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D60 / 14 Bolt

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by Batmanjr, Jul 16, 2001.

  1. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to a junkyard tomorrow to buy the housing of a D60 front and a 14 FF. How do I tell the difference between a 14ff and a 14sf from looking at them? Is there a way to tell if a front D60 had 30 spline axles or does this only apply to rear axles? I want to make sure I'm getting the strongest housing I can, so when I go to rebuild them, They are what I expect them to be. Thanks
     
  2. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    I know the 14bolt full floater has the big hub that sticks through the center of the wheel. The axle shaft is actually bolted to the end of that hub, and those are what the bolts are on the hub sticking through.
     
  3. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    The full float has the big hub to stick through the wheel, and the cover shape is pretty obvious after you look at a couple. All 14FF's are 30 spline. The only thing to make sure of is that it is an open diff. The Detroit will not go in a gov-lock diff.
    All D60 GM fronts were 35 spline, so it's hard to mess up. The newer the assembly, the better, some of the early front shafts had some necked down sections. But, I wouldn't get too picky if the price is right! They're becoming scarce.

    Some advice, rebuild parts for these things are not cheap, try to get axles that you can run without major work for a while. Good wheel bearings and decent kingpins and bearings are really the important things. There are reasons why rebuilt axles are expensive and the parts price is one of those reasons.
    Good luck

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [image][/image]
    SW-ORD
     
  4. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Print off the axle identification chart that you can find on this site.
    You can clearly see the physical differnces between the SF and FF.

    Dave

    If You Drink Don't Park, Accidents Cause People.

    91 K5 - in the process of 4" lift with D60/14FF plus LOTS of extras. ETF August 1.
     
  5. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Here it is....
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml>http://coloradok5.com/axleguide.shtml</a>

    Dave

    If You Drink Don't Park, Accidents Cause People.

    91 K5 - in the process of 4" lift with D60/14FF plus LOTS of extras. ETF August 1.
     
  6. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    So the small cover is a sf and the hectagon(or whatever) one is a FF! Is this correct. I got my axle and I paid $75 for it and from what I can see, all it's missing is one drum. I busted it open and it's definately open diff, Everything looks solid and it was full of gear grease, real dark, the cover even had the paper gasket still on it! I'm pretty happy. They didn't have and D60 fronts. One rear for $75 as well, but I opted for the 14FF. I'm going to go back in a couple of weeks and see what I can find. What trucks did a D60 front come under. The owner of the junk yard doesn't know one from a hole in his head and I would like to use this opurtunity to get me one. He has a ton of heavy trucks, I just don't know what trucks to look for. Please help.
     
  7. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    If I remember correctly they started putting D60's in K30 one ton pickups in 1977................through the late 1980's. Not sure when they ended but somewhere in that time frame is Dana 60 time.

    Pic of mine on the site below if you need a reference picture.......one key for the D60 is the passenger side spring plate hold down uses ONE U bolt and two bolts that go directly into the housing. That I believe is the easiest way to tell a D60 apart.

    <font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.alloffroad.com>www.blazzinor.alloffroad.com</a>
     
  8. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    One big ID for a GM D60 is they use kingpins and bolt on caps instead of ball joints.
    They ran in GM 1-tons from 1977 to 1991. You don't really want to mess with a dually axle unless it's pretty cheap, but any single wheel front is good. Try to make sure you get the ubolt plates with it, they're expensive. Sometimes we make them give us the front springs to make sure we get the ubolt plates. It's a pain to move them around that way, but it works. Nobody wants stock front springs, so it's not a big deal to most yards.
    This would be a good question to put on the "big" board too.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    SW-ORD
     
  9. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    When I bought mine I told them I wanted the u-bolt plates, they gave them to me with the stock sway bar. This way they can just torch the u-bolts (they were already done when I bought the axle, but it was still under the truck).

    Also, when 14 bolt shopping, make sure to get one with a 4 pin carrier if you want to put in a Detroit.

    Pete

    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     

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