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crooked steering wheel and TRE adjustment

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by R72K5, Jan 12, 2004.

  1. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    ok my all stock 83 K20 has problem of steering wheel being turned to the right quite a bit when going down the road, it was like this before i replaced driver wsdie TRE, i have yet to make TRE adjustment in order to lengthen TRE rod overall length to make it around 57 3/4" from grease zerk to other zerk just like my stepdads 82 K10 is, right now it is about 57 1/4"

    when i lengthen TRE will it straighten my wheel ? and this will toe out both wheels evenly ?

    what method can i use to very accurately measure from inner outer edge of one front rim over to the other to check toe ? do i want toe in or toe out ?

    thanks
     
  2. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    Changing the length of the tie rod will only help a little. You need to adjust the length of the drag link to center the wheel.
     
  3. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Set the tie rod (center link) length like we discussed before. I prefer a 1/4" difference from the back of the tire to the front of the tire so there is just a little bit of toe in. You then use the draglink to adjust where the steering wheel resides.
     
  4. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Changing the length of the tie rod will only help a little. You need to adjust the length of the drag link to center the wheel.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    how could this have changed over the years on an all stock original rig ?

    lengthening or shortening drag link length will change steering wheel position, which would make wheel move to left, or to right ?

    thanks
     
  5. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Set the tie rod (center link) length like we discussed before. I prefer a 1/4" difference from the back of the tire to the front of the tire so there is just a little bit of toe in. You then use the draglink to adjust where the steering wheel resides.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    cool thanks, good accurate method of measuring such ? tape measure is just too innacurate really, and tricky too.

    i want ot try and tackle this today, supposed to be nicer weather out today, up around 40!
    hope i can get everything broken loose, hmm really rusty frozen threads.,

    thanks
     
  6. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    "how could this have changed over the years on an all stock original rig ?"

    Curbs, potholes, road debris speed bumps, rocks, parking blocks ect ect. and dot forget wear.
     
  7. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    "how could this have changed over the years on an all stock original rig ?"

    Curbs, potholes, road debris speed bumps, rocks, parking blocks ect ect. and dot forget wear.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    ok, you win, good point there, lol

    so actually problem will most likely lies in bent or worn parts then, IE drag link parts ?

    humm..

    thanks
     
  8. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    58" backside and 57 5/8" front side,

    both measurements plus 2 and 9/16" for tape measure casing length




    reason why i believe it needs the TRE pipe elongated is cuz its about 3/4" shorter than what my stepdads 82 4x4 is set at, from one TRE's zerk to the other TRE's zerk


    what you think i should do ?

    i went ahead and just now lengthened the TRE pipe almost one full revolution/thread, going to see how that does on road now in a little bit, hope jam nuts stay tight against ends of pipe, ., right now after this adjustment my front toe in is about 1/8" less than the rear toe out and also i see that if i shorten my draglink overall length that it would make my steering wheel go from too far right back to center, so that means my drag link is stretched and that is most likely coming from the stud ends of the link being worn evne though they are not sloppy when you grab hold of entire link and try to move it around at each end

    or is it not shortening drag link that moves wheel to left ? am i backwards on that ?

    as soon as i know for sure then i will probably just remove entire drag link and break threads sleeves loose with it clamped in the bench vise so i can clean it all up and also check for worn ends at the same time.
    truck seems to drive pretty well after TRE adjustment earlier, other than crooked steering wheel



    thanks
     
  9. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    My dad used to use a long broom handle with a washer screwed on the end of it. Pretty much the same thing as an axle tube scraper only with a longer handle. He used a piece of tape to mark the broom handle and then compared it on the other side. The washer on the end is used to hook the tread on the opposite tire. This method works pretty good by yourself but if you have an odd tread design it might be hard to hook the same spot on a lug on both sides of the tire.

    For adjusting the sleeve, at least on any of the 4 or 5 spare draglinks I have, you have to use a tool because it's all rusty.

    I ended up buying an entirely new draglink for my truck. The sleeve was ~$10, the pitman arm joint was ~$32, and the steering arm joint was ~$26 if I remember correctly. I recommend buying a new sleeve at least because I had my old one loosen up on me after I replaced the pitman arm joint.


    The one I use is one of these two (Snap-on part number WA12A or WA13A), I don't remember because my dad has both:
    WA12A
    WA13A
     
  10. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    yeah rust is the biggest probleml, im probably maybe gonna have to just wait until i find work to do this repair, hmm..


    thanks
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    IIRC, whichever direction you turn the drag link "sleeve" is the direction the wheel moves. CW the wheel moves CW, and CCW is CCW at the wheel.

    Took me a few attempts to center mine perfectly, I just left the drag link sleeve loose enough that I could turn it with a pipe wrench, and took it for a short drive, stopping and adjusting it until it was perfect. Every time I tried it without driving, it "changed" when I actually got on the road.
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    so actually problem will most likely lies in bent or worn parts then, IE drag link parts ?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ever think that the springs just have sagged a bit from when the rig was new?
     
  13. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    IIRC, whichever direction you turn the drag link "sleeve" is the direction the wheel moves. CW the wheel moves CW, and CCW is CCW at the wheel.

    Took me a few attempts to center mine perfectly, I just left the drag link sleeve loose enough that I could turn it with a pipe wrench, and took it for a short drive, stopping and adjusting it until it was perfect. Every time I tried it without driving, it "changed" when I actually got on the road.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    cool thanks /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  14. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    so actually problem will most likely lies in bent or worn parts then, IE drag link parts ?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ever think that the springs just have sagged a bit from when the rig was new?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    nope cuz nothing is wrong with them


    my drag link is perfectly straight across level and the springs are about straight across, i would have noticed such a phenomenom if it existed and was happening, but it isnt, the springs up front are in great shape, they look to be replacements actually, but the rears are old rsyted cracked broken originals for sure.


    thanks
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    They're over 20 years old. I'm sure they're sagged some at least, which is why your steering wheel isn't perfectly aligned.
     

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