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Crossover

Discussion in 'Audio' started by Z3PR, Feb 17, 2004.

  1. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    How do you determ what to set a crossover at ???
     
  2. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    By the noises you want to hear..... /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif



    Seriously, it depends on how steep the crossover slope is (6dB/oct, 12 dB/oct, 18dB/oct, 24dB/oct)....a steeper slope can be set closer to the "real" frequency that you want to filter at. The shallower slopes need longer to fully "filter out" the unwanted frequencies.

    Are you talking about setting up a low-pass crossover (for what the subs will play) or a high-pass crossover point (what the subs WON'T play that the mids/tweets need to handle)????
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Just for the sub(s). I have mine set how I like it now, but thought you might be able to give some good info on this topic.
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    What is the slope on the amp you're using? Are you running a second amp for the mids/tweets.....what crossover slope do you have on that amp, or are you running them full-range?


    Need more info.... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    In the daily driver (98 Dodge Stratus) I have a JVC KD-LX1 headunit (Might put the KD-LX50 in sometime soon) powering the factory speakers, and in the truck I have a single 12" Kicker L7 DVC (Square subwoofer) wired for 4ohms in a sealed box (Might get a slot port box in the near future) powered by a MMATS D200hc mono-block amp with the crossover set at 120. It's nothinng fancy, but sounds good. Planning on swapping out the factory speakers for some Infinity Kappa's sometime this spring.
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Well 120Hz is way too high, regardless of the slope of the built in crossover (which you still haven't mentioned /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif)

    I would never let a sub play above 80Hz unless the other speakers were totally lame....and even then it's something I wouldn't want to do. At around 60Hz, the bass becomes easy to "localize"....that is, you KNOW that it's coming from the trunk (or wherever) because the information that it's playing really isn't BASS anymore......I would consider anything above 60Hz as "Upper Bass" and anything in the 120Hz range is "Mid Bass"..... Those types of freqencies should be played my your mids, not your subs.

    For starters, at least knock that crossover down to 80Hz.... see how it sounds with the other existing speakers. A next step might be to incorporate some of those cheap "bass blockers" to the factory speakers to keep them from trying to play below 80Hz....they will sound better, and it will take less head unit power to drive them afterwards.
     
  7. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Okay, I'll go out and turn the knob to 80 here in alittle bit.
     
  8. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Thats about where i keep my 15s" set at, if i turn them to 50hz it's just sub bass sounding, and the 120 is more a thump with a mix of other sounds that don't belong in that big of a speaker. I would also imagine whattype of other speakers you are running though too, and what sounds they are emitting. Just my thoughts i guess,,, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  9. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Thats about where i keep my 15s" set at, if i turn them to 50hz it's just sub bass sounding, and the 120 is more a thump with a mix of other sounds that don't belong in that big of a speaker. I would also imagine whattype of other speakers you are running though too, and what sounds they are emitting. Just my thoughts i guess,,, /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]



    That's a perfect description of what I've been preaching for a long time:

    1. Most people expect a sub to "sound" like it's doing a lot of stuff. Real bass is the bottom octave of the audible frequency range (20Hz to 40Hz) as well as any harmonics of those notes (both above and below that range)....by the time you get to 80Hz, you are not talking about true "bass" anymore and you are in a range that subs aren't really needed for anyway.

    2. There are a lot of people who say that subs "hit hard" or "slam"... when in reality, they are describing a set of frequencies from 60Hz up. The rapid pressurization of the vehicle (that makes the hair on your arms move) is from a set of frequencies that are really called "Upper Bass" or "Mid Bass". You can ask the subs to play them for you, but you'll never get the system to sound "right" that way....

    3. Mid-Basses are the KEY to ultimate sound. I am more convinced of it every day. The "slammy" sound of a system, the ability to make your rearview mirror dance, and to provide those distinct rapid drumbeats instead of a big smeared, droning mess is a function of the midbasses (NOT THE SUBS) and their ability to play down to a frequency where the subs SHOULD NOT be playing anyway.


    Ultimately, I do understand that if the system isn't well balanced (like putting 15's with a couple sets of coaxial door speakers) you are never going to be able to set the subwoofer crossover correctly because there will be a huge gaping hole in the frequency response where the subs are crossed-over. The coaxials won't have enough output to seamlessly blend with the output of 15's.

    Well, everyone has different ideas about what "good" sound is. For most people, as long as they feel their guts shaking they're happy.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

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