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CV joints?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by DieselDan, Nov 15, 2001.

  1. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    OK who got the low down on the different types of CV joints that are out there? I'm looking numbers, strengths, weaknesses, and applications. 'Find alot of good info on U-joints, but nothing on CV's.

    Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
     
  2. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I've got a 1350 CV joint...
    There are 1330 (1/2 Ton) and 1350 (3/4-1 Ton) As like anything else, bigger means better, but its gonna cost you more $$$.
    I think they also make 1410 CV's but they're probally harder to make work with blazers than a 1350.
    I went all out and put a 1350 CV and a 1350 U-joint on my polished driveshaft that goes between my NP205 and 12 bolt rear.
    It wasn't cheap... probally about $750.
     
  3. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    Polished driveshaft?

    $700... that is way too much. Sorry to be blunt.

    Ken H.

    '85 K5 in process
     
  4. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Dude-
    The Flange for the back of the 205 T-case was $100.
    The flange makes it possible for you to run a CV joint whether it be 1330 or 1350.
    The 1330 CV's are around $150 less than a 1350 CV.
    I got a yoke to convert the 12 bolt rear pinion yoke from a 1330 U joint to a 1350 Ujoint (1-ton) from Mark williams enterprises for like $160. (So if you had a 14 bolt rear you wouldn't have to do this)
    The driveshaft I had made with the 1350 CV, and 1350 Ujoint was around $500- 550.
    And dude, the polished finish was like $10 extra how could I pass that up?
    So it adds up to around $750.
    I decieded to go with the biggest & strongest I could for my rear driveline. It'll cost ya.
    Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/Ryans1972Blazer/picsofryansblazer.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&amp;PhotoID=247>http://communities.msn.com/Ryans1972Blazer/picsofryansblazer.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&amp;PhotoID=247</a>

    If you want to save some money- buy the weaker stuff, I'd be the one towing you back to camp &amp; drinkin your beer because of your broken U-joint. LOL Just kiddin'.
     
  5. CarolinaBogger

    CarolinaBogger Registered Member

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    I just got a CV shaft from Arizona Drivelines (drivelinesolutions.com) to go with my 8" lift. I am real happy with it, it doesn't vibrate on and off the throttle like it used to. It cost $320 to my door. It has 1330 U-joints which is the 3/4 ton size. I'm pretty sure that the 1310 joint = 1/2 ton, 1330 = 3/4 ton and 1350 = 1 ton. I was told that with 1330's, I shouldn't have a problem with breakage with the stock drivetrain.
     
  6. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    OK, this is good. But I thought there were some other types: like the CV with the pivot in the middle. What the hell is that? And how does that compare strengthwise? What's that CV HighAngle makes?

    Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
     
  7. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    The cv with a piviot in the middle?
    I think that would be any CV joint.?
    You can't really see in the pic, but mine has a pivot or a little ball looking thing in the middle in between the two U joints that make up the CV joint...
    I think all CV joints would have the "pivot" if we're talking about the same thing.
    I think some of those ball looking "pivots" have zerk fittings and you can grease them, but I believe mine doesn't.
    I've heard one of the leading causes for CV failure is not greasing that pivot in the middle of the CV.
    My 2 cents.
     
  8. K10ANDYKHAMNIC

    K10ANDYKHAMNIC 1/2 ton status

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    anyone got any friggen part #s !?!?



    dents ....
    O R D's axles
    NO BREAKAGE :)
     

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