the bars you have in there but you do need something to stabilize the diagnal bar that runs high on the B pillar to low on the A pillar. Try putting a tube from the base of the B pillar to the base of the A pillar.

    Remeber strength is all about triangles. You just have open triangles in that area, close them up. Tubing size and dia. are not everything.
     

Share This Page