Well, I've got my K30 setting on a new, custom rear suspension setup. As most of you know, the K30 has 56" springs from the factory and the Springer setup is made for using longer springs to replace the 52" short springs found on K5s and many K10/20 trucks. With the Springer Suspension you get very flexy 57" Ford F150 springs and a "shackle flip lift", plus a tremendous amount of rear axle articulation as evidenced by many photos that have been posted. Well, I was so impressed with it (saw it on Marv's truck plus the pics) that I wanted to use it on mine, even though I already had the hangers set of 56" springs. So, I got a partial Springer setup and moved my rear hangers. Rather than deal with the 57" springs (which generally need a new hole drilled to move the pin to the correct GM location) I decided to use the 56" 1 ton springs (with 5 leafs removed) for the 1st phase. Basically I moved the rear hangers forward by about 6" and set them at an angle to make up for the differences in location of the rear eye between the 56" and 57" springs, and allow for the fact that it was originally designed for hangers set for 52" springs. Some quick math will tell you that the hanger should only have been moved 5" to correct for the differences but, I wanted to change the shackle and swing arm angles a bit. In the end, I mounted the bump-stop bracket a little higher than normal, angled the hanger, and wound up with (IMO) a nice rear shackle angle. Having the swing arm angled up will hopefully allow the shackle to do more of the work before unloading the swing arm off the bump. When it does start moving, more of the movement will be vertical, rather than swinging forward as far or as soon. Because of the changes I made (and considering phase 2) I used longer shackles than Marv usually uses. End result is a roughly 4" lift and a VERY flexy/soft rear suspension. Pics of Original rear suspension (sorry for the dark shot, it's the best I've got) <a target="_blank" href=http://members.cox.net/russhuffman/original1.jpg>Original 1</a> <a target="_blank" href=http://members.cox.net/russhuffman/original2.jpg>Original 2</a> Pics of Phase 1 suspension completed <a target="_blank" href=http://members.cox.net/russhuffman/springer1.jpg>Springer 1</a> <a target="_blank" href=http://members.cox.net/russhuffman/springer2.jpg> Springer 2</a> <a target="_blank" href=http://members.cox.net/russhuffman/springer3.jpg> Springer 3</a> I do still need to mount my 5012s. In my case I'll mount them more along the frame rails than is common on most rigs here. I don't want them angled in heavily since that will not control body roll. With the Springer setup done the way I have it, I'm a bit concerned about the side hill performance, and I don't want dramatic load/unload occurring twisted up in the rocks. So, I'll mount them on the back of the axle, right out by the springs. The top will be on a new cross member about 16" behind the axle. The shocks will be angled back about 35 degrees and in toward the center about 15-20 or so (still working out the details). This should provide maximum control, especially when the swing arms start to unload or collapse. Basically, the axle had to rotate around the front spring eye, so it swings forward and back as it moves. With the shocks angled back, it will have to work against the shocks more as the springer arm starts to move for dramatic flex (being that the axle is further on its arc around the eye). I still don't have final details because I can't find anything large enough around my house to "ramp" it on to see EXACTLY how the axle moves at the extremes. Where is a ramp or forklift when you need one??? Phase 2 will be moving the rear axle forward roughly 22"+. This will require relocating the saddle tank, modifying the emergency brakes, and shortening the drive shaft in addition to the suspension changes. This is going to take some time and that is the reason for doing it in 2 phases. The suspension move will involve moving the rear hanger/springer again, as well as moving the front hanger. I'll also be switching to the F150 springs AND turning them backwards. That will put the long side of the springs in the front, and effectively move the axle back 5" relative to the springs to reduce rear over hang. This is why I didn't use them in phase 1, didn't want to drill them just for a temp setup! With the long, more flexy part of the spring in the front, and the long shackle + Springer arm in the rear, I'll probably wind up needing a limiting strap to control the axle from over articulating, but at least I can easily put it exactly where I want it. When all is said and done the overall wheel base should be around 110". And, with the front axle moved 2" forward, and the rear axle moved 5" back (relative to the rear hangers) it will have FAR less overhang on either end, allowing approach and departure angles approaching 90 degrees (with the frame ends and extraneous junk eliminated) while riding on leaf springs. So, any comments or suggestions? Russ 85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked, 4" lift, 42" tires Some day: massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.