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Damn brakes are going to kill me

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by cp87jimmy, Mar 30, 2000.

  1. cp87jimmy

    cp87jimmy Registered Member

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    Well guys and gals,those smarter than me and any others willing to listen,here we go again.
    Problem: Truck was pulling to the left when I applied the brakes.Not at any other time.
    Solution: Went to parts house and purchased 2 new calipers(1 for each side, duh) and installed.
    New problem: Now my rig is pulling to the right. The more brakes are applied the worse I have to fight it. Could I have got a bad caliper or am I missing something?
    Solution: ??????
    Thanks to all who reply,ie. wrenchheads!

    So addicted it's not EVEN funny!!!!
     
  2. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    Try bleeding your lines again. Are your tires aligned? Brake hoses in good condition? Wheel bearings adjusted properly?
     
  3. cp87jimmy

    cp87jimmy Registered Member

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    Yeah the wheels are aligned, the brake lines are brand new (stainless jobs) and the wheel bearings are adjusted properly. One other note, it seems that the more I drive the worse it gets on a per trip basis.
    By the way Jason I'm from Fresno originally. Been in Texas 15 years now. Thanks for your input, Chris

    So addicted it's not EVEN funny!!!!
     
  4. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like you've eliminated the easy stuff which would point towards your brake proportioning valve. I've heard of them going bad, but haven't heard how they act when they do. Here's what my manual says under brake troubleshooting:

    1)Defective, damaged or oil contaminated brake pads or shoes on one side. Inspect and correct.
    2)Excessive wear of brake shoe or pad material or drum/disc on one side. Inspect and correct.
    3)Loose or disconnected front suspension components. Inspect and tighten.
    4)Defective drum brake or caliper assembly. Remove drum or caliper and inspect for stuck piston or other damage.

    My only other idea is to inspect the rear brakes, but it doesn't sound like they would make that big a difference. On US vehicles, the proportioning is typically 35% for each front wheel and 15% for each rear. With one rear not working, thats only 15%. Is that enough to make you pull real hard??
     
  5. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Mine would pull to one side sometime even when not braking, found out the universal in the right front axel was frozen in one direction and every now and again would go around and throw the wheel to the right. I have found out the hard way...once the front end starts acting up you are well ahead of the game to have it all checked and change anything that even looks close to giving you trouble....

    <font color=green>Eagle86K5[​IMG]

    <font color=red>Only guy I know that can get out of line in a one car funeral
     
  6. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    I thought it was the general consensus of the list that it was that the rotors need turning or replaced when it pulled while breaking. Mine does the same thing and I have changed everything but the rotors and pads,, gonna pull the rotors and have them turned.

    Todd 78/87[​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Alaska Bound
     
  7. collegeK5er

    collegeK5er Registered Member

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    my proportion valve when out, and made the truck pull real hard to the right. changed it and have had no problems since, only problem is that it's 80somethings dollars from the dealer and all those metal brake lines can be a bastard to get lined up. mine was leaking check it to see, sit's right under the radiator. good luck

    Doin' it all on a budget
     
  8. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not an expert on brakes, but how would a proportioning valve affect the side to side performance of the brakes? All of the proportioning valves I have seen are used to adjust either the front or rear line pressures to match the other end (aka. reducing the rear pressure to prevent the rear tires from locking up sooner than the fronts). The hydraulic portions (fluid flow) of front and rear braking systems are completely separate, as required by law, so if a rear brake line gets cut you still have front brakes, and vice versa. I have never seen a system which had adjustability from left to right side or compensated for this (except for ABS equipped vehicles).
    Anyway, to answer the original question........if you are confident the front brake components are working properly, I would check the rear brakes. Sometimes the adjustor gets stuck and does not allow the shoes to self adjust, or the shoes could just be worn out. Also check out the front suspension and steering for any loose or broken parts. The force of braking could cause a loose part to move and cause the pull.
    Good luck
     
  9. Blaize

    Blaize Registered Member

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    Mine was pulling when braking, and here's what I did to correct it: put 35 psi in both front tires (I bought the vehicle, it had 22 psi !) Then I had the steering gear box replaced, and had the front end aligned. Wow ! What a difference it made ! No more brake pulling when stopping !
     
  10. Toad

    Toad 1/2 ton status

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    Mine does the same. When it's cold (under 40 degrees) it breaks straight. The warmer it gets the harder to the right. I haven't tried anything yet but try these ideas. Speed up to 301-40 and apply the brakes hard. Pulls right. Do it again on the same road, same spot and gently apply your parking break along with your normal breaks. Does it go straighter? If so it could be your rear breaks.

    I was also thinking maybe the fluid needs to be completely replaced. It could be old or have moisture in it. You should do this every 4 or 5 years depending on how much you drive.

    There is also a button you have to hold in on the proportioning valve when bleeding the breaks. You'll need a friend to do it or a good hand and a brake bleeder kit.

    Be sure and let us know what you find out because a ton of us have this problem.
     
  11. BlazerBoy

    BlazerBoy 1/2 ton status

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    I have never heard of a button on the proportioning valve? Is this true? I am going to have to go home and look.
     
  12. 87K54WD

    87K54WD 1/2 ton status

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    Have a similar problem here too. Pulls to the right slightly when braking ... worse if braking hard. However, for several months now I haven't really noticed it ... maybe once in a while ... any ideas on that? Maybe I've gotten used to it.
     
  13. 70jimmy

    70jimmy 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I had pulling problem also and I did new tires rims rebalance, brakes, then went for alignment and found out the ball joints on one side were worn. fixed that and much better. Good luck. Just replace everything one part at a time. just kidding.
     
  14. Toad

    Toad 1/2 ton status

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    I wasn't paying attention to the year. I thought it was a 77. I know on 73-76 there is a button on the drivers side of the proportioning valve that you have to hold in when bleeding the brakes. The best way to do it is to have a friend or make a tool that is bent 90 degrees with a hole in one side so you can tighten a bolt into it, and hold it in place. GM makes a special tool for this but I'm not sure how much it is.
     
  15. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    I had to have my system flushed .
     
  16. cp87jimmy

    cp87jimmy Registered Member

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    Thanks to all who replied. Lot's of ideas for me to explore. I can't say enough about this board and the people who participate. It's great to have a place where you can talk to people with similar interests. Or addictions as the case may be. Thanks again Steve for the great forum.
    Thanks again, Chris
    P.S. Anymore suggestions or experiences gladly accepted. I will post results as problem is solved.

    So addicted it's not EVEN funny!!!!
     
  17. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Boy, am I glad to hear I'm not the only one with screwy brakes!! Mine pulls right as well. Plus, until last weekend the left rear would bind occasionally and pulsated HARD under braking. Replaced drums, shoes and hardware (cylinders next month) and half the problem is now solved. BTW, a quick way to see if it's brakes or steering wear is to look at the brake dust buildup on your wheels. Lots of dust on RT front, very little on LT front--it's my brakes!! If the dust buildup looks fairly even then I would suspect steering stuff first. 2 more cents in the pot...

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
    [​IMG] So many ideas, so little money...
     
  18. collegeK5er

    collegeK5er Registered Member

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    on my proportioning valve their is a button maybe but it looks like a small rubber primmer pump. this had a hole in it and that's aparently what caused the left front brakes to fail. brake fliud was leaking more like seaping out but i guess it was enough to loose pressure to the caliper. again i've replaced it and even hard stops steer strait.

    Doin' it all on a budget
     
  19. cp87jimmy

    cp87jimmy Registered Member

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    Well I hate to drag this old thing up again but I need some more info. I think that I've narrowed it down to bad rotors. Seems that they have been turned one too many times. So here's my questions; 1. Should I get the oem rotors or go with an aftermarket upgrade? 2. Is their such a thing as "upgrade" or are they basically the same as the oem? 3. Any particular brand to look for? Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks, Chris


    Thanks, Chris
     
  20. Truckfan2

    Truckfan2 1/2 ton status

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    The OEM should be fine if you're running stock size tyres, if you're not, you may want to upgrade but it does (or did) stop fine with OEM, right? then why not put OEM rotors back on?? Oh, one more thing, did you check all of your steering linkage? If it's wearing out it may just put one way for a bit and then pull when going over bumps... it couldn't hurt to check them anyhow.

    NEVER been stuck... *yet*
     

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