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D44 ball joint adjusting sleeve question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by heavy4x4, Aug 2, 2003.

  1. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I'm about to replace my ball joints in the 3/4 ton D44 I've got in my driveway. Problem is, I can't find that stupid adjusting sleeve socket (4 prong thingy) anywhere and all the parts counter people look at me like I'm stupid. I know Snap-on sells it, but I don't want to spend $19 on this thing and have to wait for shipping. SO, can I just leave the sleeve that's in there alone and not replace it with the new one that came in the Perfect Circle ball joints?

    If I HAVE to replace it with the new one, I suppose I could ask my neighbor who's a mechanic to bring one home from his shop overnight (that's if they've got one), but I'd like to do it sooner than he could probably get it to me.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. LlanoK5

    LlanoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I just replaced the ball joints in my 10b, pretty much the same set up. I used a hammer and flat tip screwdriver to get them out and the new ones in. Worked pretty well for me. Of course, my tires still lean out, so I thing I may have to get offfset adjusting sleeves to help correct this problem.

    Have fun with it,
    Kirk
     
  3. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Basically, what I'm asking is...is it better to use the ones in there now than get them out and put the new ones in without being able to give them proper torque specs?

    Thanks.
     
  4. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I spent 1/2 a day making that stupid little tool out of a piece of half inch water pipe.Took hours filing slots,and trying to harden it by heating and quenching it--it did work just long enough to get those damm sleeves out!.Later when I talked to my friend who runs an alignment shop and does suspension work daily said he never tried to replace them after his first attempt,it was such a nightmare of boogerred threads in the axle yoke,my older brother a truck mechanic also said the same thing! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif AND THEY HAVE THE TOOL! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif They offerred to let me borrow it,but I said too late they're already in,and everyone else has changed only one set,so I guess I have reached my quota already!I'll never touch those sleeves again,just put in the ball joints !!. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     
  5. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Are ya trying to get the sleeve out before the knuckle is removed? If so- good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif If the knuckle and old ball joint are still on there, make sure both upper and lower nut's are removed, get a big a$s hammer, and bash the $hit out of the top ball joint- The knuckle will drop out onto the ground. The sleeve should be easy to remove after that, 4 prong socket or not. WD-40/PB Blaster, a hammer and screwdriver or small chisel to loosen it up, and 9 times outta 10, you can turn it the rest of the way out with your finger. A tip- The sleeve has a little gap in it, when ya use the screwdriver/chisel to tap it out, put it in one of the 4 notches that is closest to the slot. It should give ya alittle "spring action" to help loosen it. When ya tap the screwdriver with the hammer, the gap will close itselft with each tap- That will help jar it loose. Has worked everytime for me. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    As far as I'm concerned, it's important to use the new sleeve everytime the ball joints are replaced. If ya don't, how do ya set the preload on the ball joint? That sleeve has to be torqued to 50ft-lbs. (read the directions that come with the ball joints) Impossible to set pre-load with a rusted in place adjusting sleeve. If pre-load isn't set correctly, alignment will be impossible, ball joints will wear out waaaaay faster, then you'll be doing it again alot sooner. Take the time to get the old one out, or find the correct socket. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I've got the knuckle off, so I'm looking at the axle-end with the sleeve in it.

    So I've got one person saying use the old sleeves and another saying get the right socket and replace them...OH THE DECISIONS. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  7. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    The sleeve MUST be replaced when new Ball-Joints are installed.

    By "Pre-loading" the upper ball-joint, what you are really doing is adjusting the distance between the upper and lower ball-joint-studs. A distance that can and will change slightly with normal production tolerances.
    Add years of use, "curb-checks", Non-stock parts, and so on.
    It's easy to see how that distance might changed over-time.

    The proper tool is avalible, I'm a bit suprized your haveing problems finding one.
     
  8. crazykev4x4

    crazykev4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Replace the sleeve . they can be a pain to get out but change it .

    Kevin
     
  9. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    you have to torque it to 50ft-lb after you torque down the lower ball joint. you'll eat up your balljoints if not done correctly no matter how good of a Bjoint it is.

    ARQ.
     
  10. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    You can make that tool out of a deep socket using a grinder. I forget the size exactly (3/4 or 13/16), somewhere in that neighborhood. I had trouble finding that tool also and got the same looks you did.
     
  11. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I just made the tool out of a deep impact socket like rampage. It took me under a hour including going to Home Depot to buy the POS socket I started with. Took less time and $$$ to just make the tool rather than buy it.

    BTW..YOU NEED TO ADJUST THE BALLJOINTS!
     
  12. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Yep, 3/4" deep socket...
    ...A sharpie pen to mark where the 4 prongs need to be, and a dremol tool or a grinder... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  13. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Just to add some tech info to this thread, here is a good article.

    The spanner socket is OTC #7080 or Kent Tools #J-23447.

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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