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CV clearance grinding... pics inside

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, Jul 17, 2006.

  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I suppose I need to clearance grind my CV shaft, to allow maximum flex. The RC lift pdf I downloaded told me to, so I took off the shaft. I marked the area I want to grind off in blue. Is the the only place I need to grind off, and does it look like I've marked a big enough area? I'm obviously gonna grind the mirror image of it on the other side of the CV.

    Also, how the heck do you get grease in the CV? What kinda grease, the red stuff I suppose?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    please critique my grinding area before I dig in.. I'm gonna give this thread about 45 minutes or so before I go and do the deed.. so let me know if I'm on the right track :bow:
     
  2. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah James, general rule, don't cut any deeper than the skinniest part thats already there around the brg cup.
    How many miles are on those spiders?
     
  3. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Grind everything that hit's. Grind on the thickest side.

    There is the nut shell way to do it.

    Just don't grind to much.

    Some CVs aren't greasable. You can pull the u-joints and take it apart to get grease in there if you want.
     
  4. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I just ground off the part I colored with the sharpie, but it doesn't even look like anything that would ever have a problem clearing... that was probably a waste of time.. now what DOES look like its binding are some raised triangluar areas.. 4 of them to be exact.. when I move the CV around, those do bind up against the center section.. guess I'll go grind those, as they may actually be a clearance isssue...
     
  5. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I ground a good big of crap... its should have more travel before its binds now
     
  6. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I would suggest taking it apart. Get the best joints you can, and replace the center section parts. You haven't got all the bind points out, here's my crappy paint chop of your photo. If it binds at all under flex, you'll break the center, I know, been there.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    You can also grind the cup in the center for a little extra.
     
  8. WhiteBurb

    WhiteBurb 1/2 ton status

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    And you should probably replace the u-joints while you have it out. Those look like the original ones.
     
  9. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    They are the originals, I see plastic.
    Check Tom Wood's site, tech info/1350 CV pros/cons........for clearancing the ball & socket area.
     
  10. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I thought I had almost ground too much.. guess I'm needing to grind more :eek1:

    here's kinda a noob question.. how do you get the u joints out of the CV, if you were to replace them?
     
  11. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/ujoint.html
    Thats a general "how-to". The tools from Eastwood are too much $$. Astro tool makes one that works.:D
    Be sure to take descriptive pictures and be cognizant of the sequence, its very specific. Or you could have a driveline shop do it.
     
  12. Scrubby

    Scrubby 1/2 ton status

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    A driveline place did mine for right around $50 with new spicer u-joints when I was getting my shafts extended. I didn't figure I could do it myself for that. You might check around.
     

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