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Cross over steering question!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by blazen91, Dec 3, 2000.

  1. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    On my 91 10 bolt front, I do not have the flat knuckle, so I need to change it to a Dana 44 knuckle. This I know. My question, do I have to change both knuckles or are they the same except the top? Question no. two, is it possible to keep my sway bar or an after market one since it is a daily? TIA

    blazen91
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  2. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Anwser to question number 1 is No you dont have to change both of them, you have to either get the flat top knuckle's tie rod hole reamed to take the tie rod from the same as your drivers side one, or have both of them drilled out to use rod ends and a different tie rod.

    Question number 2's answer is Yes you will have to remove the sway bar to make this work if you plan on wheeling it, I think you could keep if for just street use, but you would have to bolt it on and off every time you wanted it. It gets in the way of the drag link.

    Depdog

    <font color=blue>"Lead, Follow, or BECOME the Trail"</font color=blue>

    http://depdogsk5.coloradok5.com
     
  3. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Question 1 Could I use Hiem joints instead of ball joints? I beleive you said in your reveiw that I could, but you wanted something that was easy to find any where.And if I did use them would they flex enough?
    Question 2 Would the ORD disconnect work with this application or does it have to be totally off?
    I thank you for your input.

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
    <font color=red>Not FROM the people</font color=red>
     
  4. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Another thought to question 1- If I make my own drag link out of DOM, could I use the stock ball joint to the stearing box at the box and the stock ball joint at the knuckle at the knuckle?
    I hope I said that in a way you understood, because I'm not sure I did![​IMG]

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
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  5. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    You can use DOM tubing but then you need to have some tap it for you or buy the taps which can be expensive. The GM tie rod (only 1 tap) or a RockRod from rockstomper.com might be a better way to go ($75). Can use the ORD quick disconnect. I don't like Heim joints but thats just me. I like the stock tie rod ends that you can grease and are protected. I've heard from so many that Heim joints have a short life.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods[​IMG]
     
  6. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Were they the regular heims or the teflon jacked ones?
    Do the d44 knuckles use the same ball joints that the 10b knuckle use?
    I'm sorry for all the questions, but before I start a project I like to have as much info as possible.

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
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  7. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    Stuff to watch out for:
    10 bolt knuckles have a different tie rod arm height in addition to a different direction taper. It's pretty minor, but you'd probably want to use matching knuckles. It's easier to swap both than to machine the taper anyway.
    Depending on your front spring configuration and arch, and tie rod diameter, you may be able to go to a heim jointed tie rod and put it on top of the stock knuckle arm. This gives good clearance and it can't bend since it'll probably hit the spring before it goes too far.
    Heims vs tie rod ends? Heims seem to hold up ok in rotational applications, where they have a lot of angular motion, they wear a little quicker. A tie rod basically rotates only, so I wouldn't worry about it there if you have a good reason to drill them out and use heims. If you don't have a good reason like clearance or cheap replacements or double shear mounts, use the tie rod ends, they work just fine.
    on the draglink, you shouldn't have any problems using tie rod ends on both ends, as long as you have clearance for them.



    SW-ORD
     
  8. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    On my 74 with a dana 44 the tie rods come in from the top, on a 10 bolt are they from the bottom?

    I thought I was wrong once,
    but I was mistaken
     
  9. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    You can use Heims if you want, I dont care for them on the steering so thats why I did not. It might be easier for some people though. On My K5 the Sway bar was in the way with or without the ord shackle disconnects. I sold mine to a friend.

    The 10 bolt ball joints are the same as the Dana 44 ones.

    Depdog

    <font color=blue>"Lead, Follow, or BECOME the Trail"</font color=blue>

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  10. californiak5

    californiak5 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Shawn,
    Did the guys from Rockstomper set you up with both the Tie rod and the Drag link? And if so how much did it set you back? Your set up looks great. With that bent Drag link did you have to do anything with the crossmember? It does not look like it. Sorry for all the ?'s I am looking into doing my K5 but I don't like the idea of messing with the crossmember. Thanks in advance.

    [​IMG] I have to agree with the Puddy Cat. [​IMG]
     
  11. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks all for answering my questions. Between these and the how to in the Tech. section, I shouldn't have any more questions.

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
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  12. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Yes, Scott at rockstomper did both tie rod and drag link. They cost $75 each which is a good deal considering the factory GM tie rod cost the same price. They also came R & L hand thread tapped at both ends and cut any length you want. He didn't charge me extra on the drag link but I'm not sure if that was a special deal or not since I bought 2. No mods to the crossmember have to be done.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods[​IMG]
     
  13. wstolar

    wstolar Registered Member

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    Shawn,
    Do you get any bumpsteer with the bent draglink? I was just wondering if I should go with the bent one or modify my crossmember and go with the straight draglink when I doing the x-over.

    Thanks - Walter
     
  14. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Nope, you shouldn't get ANY bumpsteer with a crossover. The drop won't have any affect.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods[​IMG]
     
  15. realsquash

    realsquash 1/2 ton status

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    FYI! You CAN have a sway-bar with a crossover steering setup with disconnects! There are a few companies out there that make a "torsional" swaybar (sway-away somes to mind), and it would be very easy to adapt it to a blazer. It is basically a steel shaft that spans the frame where the OEM swaybar bushings are, but it has 2 arms that are *parallel* to the frame with a couple of heim joints and rod to hook them up to the spring pads. You could even rig up some disconnects pretty easilly :) Shouldn't be THAT expensive, but would be very trick with crossover steering!

    Squash
    http://www.trailrunners4x4.org/users/realsquash
     
  16. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the idea. I may be able to modify the stocker to work like that. I'll let you all know if I come up with something.

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
    <font color=red>Not FROM the people</font color=red>
     

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