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Crossover...Bent ot straight draglink

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by readymix, Jan 16, 2005.

  1. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    What are the benifits of running a straight draglink. I understand that the bent one is too clear the engine crossmember, but i could just build a new one if the straight draglink is better.
     
  2. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Straight drag link is just cheaper, the bent one not only clears the crossmember but it also runs the TRE's at better angles to the mating parts making them last a lot longer.
     
  3. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Some belive the bent drag links can ontinue to bend if enough force is placed on them. I built my own bent drag link (and another for a buddy) and have yet to have any problems with either of them.
     
  4. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    what they said. I have a bent one from rockstomper, zero problems.

    j
     
  5. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I have the other one built by az-k5 and it works great. It barely touches the engine crossmember and the TRE angles are better then if you run a straight draglink. Our draglinks are made from 1.5" .250 wall DOM.

    Harley
     
  6. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I would say the angles play a huge role in weather it is straight or bent. Mine I would say is the max static angle you would want without a bend in it.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Why would the angle matter? Other than the effeciency of the steering system.
     
  8. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    The steeper the angle, the faster the TRE's will wear out
     
  9. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Of course.....not sure why i even asked that question.
     
  10. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Mines bent from Sky, but it was because I have a big lift!
     
  11. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I'm running some "high angle" joints from ORD but if your not careful with the angle not only will wear be an issue but you can limit the axle/steering when articulated.
     
  12. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Bends turn the draglink into a spring. The larger the bends, the more it will spring under load. At slow speed you may not even notice this, or care if you did notice. At hwy speeds this could be a problem.

    It is easier to cause a bend failure in an already bent link. You best friend there is OD, not so much wall thickness.

    The better, and much more difficult, solution is to lower the steering box (drop pitman's wear out the box) and raise the steering arm on the knuckle. Didn't say this was the practical solution, just the better solution. :)
     
  13. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    That is a horrible solution. Your u-bolt plate would go right for the pitman arm and the raising of the arm on the knuckle cause extra leverage on an already stressed and questionable stud design. I have to limit my up travel just to keep that from happening as it sits right now (4" springs) and have seen 4 different arms shear off on 4 different vehicles.

    There is a lot, (and I do mean a lot) of hearsay crap on x-over. The spring in the bent link is less than negligible (but does exist) when you take into account bushing/leaf spring give (don't forget tire squirm). I also strongly believe that I would rather have my link bend heavily than have a straight link shear a TRE. It takes nearly the same force to do either.

    There is not any difference in an ORD sold TRE than the ones you get at the local parts store. If there was a company making some "special end" than it would be all over the net, or so costly to make that it would not be marketable.

    Bottom line, a bent link allow a better angle on the TRE's and clears the factory x-member usually without further modification. Those are the two main reasons to run one. If you are going to go hydro assist as well than there should be no worry about bending an already bent piece. You will shear the ends on the tie-rod or break a knuckle first.
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I run a Sky bent link, and a hydro ram.

    May go full hydro but other than that no complaints at all about my $320 crossover and $100 hydro.
     
  15. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    I prefer the bent style due to reduced operating angles. Mine came from ORD several years ago. I've had no problems with it, but I did twist off a few sector shafts before going to hydro assist.
     
  16. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Note that I didn't say it was the practical solution, just a better one. I'll take a straight draglink over a bent one any time it's reasonable to do it.

    I'd like to see that data.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2005
  17. jstevenj

    jstevenj Registered Member

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    Mine is straight with 8" lift

    here's a pic
    [​IMG]
     
  18. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    Who made that mount for the axle side of your Hyd ram??
     
  19. jstevenj

    jstevenj Registered Member

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    I made it

    I made it as well as all the mod's.

    crosover steering arm
    clocked pitman arm on stock 4x4 steering box
    draglink
    rear disc brakes
    twin stick for 205

    http://jkwoffroad.com

    Thanks, Steven
     
  20. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    Do you still make the crossover arm for the 4wd box? If so, how much is it?
     

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