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D44 Flattops?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by nau81blazer, Jul 29, 2004.

  1. nau81blazer

    nau81blazer 1/2 ton status

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    What are flat tops knuckles? These come on 3/4 d44's right? Do you guys think that a 3/4 ton d44 could handle 38" swampers? I'm not a really really agressive driver, just finding a way to get a front axle on a college student budget /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    Thanks for the input guys,

    --Adam /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    flat tops come on both 1/2ton and 3/4ton D44's. As far as 38's on a D44, if your really easy on the skinny, then it should work. Just take spare parts just in case.
     
  3. nau81blazer

    nau81blazer 1/2 ton status

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    So what exactly are flattops? Are they better? Thanks.
     
  4. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    all driver side d44/10 bolt knuckles are flattop. most of the d44 knuckles are flattop, some however are not.

    flattops are needed to do crossover steering on a d44/10bolt. there is no strength difference, only difference is the casting.
     
  5. Muddytazz

    Muddytazz 1 ton status

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    [​IMG]
    Left pic is non-flat top
    Right pic is flat top
     
  6. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    What are you going to wheel in AZ? 38's will be taxing on the system to say the least. If you want to crawl rock you better be really easy on the go pedel. I think 38's might work on a half ton front in AZ but you will need to be a very disapplined driver. The second you are not you will break something. You can wheel stuff in the AZ rocks that might not survive in other places but you must also remember that the rocks will NOT forgive you if you mess up.

    38's will also be very tough on ball joints. Get very accustomed to changing them. TheRobZilla & az-k5 have/had to change there ball joints every 3 months of hard trail use. Rob runs 35's and Matt runs 37's. Matt didn't even have a locker in the front axle and still tore them up.

    Bottom line on the 38's is you better be ready to break stuff. Have spares, tools, and knowledge to fix it when it does.

    D44 Flattop passenger side flattop is the knuckle you need if you want to convert to crossover steering. If you do anything beside real light wheeling you will want to convert. Crossover is the sh*t when you are wheeling.

    Harley

    P.S. You ever check your hunt number? Is it 3056? My boss saw 5 elk in there last weekend.
     
  7. nau81blazer

    nau81blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for all of the info guys! I guess i will go ahead and save up for a D60 for the front then. Do they make stronger axle shafts or anything to beef up the D44 that would still be cheaper than a D60? Just wondering. Any other info/suggestions would be awesome!

    Harley,
    I did get the #3056. Thats aweosome that your boss saw some elk. I've talked to a couple of people about the location of the hunt and they are surprised that there are elk there. Brightens the mood a little to know that I won't be hunting shurbs /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif Hopefully i'll get some time to go scouting soon. Hope you see some more!

    --Adam /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Negative on the cheap beef parts for a D44.

    It is possible that you will still be hunting shrubs but there are some pines too. It depends on where they are. Be ready for some decent range shots. 200-250 maybe more possible. There is also places where 50 yard shots might be the max too but I will know more as the scouting process continues.

    Harley
     
  9. MarcS

    MarcS 1/2 ton status

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    Found this site. S & N Fab
    They have new and used parts.
     
  10. cegusman

    cegusman 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Do they make stronger axle shafts or anything to beef up the D44 that would still be cheaper than a D60? Just wondering. Any other info/suggestions would be awesome!

    [/ QUOTE ]

    There are companies out there with better axles shfts, but the ball joints will still be an issue.
     
  11. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    The cheapest you can get into a set of shafts for is about $600 (the good stuff is $800+, and then you need $400 in ujoints for them) though. For $600 and the cost of a regear, locker, bearings, etc I would be looking for a 60 especially since he want 38's. 38's are the extreme outside of a 10 bolt or D44 fronts capacity, and that is stretching it if you want to wheel it on a regular basis even fairly lightly

    Harley
     
  12. bigredk5blazer

    bigredk5blazer Registered Member

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    It all depends on what you want your rig to do, and how skilled you are at wheeling it. I know several guys around here that run 10 bolt fronts with 38s and rarely break anything. The terrain here is mostly muddy though, so I agree that rocks will probably put too much stress on a 10 bolt.

    THE axels to run are the Superior ones sold by ORD. They are the toughest available. You can run either a solid 760 u-joint (the 297s are a waste of time)or the CTMs. The axels are about $600 a pair with the 760s. The CTM joints are $185 each (they are warrantied for life though and should be indestructable). I've got a set for my 10 bolt, which will run 38s when I'm done. I'm running 30 spline axels and an ARB in the front with 4.88 gears. The stuff is pricey, but the cost for the good parts is the same, if not more expensive for the D60. You can probably get by with stock D60 shafts, if they are 35 spline, but all of them aren't, so you need to be careful when getting a D60. Most can be converted to 35 spline shafts throughout, but this isn't cheap either and you will need to ream the spindles a bit to get them to fit. Another consideration is that you will have to run 8-lug wheels. Not the best news if you just got a nice set of 6-luggers.

    The ball joint issue can be mitigated somewhat by using good parts. I love the new NAPA Gold series chassis stuff. It is way better than the Moog stuff and also carries a lifetime warranty. If it does wear out just take them back and get free new ones. Again, these parts aren't cheap. Figure on about $58 per ball joint, if you've got a connection at the local store similar to mine.

    Don't get me wrong. If you want the ultimate in beef and have a heavy right foot and a thrash it till it's out mentality then the D60 is the way to go up front. If you need to save some coin the 10-bolt should last for a while if you are easy on it. There's no shame in calling for the strap!
     

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