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Crossover Confusion (searches done)

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 77fixer, Sep 7, 2002.

  1. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    I've done several searches and am still confused. What different parts/approaches are there for the D60 crossover. What are the differences in the ends, draglink ends, tie-rod ends, 1ton ends vs. _? Which pitman arm and years, furd van, f150? Does the pitman arm have to be re-tapered? With which ends?
    /forums/images/icons/confused.gif /forums/images/icons/confused.gif /forums/images/icons/confused.gif
     
  2. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    You should save yourself the headache, and call Steve @ ORD and ask him which direction to go. You seem to know enough to make an educated decision... but you are a little confused. I would just drop Steve a line, and let him straighten you out! /forums/images/icons/wink.gif

    -Dan
     
  3. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    to use chevy draglink ends es2026r and es2027L you have to retaper the pitman

    to use chev tie rod ends es2234r and es2010L you do not have to retaper the pitman

    now the steering arm has to have the same depth taper as well so be sure to check with the creator of the piece.

    it is easier to use the 2234 and 2010 as off the shelf seems to be made for them, of course you can use whatever you want

    image of the ends and 1.25"x.219" wall tubing used for tierod and draglink
     
  4. 77fixer

    77fixer 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks MJ. Why do people use DLEs? Are they supposed to be stronger? Is the taper larger, longer, and/or different angle? I've also heard of using 1ton TREs, are they different yet?

    Just looked at my D60. The threads appear larger on the TRE vs. my DLE.

    OK. I think I've got it figured out. I can use a furd van pitman arm(what years) or 78-79 Ford F150, 76-79 Bronco, and 74-90 Fullsize Wagoneer/Cherokee dropped arm(eg. SUP-1104) with ES2234R and ES2010L on a straight draglink or (2)ES2234R on a dropped(bent) draglink. Then if I need to replace my tie-rod, I can use a RockRod with 2234 & 2010. Does this sound correct?

    I appreciate the help.
    Thanks,
    Brett
     
  5. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    Drag link sourced ends have greater angle capability
    the Moog ones have an oblong relief in the outer forging/casting
    and the Spicer ones have a doubleball arrangement
    the Chev draglink ends have the same taper but it is cut deeper so the shaft is larger, the thread size can vary from manufacturer so it cannot be used as good indicator IIRC
    I havent compared 1 ton and 1/2 ton rod ends and was under the impression that they were pretty much the same taper
    I would love a rod end catalogue to be able to definitively check this stuff out
     
  6. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    1/2 ton and 1 ton ends are different. Their tapers are greatly different. Obviously the 1 ton ends have a much larger taper.

    If you go with the Avalanche arm, it is tapered for the 1 ton ends and I used the ford van pitman arm and had the hole retapered to fit the 1 ton end. The 1/2 ton end it is already correctly tapered for.
     
  7. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    could you spit out some part numbers please?
    1 ton and 1/2 ton mean nothing
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    4x4 k30
    MOOG DS905 [LH Tie Rod End] Front Suspension; Steering Arm To Steering Arm; 4WD; 1 Required *
    MOOG ES2011R [RH Tie Rod End] Front Suspension; Steering Arm To Steering Arm; 4WD; 1 Required *
    MOOG ES2026R [Tie Rod End] Front Suspension; Pitman Arm To LH Steering Arm; At Steering Arm (Rear); 4WD ; 1 Required *
    MOOG ES2027L [Tie Rod End] Front Suspension; Pitman Arm To LH Steering Arm; At Pitman Arm (Front); 4WD; 1 Required


    4x4 k10
    FEDERATED CHASSIS ES2026R [Tie Rod End] Pitman Arm to LH Steering Arm; Steering Arm; Rr.; Exc. Crew Cab *
    FEDERATED CHASSIS ES2027L [Tie Rod End] Pitman Arm to LH Steering Arm; Pitman Arm; Frt.; Exc. Crew Cab *
    FEDERATED CHASSIS ES362S [Tie Rod End] Pitman Arm to LH Steering Arm; Sleeve; Exc. Crew Cab *
    FEDERATED CHASSIS ES2233L [Tie Rod End] Steering Arm to Steering Arm; Left; Exc. Crew Cab *
    FEDERATED CHASSIS ES2234R [Tie Rod End] Steering Arm to Steering Arm; Right; Exc. Crew Cab *
    MOOG ES2026R [Tie Rod End] Front Suspension; Pitman Arm To LH Steering Arm; At Steering Arm (Rear); 1 Required *
    MOOG ES2027L [Tie Rod End] Front Suspension; Pitman Arm To LH Steering Arm; At Pitman Arm (Front); 1 R equired


    now we need someone to find the taper specs for the tie rod parts
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I don't know about the 1/2 ton, but here is what I have for the "1 ton" part numbers.

    DLE: ES2027L ES2026R
    TRE: ES2234R ES2233L

    ES2233L has the hole for a stabilizer in it and is weak. You can get a stronger arm with ES2010L (91 3/4 ton Dodge) to replace ES2233L but you will have to mount the stabilizer to the new tie rod.

    The pins on the DLEs are larger than the TREs. My Avalanche arms are bored for TREs and the DLE on my drag link does not fully seat. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif It does seat enough to be safe and stable though so I have not bored it out...
     

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