Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Custom Rear shock mounts

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by wayne, Mar 7, 2002.

  1. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2001
    Posts:
    6,178
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Carlisle, Pa
    Anybody got pics of their custom rear shock mounts for 9012 shocks? Looking for ideas on how I am going to do mine.
     
  2. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    5,829
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Oregon
    Mine, with setup made by Jeremy (55Willy)............click the link below......
     
  3. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2001
    Posts:
    3,271
    Likes Received:
    134
    Location:
    Clovis CA
    Heres my <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/albums/FRYDADDY/abd.sized.jpg>setup</a> .The crossmember is bolt in using existing holes in the frame and the lower mounts are bolt on also.The shocks are 5112s.
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    LOL, I looked at your page again and noticed the "measure once, drill twice" comment! I *did* double check while working on one of the pieces that make up my front cross member and I *STILL* somehow managed to rotate one of the pieces of 2" square 180 degrees before welding it in hard. I even looked at it after spotting it (checking for square, etc) and didn't catch it. Had to cut new pieces for that side, luckily had enough extra steel.

    Anyway, I've got to build a rear cross member for my setup, maybe this week end. Unfortunately, what I'm planning probably can't be made to work on a K5 due to interference with the stock tank (for those who still have it there). That's what I was looking at the pics for, to see how close it actually is. Unfortunately, it's not clear how much room is there so, I'll say my peace anyway.

    I wanted to keep the tops more out-board to control body roll and axle movement better. Especially with the Springer swing arms in the back and no track bar (my personal decision, just trying it). Rather than angle them in to the center like most are doing, I want them angled further back along the frame rails. With the tops further out, but the same basic angle (to effectively amplify the travel but reduce the rate) I think it will give the best (compromise) of all worlds. I even tried to mount them outboard of the frame (and parallel) but, there is just not enough room there. So, I'll mount the tops as wide as possible and angled back for better body roll control, softening my 5012s due to the angle, and when the axle swings down and to the front (or returns when the body drops) it will be directly fighting the shocks providing maximum control. Since I'm free to do anything I want with the back (no body to worry about yet) I could mount them straight up but then I would loose the benefits of travel enhancement due to the angle AND the 5012s would beat me to death with the lack of sprung mass in the rear. One other point, however the shocks are mounted, make sure the bolts/pins are oriented to allow the shock to move properly. I've seen a couple where the shock bushing would bind pretty bad at extreme flex.

    I've seen trucks roll because of a violent shift, and, to me, that is the MAIN reason for flex. I want to keep the tire on the ground to so that the shocks can control those shifts while twisted up, it's really not about traction. Sorry for the ramble. I just figure I would throw this up here so others can consider these points and, maybe, shoot holes in the theory before I go too far...
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Aha! I was trying to remember who had that lower shock mount hinge setup. IT WAS YOU! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif I'm thinking about a setup like that for mine because of the dramatic changes in orientation my rear axle sees when articulated. Setting my shocks angled back will just make it worse and put more bind on the eyes if I don't do something like that.
     
  6. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 29, 2001
    Posts:
    1,472
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Memphis, TN
    You got a close up of that lower mount? That's a great idea. I assume you fabed that up?
     
  7. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2001
    Posts:
    6,178
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Carlisle, Pa
    I am planning to use 2" angle for the upper mount and I am going to have to fab something on the axle. I am going to try and keep them as far apart at the top as I can. I plan to get the upper mount as close to the body as possible. Probably going to mount them behind the axle instead of in front so the knobs on the bottom of the shocks will be protected a little better.
     
  8. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2001
    Posts:
    6,178
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Carlisle, Pa
  9. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    Here is my set-up Wayne.

    http://community.webshots.com/album/22343406eZunVfNFBJ

    Bottoms are welded in and tops are bolt-in. I've got the 33 inch fully extended Pro Comp 3000's. Which I think are the same length as the 9012's. I have yet to fully extend or bottom out the shocks.
     
  10. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2001
    Posts:
    3,271
    Likes Received:
    134
    Location:
    Clovis CA
    No I dont have any close up pics of those and yes I did make those.If I have some time today I can take a few pics.I made them like that cuz I got lazy and didnt feel like cutting off the existing mounts and relocating them /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  11. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2001
    Posts:
    6,178
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Carlisle, Pa
    I have a ? that you all might be able to answer. Why mount them close togeather? Is there a reason or is it just easier to clear everything like the exhaust that way? I am confused a bit on this since I see so many different set ups but the top mount and the difference between the shocks vary from right beside each other all the way to about 10" apart at the top.
     
  12. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2001
    Posts:
    9,946
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Keizer, Or
    On Franks we mounted the shocks at half travel, in order to get half stroke we had to move them in towards each other at the top. Also if you mount the lower part like the UAV then you gain some room cus his are flush to the bottom of the axle were as Franks(and Estebans) are in the middle of the axle. Also we mounted Franks bottom mount as far out as it would go.
    The farther out the tops are the better it is at preventing body roll.
     
  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Mounting them at an angle effectively extends the range of the shock. A shock that has 13.5" of travel will allow the axle 13.5" of travel if mounted straight up. However, the axle will have more than 13.5" of travel if the shock is mounted on an angle. It also reduces the rate of the shock which can be good (like my 5012s). And, with most common lifts, it is the only way to even fit the long travel shocks at all without cutting the floors. That's all I can think of other than simply to clear other obstructions. As for static setting, I would figure out how much the axle can move in compression and articulation then use that as a starting point. If you can not possibly push the axle up far enough to use all the travel, but you wind up running out of travel on the bottom, it makes sense to have the static extension set with less than half the shaft out the top. I know on mine, there is much more droop than compression.
     
  14. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    3,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bakersfield, CA
    Willy hit it right on the button. I set mine to half way between extended and compressed. Then I just located the bottoms out as far as I could and viola, I got my placement. Now that I've got some different factors to consider(body lift and zero rates) I'll probably be changeing the angle a bit.
     

Share This Page