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D60 35 spline conversion - problem with lockouts

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Shaggy, Dec 29, 2002.

  1. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> OK, so I installed the outers on my D60 yesterday, but the lockouts have an issue. The lockouts are Warn premiums for 35 spline, these are the ones originally intended for a rear full float conversion so they have the little allen head that you can lock the setting with. The stubs are Spicer 35 spliners.

    So the problem is that the big outer snapring that came with the hubs will not fit in the groove on the ID of the hub. Well, they will fit in the groove, but I can't get them into it with the lockout actually installed into the hub. The lockout gets in the way and won't allow the snapring to get even close to seated. I began to modify one of the lockouts but then decided to wait until the 6th when Warn opens back up again. Is this an expected problem with this conversion? I'm assuming that I will need to get my hands on a set of stock style snaprings, the ones made of simple circular spring steel. The ones that came with the hubs are the goofy flat kind that you kind of spiral into place, if that makes sense. I can take pics if neccessary. Any input on this? Thanks!

    *EDIT*

    OK, I went and took a closer look to try to figure out the problem. The spined part that engages the stub is actually bottoming out on the spindle. How odd is this?! The stub sticks out like 1"+ farther than the collar, the snapring on the end of the shaft is essentially useless, the collar will never even come close to it. It just doesn't seem right. I know everything is installed correctly as far as the spindle/hub/brake backing plate etc, so I have no idea what the deal is here. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif</font color>
     
  2. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I am not too familiar with those hubs but I have heard someone on here say something about removing something from the backside of the hub if you can't get the snap ring installed. I wish I was of more help to you, but maybe if you try a search something will turn up. Why did you buy those locking hubs rather than the intended ones for a front axle? I know the intended ones are more money but I myself would rather have the correct intended part rather than a substitute part.
     
  3. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> When I ordered them I asked for the ones that were intended for the front and was told that I was getting those ones. After all the trouble that I had with Drivetrain Direct I decided to just live with it. The only difference is the allen bolt in the dial, so it's really not a huge deal to me. I'll try doing a search to see if there's something that I need to remove, thanks Scott. </font color>
     
  4. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I understand how you feel, but you should not have to settle for something you did not order. I will give you the spicer part number you are looking for, #62672. If I were you I would call them back and tell them to send you that part number and you will return the others. Just my $.02
     
  5. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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  6. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Scott, these hubs are essentially the same thing, and it really doesn't bother me that there are little allen screws on the dials. It just isn't a big deal to me. I'm going to talk to Warn after they get back from their shutdown, if they'll swap them directly for me then I'll do it, but I'm not going to deal with DD about it.


    Thanks Mudhog, but I know how to install hubs /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif. The problem is that there is not physically enough space for the snapring to fit between the hub and the lockout. It cannot fit between them when it's in the groove, let alone on the outer edge of the hub. If I had the stock snaprings then I would use those, but I sold the stock hubs already and sent the snaprings with them.</font color>
     
  7. 86K5TrailBlazer

    86K5TrailBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    i used these no problems. Just take out the unneeded parts and bolt on. Yeah I used the spiral snap ring works great. I would just run it.
     
  8. 87sm465np208

    87sm465np208 1/2 ton status

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    did you make sure the axle was pushed all the way outward (twords you) i had the problem when replaceing my wheel joints, and putting the lock outs back together. good luck on that. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  9. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    no problem i thought i remembered reading something about them taking a piece out or something thats why i posted that /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  10. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> 86K5 - I would just run them if I could get the damn things installed. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

    87sm...etc - You're thinking of the snapring that goes on the stub shaft, I'm talking about the big one that goes on the inner diameter of the hub.

    Mudhog - no problem, thanks for the effort though. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif That spacer thing makes the hubs easier to engage, but since it is on the cap it has nothing to do with my problem of installing the body. Thanks anyways! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    OK, I went out and looked at these things some more and added what I found to my original post.

    *EDIT* OK, now this is really strange. I went outside again (Yes, at 1:00 AM) and played around some more, tried to install it a few more times with no luck. Took the lockout apart to make sure everything was kosher inside of it, everything looked fine. I then decided to try the hub on the other side. It fit fine. So I tried it on the problematic side, still no go. Had a cigarette and drank some brain lube trying to figure out why the spindle on the driver's side would stick out farther and not allow the hub to seat. I concluded that the ONLY possible cause would be a severely worn inner bearing. I know that hte bearing is fine, I inspected it and the race and both looked to be in A-1 condition. So I decided to try the hub 1 more time before going inside and spending a sleepless night wondering about it. Guess what? It slid right in all the way. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I still have no clue why it wouldn't go in all the way the first 12 times I tried it, but it's really strange that it installed fine only after I deduced that there was no reason for it not to. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif It felt like I had convinced it to cooperate with my mind./forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif Anyways, sorry for another novel here, sorry for the useless post, and thanks for the help. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif</font color>
     
  11. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Shaggy, man dont sweat it, wait till that happens on the trail. It did to me on my D44 when I blew a ujoint and stub. Grim and I got it replaced and it did the same thing. Took it apart, cussed and fussed and pushed and wiggled, and it dropped on another 1/4" and everything worked just fine. You just had something in a bind, or a some grit got in there and bound it up and was not letting it seat. Maybe a bur, or some other tiny thing just to aggrevate you. It happens. Glad it worked out. Did you remember to bend the little end of the new ring out so you can remove it again?

    Depdog
     
  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    You'll never believe this....but I got the #62672 Warns from of all places:




    Dynatrac!

    for $215! .....

    I'm pretty sure that's a good price too.....


    ...it's always a last option if you can't make yours work. If it will help you, you are more than welcome to come over and disassemble one of my front hubs to see what looks different. Maybe that will somehow give you clues or something? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  13. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Got mine from Clemson 4x4 for $181.00 shipped to my door.

    Depdog
     
  14. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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  15. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    This is OBVIOUSLY what fixed it-
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Had a cigarette and drank some brain lube

    [/ QUOTE ] /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  16. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Dep - Yeah, I bent the end of the ring out, but it still looks like they're going to be a bitch to get back out, that ring is really stuffed in there.

    Shawn - THey do still come with the blocker ring, I yanked them out though. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Scooby - That's what I'm saying! I'm tellin ya, I convinced it to work with my MIND! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    I got the hubs for $165, shipping included. Would have been nice to get the other ones, but no big deal.</font color>
     
  17. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    when i installed my d60 35 spline hubs (newer model, intended for d60 fronts) they came with 2 kinds of lock rings... the thin spring-steel coil type and the thick snap-ring type. I tried for hours to get the stupid beefy snap ring ones on there... finally figured that they prolly werent going to fit... so I install the thinner ones instead. It was a tight fit..but they DID fit and seemed to work great.

    j
     
  18. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    may i get part numbers for the shafts and the 35 spline lockouts please.
    thanks
    grant
     
  19. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    i found them. thanks
    Grant
     
  20. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> You're welcome. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif </font color>
     

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