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cummins 5.9L diesel in my suburban?????

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by muddysub, Feb 1, 2004.

  1. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    ive heard its posible, and since GM diesels are pieces of gutless SH!T, ive been considering this. isnt there a kit somewhere with all the adapters for it? and can the frame and suspension handle it? oh and compared to putting a new 350 in it how much would this cost me?
     
  2. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    depends on what kind of "new" 350, you will probably need a higher spring rate on the front packs to handle the weight of that BEAST.. oh and of course you have to have single 4" straight pipe, propane injection, nitrous, the head welded to the block and about 40psi of boost.. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif just trying to make sure you know all the necessities.. /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  3. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    oh i know all about high performance diesel stuff, thats why i want a cummins24 valve 5.9L. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    oh and im gettin a GMPP base 350 HO.
     
  5. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    you say performance diesel, and 24 valve? 12 valve is much more cost effective for performance ive heard.. simplicity is key..
     
  6. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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  7. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    yea ive heard the 12 is more cost effective, not sure. ive got a friend with a 24v that puts 985ft/lbs and 450hp to the duals! thats dyno proven too.
     
  8. Goober

    Goober 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    985ft/lbs and 450hp to the duals!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif




    I could live with that! /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif


    .
     
  9. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    yea he just did 2500 worth of tranny damage! lmao
     
  10. joez

    joez 1/2 ton status

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    An almost neighbor has a 12v cummins putting just a hair over 1000 ft lbs down to the ground. He has done more than extensive modifications to the motor, and he is going through trannys like a hot knife through butter. It makes me feel so inferior with my 6.2 /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Especially when his friends that come over with pumped powerstrokes and even more cummins'.

    Anywho, back on topic, i would think a mechanically injected 5.9 would be the way to go. It would be close to bolting in, and you will get gobs more power from it than a 350, plus the added benefit of fuel economy.
     
  11. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    I really consdiered boltign a powerstroke into my truck when it wa in need of an engine. Now being they are what I work on I am a lil biased towards them but, I think my reasons are justified. You will NEVER see vechicles that are worked or driven harder then the ones I maintain, They run for 24 hours a day 7 days a week, they weigh over 10k lbs and get driven like a formula 1 car. The average life span on brakes is about 8k miles on new pads and rotors. THe motors spend 49% of their time idleing and 50% at wot, the turbos never get cooled down they just shut the motors off after a 15 minute run at wot. We have a fleet of about 70 vechicles, average milage i 160-170k some pushing 270k, I have never seen one of these motors come apart, or even develop internal problems, we have only taken heads off to remove broken glow plugs, and only pull motors to change curbed oil pans. I have a complete powerstroke sitting next to my tool box at work that would have gone into my blazer, if it wernt for a few small reasons. P/s will not bolt to a t350, 4r100 trans will not bolt to a np208, ford t/case will not run a pass side front axle, and I didnt have time to fab the fuel system. In case anyone was wondering I maintain a fleet of ambulances.
     
  12. yeild2me

    yeild2me 1/2 ton status

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    There is a Suburban here at Ft. Bragg with a Dana 60 and CTD in it. It even has "Banks" Stickers on the side!! I havent ever talked to the dude who owns it, but I was really surprised when I saw it.

    Pretty cool.....

    Rob
     
  13. dorucol

    dorucol Registered Member

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    I talked to a Cummins dealer about ten years ago, about putting a 5.9 in my Blazer. Price for a new crate engine $8400.00, installing with all the necessary modifications,i.e. firewall, etc., brought the total to fifteen thou. He told me he had just finished a Suburban for someone who was very happy with the result.Just takes the magic ingredient$$$.
     
  14. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I really consdiered boltign a powerstroke into my truck...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sorry to hijack, but I considered this too. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    I could get a PSD with trans & t-case for the same money as a Cummins alone. (Was still too rich for me so I picked up a 6.2L donor for $200 instead.)

    I was going to either run a Dodge divorced 205 behind the Ford BW case, or see if I could swap a 31-spline input into my round pattern 205.
     
  15. Stomper

    Stomper ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ GMOTM Winner

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    Cost of the engine anywhere from $2500 to $5000+
    Adapter for transmition (if you stay with chevy transmition) $500
    Engine mounts $25 to $200
    New engine cross member $25 to $200
    Hydro boost steering?? $200
    Exhaust work $150 +

    Atleast $1000+ for odds and ends.
    If you use the dodge trans. will you need new d-shafts made?
    an adapter from dodge trans. to chevy t-case?

    Will your axle support it? If no then you will need a d60.

    Your best bet is to get the complete Dodge donor truck.

    It's not exactly a drop in and go kind of prodject.

    I think it would be much cheaper to get the new 350, but you loose the cool factor
    /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif
     
  16. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    With a long wheel base, this is what I would recommend.

    Forget the Dodge, forget the adapters, IMO all that is a waste of time and money...

    Find a medium duty truck with a 5.9 of the desired flavor (mechanical/electronic 12/24 valve or whatever). This will avoid the detuned Dodge and some of the odd parts that are Dodge specific (staying standard Cummins medium duty parts means available at any big rig supplier). You also might have better luck finding one for less money that way.

    Trans behind it will be stronger than anything you'll get from Dodge, or GM. For auto's my preference would be an Allison 2000 series.

    Run a divorce mounted 205 with drop on the side you desire. This avoids adapter headaches and expenses plus it gives a great front drive shaft angle. Build new shafts with 1410s.

    When you mod the firewall to clear the Cummins, Just make the hump bigger to handle the Alli.

    That would be my approach.
     
  17. skratch

    skratch 1/2 ton status

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    I know Dodge puts the D60 in the front of it's 4wd CTD trucks but I have a hard time seeing a D60 being able to take the extra off road abuse with that much extra weight on it. Every 4wd CTD truck we hauled into the slavage pool yard had a busted tube on it's 60. That much weight combined with other than normal forces equals carnage quickly.

    Just something to think about, but if I was gonna try something like this, and I've thought about it (just no where near enough money than to get past thinking) I would go with a heavier axle, like a custom 70 or 80 front with 60 outers.
    Just my .02
     
  18. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I know Dodge puts the D60 in the front of it's 4wd CTD trucks but I have a hard time seeing a D60 being able to take the extra off road abuse with that much extra weight on it. Every 4wd CTD truck we hauled into the slavage pool yard had a busted tube on it's 60. That much weight combined with other than normal forces equals carnage quickly.

    Just something to think about, but if I was gonna try something like this, and I've thought about it (just no where near enough money than to get past thinking) I would go with a heavier axle, like a custom 70 or 80 front with 60 outers.
    Just my .02

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You do have a point but I guess it's not necessary.
    I have a 5.9l perkins Td which weighs 1300lbs and puts out stock 415 ft lbs of torque and I have a 6 lug D44 front.
    So far I have only broken an inner shaft at the splines when I ran it locked and one side hub unlocked.
    Other wise all I do is rocks and hard core dirt and snow and so far the D44 is holding up to the wieght, I believe a D60 should take it.
    Now I don't do any baja racing and high speed jumping, that would probably be too much but then trussing would be the key.

    Now for putting a CTD in your burb, your options for Auto ( I don't know why you would want auto with the diesel) are not that many and I don't know how much it would hold up to the mods you intend to do.
    With manuals there is a SM465 belhousing out there that was mated to a Cummins, the trick is to find it.
    It was stock option in the P30 vans.

    To get the PSD 2 options come to mind.
    Get the PSD with the tranny and Tcase, find the equivalent case for GM and swap the input shaft to match, all newer Tcases are 6 bolt round pattern so it shouldn't be a problem.
    You can do the same with the dodge tranny but I don't like the dodge tranny unless it's modified by the few that are successfully making them take the abuse from the CTD.
    The second is what was already suggested is to get the engine /tranny 2wd and then put a divorced 205 that works for ya.

    Personally I would go with the first option for a K5 for length reasons.
    On a truck, the div 205 would give you closer to equal length drive shafts.
    Or you could have a 4wd with the tcase and then have a div 205 behind it for a doubler setup.
    /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif

    Oh and by the way:
    Check out the GM diesel forum, this has been exhausted there.
    All from CTD to PSD to CAT in a GM body and frame.
    /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  19. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    Why not do the smart thing and stop by cummins southwest...the parts guy there owns a burb that he converted to a 5.9L...mosesburb is doin the same thing to his 72 and has spoken with him....

    DW
     
  20. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    fast cummins!
    check out this link.. read it, look at the pictures and then find the 0-60 and 0-100 times.. kind of SICK!!
     

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