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Crush sleeve

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sunnyc123abc, Feb 28, 2006.

  1. sunnyc123abc

    sunnyc123abc 1/2 ton status

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    I know your not suppose to use the old crush sleeve, but im so tempted too because i cannot for the life of me get the new one to crush. I've used a impact wrench, breaker bar, and i just can't get that thing to crush. Maybe im just doing something wrong. Anybody got a suggestion?
     
  2. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

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    a really long breaker bar?

    like 3 feet plus a jackhandle works for me.
     
  3. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Yeah I used like a 6 foot piece of pipe on the end of my 1" drive breaker. It crushed it.:D Another tip I have heard is put the new crush sleeve in a press, and just barely start to crush it. Have the old one handy so you can make sure you don't go to far. Go very very slowly for this. Once it starts to crush it gets much easier to continue it's just that initial part that sucks.
     
  4. sunnyc123abc

    sunnyc123abc 1/2 ton status

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    ok, cool. Ill try that out tomorrow. Thanks
     
  5. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I had good luck with using an old crush sleeve and some shims. It basically makes the crush sleeve longer (as if it were less crushed). You can then crush it some more by tightening the nut if the preload is not enough initially.

    I usually don't recommend things like this, but will work in a pinch.

    All the crush sleeve does is act as a spacer between two opposed tapered roller bearings. The larger the spacer the less preload (holds the bearings away from their races), the smaller the spacer the more the preload. Too small a spacer and the preload will be so much you will ruin the bearings (as the bearings are forced against their races). A difference of only .003" can mean the difference between too much and not enough preload so take your time.

    I actually prefer to use solid spacers vs. crush sleeves whenever possible. I had a spacer machined for a 14FF (with small shims for finite adjustment) because I was having problems crushing a sleeve with limited tools and leverage (still in use after 50K miles).

    Also remember that a crush sleeve can only be crushed so far before it binds on itself.
     
  6. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    As already mentioned, reusing the old crush sleeve is not a good idea.

    On my 14FF rear axle is was a PITA to get the sleeve to crush. I used about an 3' long breaker (3/4" or 1" drive, can't remember) and it took two people to move it......I'm about 6-2, 220 lbs. and my feet would slide across the floor instead of the bar moving when I tried by myself.
     
  7. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Second that. I've had crush sleaves collapse while in use. :mad: :mad:

    OE's like crush sleaves b/c they're faster to assemble. For servere service a solid spacer is the only way to go.
     
  8. ryan22re

    ryan22re 1/2 ton status

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    does anyone make a spacer for the 14 bolt?

    or should i just buy a new one, measure it, and make my own?
     
  9. BAJA_BLAZER

    BAJA_BLAZER 1/2 ton status Author

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    Set it up in a press, works easy.
     
  10. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I had one that would not even start to crush in a 20 ton shop press. I brought the unit to a shop that specialized in transmissions, transfercases, and rearends. His "A" frame on the press was actually starting to bow (and no this was not a harbor freight cheapie model press). He had never had that happen before. He had a larger press but was worried about hurting the pinion. I ended up taking it home and trying to figure a way to do it.

    It took putting the pinion support assembly in the housing, adding weight to the bed (I'll explain why later), putting a 4ft pipe (monkey) wrench on the yoke, then a 3/4" breaker bar and socket to turn the nut on the yoke using a floor jack as I could not do it even with a cheater pipe. At first the truck started lifting up and causing the pipe wrench to turn (resting against the concrete floor). As the truck lifted, it allowed the pipe wrench to turn (BAD idea). I was then able to get enough weight in the bed to keep the truck from lifting and eventually was able to get the sleeve to crush (became MUCH easier after it started crushing). Needless to say making sure the socket and breaker bar stayed on the nut with all that force and weight was NOT fun.

    I told the guy at the shop what I had to do and he said he has never had to do anything like that, but after seeing that the press couldn't start to crush it he understood.

    The next one I did, I did not have access to the tools (ie. 4ft pipe wrench), so that is when I decided to go the spacer route (much easier/SAFER). Did I mention I hate crush sleeves :D .

    I brought the old crush sleeve and pinion to the shop and had them machine a spacer .005" shorter, and then used shims I had laying around from another project to make up the difference. The key is keeping the ID of the spacer large enough to go over the pinion and the OD of the spacer small enough not to contact the inner bearings or cage.
     
  11. sebban

    sebban Registered Member

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    I measured my old crush sleeve and compared with the new one, it was compressed 3mm (0,12"), so I made a solid spacer to fit inside that was 1,5mm (0,06") taller than the used one.
    Put it in a press and squash it.. Then you don´t have to worry about crushing i too much. Easy peasy..
     
  12. sunnyc123abc

    sunnyc123abc 1/2 ton status

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    Dang, I thought that these things would crush alot easier than i thought. Ill give it another shot tomorrow. Thanks for the replys
     

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